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JoeAwesome

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Hi, everyone.

The intent of this thread is to hopefully show how to "deconvert" a European NAOMI Universal Cabinet (hereafter referred to as "Euro NUC") to a Japanese/US version ("JPN NUC"). There may be other cabinets in a similar situation, such as 18 Wheeler stand-up NUCs. Mine came from someone who imported a converted cabinet at one point, and likely used a step-up transformer or he was living somewhere to use as is with the higher voltage. I assume this could apply to a converted New Net City ("NNC") as well.

The Euro NUC is typically converted from a JPN NUC with an additional step-down transformer from 100-120v to 230v, and has a CEE 7 power cable to plug into the inlet instead of a NECA or JIS power cable (standard in US or JPN, respectively).

X5ZuFrB.jpg


(CEE 7 power cable on left; NECA power cable on right)


The transformer plugs into Conn. BD relay board, which powers the monitor and PSU through AMP UP connections. The transformer also plugs directly to the sound amp for the 17v needed to power that.

ZMEsO30.jpg



The simple answer to this process is "remove the transformer," however, it's not as straightforward as that. Additional rewiring is needed, as well as a separate audio amp transformer. I want this to look clean, too, so I'll avoid hacking any of the existing wires, and instead use what's there.

Step 1: Removing the step-down transformer
-Unscrew the transformer from board
-Move grounds connected to hatch door and on transformer
-Remove the Conn. BD board from wooden board

d3xRYCp.jpg


You'll be left with the transformer and its wires removed from the cabinet as shown. You may choose to leave the wooden board in the cabinet, and I may likely put it back. You'll see why in the next post.
 
Step 2: Powering on cab and monitor (in progress)

In my plans I use the male Mate and Lok connection (lower left in black) with the Conn. BD relay board (upper right), and make a custom cable for it

hRdkZ3L.jpg

The cable is AWG20 with a female Mate and Lok connection on one end (with female pins) to 7 pin JST VH:

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With this is place, find a NECA power cable with ground (I just pulled a cable to power a desktop from my pile).
 
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Step 3: Powering on sound amp (in progress)

Find a suitable sound amp transformer:

uC3Tg4m.jpg


The amp transformer connects directly to the amp, removing the cable that original plugged into the step-down transformer.

0bdKo7V.jpg



-Next step is the wiring to plug from sound amp transformer to the Conn. BD relay board through the AMP UP connections (needed)


Note: The green ground cable will need to be connected to ground on the cab. The nearest spot is under the sound amp itself.
VnBQesm.jpg

The finished product should have the sound amp transformer behind the sound amp when opening the back hatch (picture to be taken).
 
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Hi! :)

What is the correspondence of the two-color cables Yellow and Black with that of the Japanese version White and black Phase & Neutral ?( :?:

Thanks ;) .


uC3Tg4m.jpg


dsc03866.jpg
 
Whoops. Let this go by. Here’s the final step to the conversion process. I wired the audio amp with AMP UP connectors I had to the Comm. Board, white with blue, black with pink, and voila, sound. Big thanks to @acblunden2 again for the amp, itself, and @Lemony Vengeance for the original wiring help.

pOZWMqd.jpg
 
Looks very stock to me, step-up etc installed by Sega UK, i.e not a 'conversion' to begin with - nitpicking yes :P

If it's a 'true' European NUC, the CRT should be 31K only, and if you're lucky it has the Toshiba tube.

Fantastic cab btw, has gotten me into a lot of trouble :)
 
Looks very stock to me, step-up etc installed by Sega UK, i.e not a 'conversion' to begin with - nitpicking yes :P

If it's a 'true' European NUC, the CRT should be 31K only, and if you're lucky it has the Toshiba tube.

Fantastic cab btw, has gotten me into a lot of trouble :)
Absolutely, it looked very stock to me, too. The quotes weren't meant to suggest this was a hack from Sega, but more tongue-in-cheek of making the cabinet compatible in the US by rewiring it.

It is also very much a NUC, with a 31Khz only monitor. No Toshiba, though, but I can't complain.

It's a great cab. I'm thankful it came in great shape to begin with, so very little to do to it- CP, minor wiring, TLC. Everything else I've just lived with, mostly to spend time playing it :thumbsup:

Edit: I also want to thank @nem for the Mate-and-Lok wiring. Thanks for the help!

Double edit: The Jammafier is certainly on my radar after I'm done with exhausting the NAOMI/TTX2/PS3 setups :thumbup:
 

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