I reached out through the site about a month and a half ago, no response.In that case i’d drop chris (at) martin-jones an email (from his About and Contact page) and ask...
I’ve emailed him before...
I reached out through the site about a month and a half ago, no response.In that case i’d drop chris (at) martin-jones an email (from his About and Contact page) and ask...
I’ve emailed him before...
Does your design use a GROUND plane?From picture of produced PCBs and Gerber viewer I can't see GROUND traces on top and bottom layers and netiher a plane.Perhaps this is why it doesn't work.Increased through hole diameter for resistors and caps. Changed caps to suit poly caps. Fixed R1 silkscreen value. Beefed up copper pads.
I don't have scope or know how to use one.I’ll have to review my schematic - the circuit I assembled worked without any issues.
How does it look on the scope?
Yeah, looking at your work and the schematic has helped me piece together how to read a schematic. Looks fine in my laymen eyes.I've given it a cursory look and can't find any inconsistencies between the schematic and PCB. I'll keep checking though...
Same results with a Sega C2 and CPS2 which are both known to work fine with a Sanwa PFX: 'No Signal' message on screen.Can you test with different games and/or a different monitor?
Schematic is good. I have in hand Hatsune Mike's version which is soldered onto a JAMMA finger/extension board, and it works. How about this, @XianXi, out of curiosity, what vendor did you have your PCB's fabbed with? If the answer is JLC, maybe that is the problem? If so, why don't I make a small order with Osh Park for Frank's and Mike's versions? I'd say XianXi's too but his is designed for SMD, which I have no parts for.Considering @XianXi had the same result with a breadboard, I would suspect the schematic. Might be worth reaching out to some other video guru to double check it.
Ahh, you're right. XianXi mentioned that he had it working with breadboard. Nevermind then.Schematic is good.