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Grab a ceramic or monolithic, non polarised.

You grabbed the same for the other caps? They're also bi-polar.
 
Ah you posted a digikey cart.

Poly caps should be fine, although I designed the pcb for ceramics.
 
Don't fret, poly caps are better and will fit fine. They have a 2.5mm width and 5mm pitch, which is exactly what the pcb utilises. :)
 
Cool. I updated the Digikey parts list. Added the pins needed for the header. And added the 100nF decoupling cap. Should be complete now. Here is the link:

EDIT: Link to cart removed.
 
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Looks good to me.

If you like I can alter the PCB to suit the rectangular poly caps.

Can't wait to see a pic of it all assembled.
 
Might be a tight fit, but it should fit the poly caps. I can always offset them a bit as they go in. Will make it work. Can't wait to get this going myself and will definitely keep you posted.
 
I took my Taito F3 to 300wins house, plugged it in, and it synced right up without the Sync Pulse Generator. So there must be variations with the Sanwa PFX within the same version chassis (KW0606A). Weird. I have three other Sanwa PFX monitors. Will see if they have the same issues on them with the Taito F3.

F3300WinsPFX.jpg


One a side note, the PCB's I ordered from Osh Park go to fab on 5/1. So another 2 or 3 weeks before I get the PCB going. Parts ordered from Digikey should be here this weekend.
 
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Good work. 2-3 weeks is such a long wait!
 
I tried making this before and could never get it to work. I’m not sure what’s wrong but I followed the schematic to the T. I’m not sure if it’s because I used SMD components but I have a bunch of PCBs sitting here.
 
Will let you know in a couple of weeks how it goes with Frank's through-hole PCB design. Although, SMD shouldn't matter. What does your PCB design look like @XianXi? Would you mind posting it?
 
Will let you know in a couple of weeks how it goes with Frank's through-hole PCB design. Although, SMD shouldn't matter. What does your PCB design look like @XianXi? Would you mind posting it?
Ya, I’m confused, built it on a breadboard and worked fine with DIP but designed the PCBs with SMD as I wanted it to be an add on for the Atlas. Was gonna make it open hardware too for those that DIY.

Here’s v1.0, fixed a few routing issues on the next one, same outcome :(
 

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Looks solid (nice hand soldering too). What is the switch designed to do? Split CSync to separate H and V Sync? Or bypasses the sync pulse regeneration entirely?

In any case, will let you know in a few weeks how it goes with Frank's design with my F3. Might get a JAMMA adapter for my Phoenix board too. Got the parts from Digikey today. Just waiting for Osh Park to send me the PCB's now.
 
Looks solid (nice hand soldering too). What is the switch designed to do? Split CSync to separate H and V Sync? Or bypasses the sync pulse regeneration entirely?

In any case, will let you know in a few weeks how it goes with Frank's design with my F3. Might get a JAMMA adapter for my Phoenix board too. Got the parts from Digikey today. Just waiting for Osh Park to send me the PCB's now.
Correct, switch is to bypass the circuit as I’m assuming it might be like how some PCBs might not like it while others do.
 
Frank’s board looks better than the one I’ve got, but here’s a pic of my janky one.
 

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