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ooh one thing i seem to have forgotten is a hole to be able to reach the volume pot.
i'd guess that it would still be pretty easy to reach from the opening.

I might do a small one just to be able to reach with a tool from above the case
 
ok so here's what i think might be a final product look like blueprints.
i might be able to start proto production next week :)

Now is the time to point stuff that seem off :)

as for the sides, out of the leftovers, can make small plates to install with game name, or whaterver you like.
I'll see with proto if it look great or dumb.

i Added a hole for volume pot, in hope its always at the same place from a board to another.
i also removed all lexans, i'll try my luck with only aluminum this time. I wanna test if Vinyl can stick correctly to paint.
if yes it'll save me some time :) (there's actually a lot of stuff to take care)

BUT it's such a beautiful result ^^
can't wait to start it up!
 

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Just last minute question before i launch this protoype.

I noticed that some B-Boards are longer some are shorter.
I usually put screws on every holes.. but i wonder if i should really focus on trying to attach the B-board to the inserts.
Should i focus on only

- 6 inserts + screws (like my previous picture up there - green is the PCB) to hook up the A-board only
or
- Put extra inserts for every holes the pcb has just to be sure you can hook the B-Board or not

the simplest choice would be to only use 6 of them, anyway if you change the B-board from time to time ...i guess removing each screws might take some time.
But id like to hear some of your opinions :)
 
I noticed that some B-Boards are longer some are shorter.
Yes we do have a few different type of B-boards, which is why I think you should steer clear of mounting holes for them.
If the A-board is mounted completely/securely the B & C will be quite secure I'm sure of it (many many machines mounted only the A-board to plywood vertically inside the cab).

Might also aid in switching B & C boards to only have the A mounted, not to mention potentially support the DS multi assuming repo B is no larger than stock B.
 
Make mounting holes to accommodate for the different A boards, and have enough height/clearance for the different connectors that can attached to the B or C board, plus DS multi and undamned infinkey setup.
 
Make mounting holes to accommodate for the different A boards, and have enough height/clearance for the different connectors that can attached to the B or C board, plus DS multi and undamned infinkey setup.
you have a picture of those connectors ?

i do have a space for connectors on top for C-board.
but what connection on B-board ?
I noticed that some B-Boards are longer some are shorter.
Yes we do have a few different type of B-boards, which is why I think you should steer clear of mounting holes for them.If the A-board is mounted completely/securely the B & C will be quite secure I'm sure of it (many many machines mounted only the A-board to plywood vertically inside the cab).

Might also aid in switching B & C boards to only have the A mounted, not to mention potentially support the DS multi assuming repo B is no larger than stock B.
I agree, i'm thinking it would be better like that.
I could always adjust current case in the futur to fit all.
i can't make the case too tall since i want the c-board connectors to be easy to reach
 
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on a side note, i'm also working on Double Dragon II :)
if only i could get a clear dragon from double dragon art i would put it just beneath text. (maybe i'll just rework them myself)
i think it looks empty...maybe ill put some extra air vent...it can't be a bad thing.

on front
cyan color is stuff ill put above on inserts :)
the big white rectangle is under the the big II for yellow color

on sides
ill use a plate to put a vynil/sticker of title

case should be blue like my previous astérix (and text will be surrounded by color yellow from the II sticker)
what you think ?
 

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its almost finish !

proto has some minor problem i will correct with next versions.

-Volume hole is 1/4" too close from capcom logo
-case's lid was a bit longer then anticipated...must have made a mistake, its not that bad i can still use it
-Only 3 holes to fix the front plate... i guess ill put a 4th one in the other corner and put a radius...i scratched myself and it hurts x_x
-I'll make the hole for connector on top a bit wider. it works for me but maybe not for everyone so better be sure.

only paint missing !
 

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is there any concern about the pending multi fitting? Regardless this is a sexy beast and I am also excited 8)
 
is there any concern about the pending multi fitting? Regardless this is a sexy beast and I am also excited
Well the multi has integrated the C-board... So that part of the case wouldn't really be needed, assuming the board is the same height as stock B-board.
Beyond that, the multi can have its own layout so long as it remains the same size (no larger) as stock B-boards, this case should still work.

@Darksoft has given us no size information however, so if you are very concerned I'd say wait.
I'm less concerned because I have a few CPS1 games, I'll just attach the multi to another A-board and keep this case for a stock game.
 
Yeah I can't imagine the multi will be larger than the existing B board size.

I can't wait :evil:

I also have a few CPS1 games. While I'd love to have a one stop shop inside this sexy beast, I can use a second board if it ends up not fitting.
 
I worked really hard and faster then the sexy parodius case.
Maybe i'm getting better.

anyway...it sure looks freaking GREAT :D

i'm just always a bit unsure about the vynil stickers....they tend to always have a corner or 2 that peel off a little
or some bubbles... i'm getting better ...but ill go get a tool application help.

what do you think ? only thing i need to do is heat test !
if after a good 3 hours straight i don't see anything bad ...i think that's a win
 

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I think the label would be better slightly smaller than the plate and with rounded edges.
Sloppy mock-up...
W0i5tCb.jpg


Other than this one minor criticism I'm onboard to order/purchase one. :thumbup:
 
I think the label would be better slightly smaller than the plate and with rounded edges.
Sloppy mock-up...
W0i5tCb.jpg


Other than this one minor criticism I'm onboard to order/purchase one. :thumbup:
A friend told me the exact same thing haha

Yes ill do that in next update.

For upcoming orders, you re all free to submit your design ill give measurement in a few hours when im back to work.

Ill do heat test today and will try to get a price out. Might be around 110$-120$ (and having 6 confirmed buyers will cut 5$ of the usual price ill say)

shipping need to be confirmed (but i feel it will be around (25-30$)

id guess but ill check this back
 
Looking good!

I had 2 ideas to suggest

On the top piece, make the top right corner rounded instead of a 90 degree so its the same style as the other corners.

Have you also considered making the top and side pieces reversible? This would allow having 2 sets of logos for the case that you could switch between by flipping them.
 
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