Taito Vewlix monitor replaced with LG 1080P monitor

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    • jassin000 wrote:

      I thought @Derick2k had measured the lag of the Sanwa Vewlix LCD next to the New New (aka Diamond Black) LCD.
      I can't seem to find that post atm so maybe he'll pop in and repost the results.
      I used my Leo Bodnar tester on my Diamond Orange monitor, it had 28ms on the middle bar with the dvi input, I did not have a hdmi to vga converter but I did try my gaming pc on the vga input with a active displayport to vga adapter, it felt the same as the dvi input.

      I do know that there are many excellent 32 inch monitors with much lower lag than all the vewlix monitor variations.

      I am currently working on a project to remove the diamond monitor casing and install a 1440p 144hz gsync VA lg monitor which has 9.6ms on the middle bar or the 4k 60hz lg ul950 which has the same 9.6ms on the middle bar per rtings.com reviews.

      What are everyone’s thoughts on a glossy monitor versus matte for the Vewlix? The lg ul950 I can remove the anti glare, the 1440 144hz gsync lg I cannot remove the anti glare.

      I am getting a replacement glass that is the same size but clear and not frosted like the oem Vewlix.

      I will make sure to post tutorial and pics. Starting this project tomorrow :)
    • ACH1LL3US wrote:

      I used my Leo Bodnar tester on my Diamond Orange monitor, it had 28ms on the middle bar with the dvi input
      Damn. That's actually pretty ass. Why are they using such laggy panels in commercial arcade cabs, especially with what they charge for them?

      I have a Time Sleuth now for testing this stuff. Lag is evil and needs to be held at bay with the proper tools! :D
    • Aurich wrote:

      Damn. That's actually pretty ass. Why are they using such laggy panels in commercial arcade cabs
      I wish I had that derick image, I'm tempted to say the classic Sanwa LCD STILL has less lag then the new 1080p panels.
      I'm not saying it isn't a worthy upgrade as everything else about the Sanwa sucks, but it IS fast.
      Darksoft: CPS3, CPS2, F3, MVS
      RGB: RECO v2, HAS v3
      invzim: Jammafier v1.6b
      XianXi: JNX Raiden, SC Taito Classic, SC Sega System 16/24
      Frank_fjs: JAMMA Extender (Special Edition)
    • jassin000 wrote:

      Thank you so much for this!
      The first of what I consider to actually be a proper Vewlix LCD replacement tutorial (because the screen isn't taped inside the Vewlix but properly mounted inside its enclosure).
      I think it's a cool mod so don't take this the wrong way, but if i read it correctly it's being held in place by foam blocks. I'm not sure that qualifies as a "proper" mounting. But it's functional (so were the earlier tape and wooden blocks/clamps versions i saw.
    • Yea good point @rae its still not 100% mounted to my liking/properly, but at least we've got the panel inside the fucking enclosure now. ;)
      Also wooden blocks are ghetto, I consider proper to be a custom sized/cut piece of sheet metal and screws/bolts locking it in place.
      Darksoft: CPS3, CPS2, F3, MVS
      RGB: RECO v2, HAS v3
      invzim: Jammafier v1.6b
      XianXi: JNX Raiden, SC Taito Classic, SC Sega System 16/24
      Frank_fjs: JAMMA Extender (Special Edition)
    • I spent some time with the monitor.

      I went the lazy way to secure the video board on the chassis. Board isn't hanging in mid-air anymore.


      I put more foams inside the frame. I plan on coming up with an engineering solution instead of a garage solution but for now it is good enough :)




      Screen is now properly lined up :)



      What is the final weight? 41.6lb


      And yes, I realized the fan panel should be on the other way.

    • Hadouken Arcade wrote:

      I spent some time with the monitor.

      I went the lazy way to secure the video board on the chassis. Board isn't hanging in mid-air anymore.


      I put more foams inside the frame. I plan on coming up with an engineering solution instead of a garage solution but for now it is good enough :)




      Screen is now properly lined up :)



      What is the final weight? 41.6lb


      And yes, I realized the fan panel should be on the other way.


      These pics are exactly what I need, thank you! I need to use a much harder foam to secure mine. However, on mine, the remote pcb is extremely short, I wonder what I’d need for an extension.

      Turns out my tft had some corrosion and cap leakage on its boards so it was on its way out.
    • radiantsvgun wrote:

      So I tried this on ami this weekend. I was able to get it in, but no matter what the lcd shifts on the inside. That seems to be the hardest part, but the screen is pretty nice. It’s worthwhile to give it a try.
      I took apart my AMI L and it looks nothing like the pics in this post. I cant think of way of replacing with out a lot of fuckery. @radiantsvgun does yours look like mine? The LG is just loose in there unless I build a frame around it perfectly so that big metal back can slide in between that frame I make and the outside metal frame. That also doesnt factor doing something to keep it secure from pushing back.

    • Coyo5050 wrote:

      radiantsvgun wrote:

      So I tried this on ami this weekend. I was able to get it in, but no matter what the lcd shifts on the inside. That seems to be the hardest part, but the screen is pretty nice. It’s worthwhile to give it a try.
      I took apart my AMI L and it looks nothing like the pics in this post. I cant think of way of replacing with out a lot of fuckery. @radiantsvgun does yours look like mine? The LG is just loose in there unless I build a frame around it perfectly so that big metal back can slide in between that frame I make and the outside metal frame. That also doesnt factor doing something to keep it secure from pushing back.

      Yes, thats what mine looks like and yes, its a lot of fuckery. I had some left over insulation that I used to cover the gaps to make it push back.

      Edit: here is how mine looks: imgur.com/a/BqkZNcJ

      @Hadouken Arcade can you advise which foam you used? If I had some harder foam I could better secure the monitor from shifting.

      The post was edited 1 time, last by radiantsvgun ().

    • Coyo5050 wrote:

      You just stuff the whole thing with foam? I think I am going to have to make a frame out of wood. Did you use the glass or use the monitor without?

      What are people using for the tape between the monitor and the glass?
      I used mounting tape, works great. I had stuffed some foam in certain places so it wouldn’t move. It’s got enough cushion to where it doesn’t stress anything, but it won’t stop the monitor from shifting left and right due to not being firm enough.

      One thing i will say is hook a pc up to it and make adjustments before you put it in.
    • I came up with a solution where I no longer have to disassemble a monitor. You get to keep your warranty :)



      This is my first prototype and just finished fit-checking. This will solve the possibility of monitor shifting inside the case. No longer have to jam in foams in the side to keep the monitor in center. I've used the VESA screw holes to attach the bracket. I kept the design simple as possible to maintain low cost for now since fit-check was mainly my priority.




      Fit-checking. Will use a pattern to verify the position of the monitor later.



      Don't mind the gap on the side. No side cover frame was installed at this moment.




      One thing to fix in my design is to pull down the monitor for ~4mm.




      Overall I'm happy with the design. I was so frustrated with Vewlix stock monitor compatibility because it was so intermittent with PS4. This bracket came in just in time. There are so many variant monitor design Taito made. For now, this design is only specific to F. I don't have much info regarding different Vewlix monitor but shouldn't be so hard to implement it if it has similar design.
    • Hadouken Arcade wrote:

      This is my first prototype and just finished fit-checking.
      Very cool! How are you making it?

      My first Vewlixes are coming next month, I was planning on poking around at this problem some myself. My thinking, without having opened up anything to see it for myself, was to use 3D printed spacers to hold everything properly, rather than some kind of foam stuffing etc.
    • It's a steel sheet. I sent out to have it manufactured. I thought of using a 3d printer but concluded I would need a sturdier material. Off the shelf monitors these days are thin and don't have much stud points. This makes it harder to come up with a solution. You'll first have to check your Vewlix monitor part number. My L came with a full hd model. Don't know if the operator replaced it or some later model L are manufactured with full hd monitor.