nismopunch
Professional
Ughhh much excite for this!! @jassin000 please do the honors and continue to share 
- Thread starter Hadouken Arcade
- Start date
Sorry for the rushed pictures. But I also received the bracket and I’m currently test fitting it in my newly acquired Vewlix VS I got recently from David @GameSaru @Cereth.
I haven’t even had a chance to unpack the VS but as soon as I received the bracket I’m kicking it into high gear!
First impressions of the bracket... it’s very high quality produced aluminum frame. The bends and cuts look perfect and seems to have enough adjustability for some fine tuning.
I’ll be working on this throughout the weekend but I need to clean out the VS cabinet first. Here’s some pictures in the meantime.
Awesome work @Hadouken Arcade!!
**Note, picture below are of the Stock LCD, before the upgrade. Pictures will follow in the upcoming days.**
I haven’t even had a chance to unpack the VS but as soon as I received the bracket I’m kicking it into high gear!
First impressions of the bracket... it’s very high quality produced aluminum frame. The bends and cuts look perfect and seems to have enough adjustability for some fine tuning.
I’ll be working on this throughout the weekend but I need to clean out the VS cabinet first. Here’s some pictures in the meantime.
Awesome work @Hadouken Arcade!!
**Note, picture below are of the Stock LCD, before the upgrade. Pictures will follow in the upcoming days.**
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J
jassin000
Lets talk about screw size differences.
On the left here is the original, on the right the replacement supplied with the bracket.
I'm using the counter sync kind because I'm also using the recommended counter sync bit.
On that note... Drill/sync holes...
A little backside sanding to remove nasty/sharp metal burrs.
Ok thats it/basically all the "prep" work you need to do on the IPS Alpha Tech (Diamond White) LCD/frame.
AKA guts removed, 6 holes drilled out/enlarged with backside sanding recommended.
Alright here we are!
But these pics my fellow arcade fans also come with a near-miss grim reminder (not related to the bracket in anyway it just happened so I wanted to mention it).
Notice how I'm using that "cheap" China made JAMMA extender above?
Right, so its because I'm using my @Frank_fjs Extender in my other cab right now (this one HAD been down)...
Anyways, you know how you shouldn't plug a JAMMA key in backwards? I did!
Only for a few seconds, I was like "hmmm Y you no bootie?" I see the power flowing on the Jammifier screen...
Then I'm like "oh fuck nooooooo!" and shut it down immediately!
I did an input test from the service menu, and everything appears to be working as normal (no kicks hooked up at the moment however)...
I really hope this 5v/12v stress won't lead to latent device failure (or somehow have damaged 4/5/6).
Should have used a cheaper PCB for testing (NOT my DS CPS2) and paid better attention knowing I was using that China made shit.
What do you think about my situation?
It couldn't have been on for more than 5secs and player 1/2 inputs register as normal in the test menu.
Did I create a time bomb of failure (I'm gunna cry if so, I love that CPS2 multi)?
Let it run normally for over an hour and checked back, still registering inputs correctly.
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nismopunch
Professional
dang mistakes happen but that hurts, hopefully you caught it quick enough but interested to see feedback
J
jassin000
Yea its still running just fine, so all I can do is wait/hope it was caught quickly enough that it caused no harm.
I do need to connect kicks just to verify buttons 4/5/6 are also fine (I've only tested P1/2 with buttons1/2/3 all currently register in test menu).
Sorry to derail the thread in this way... I felt it was important to talk about my mistake soon as it happened.
Over all a happy day (monitor installed/working very well) just some expensive PCB peril (at least I could just replace the A-board if it IS fucked).
Another story in support of ALWAYS KEY YOUR JAMMA HARNESSES.
Or I guess... This is why you own/keep a Pitfighter around (testing).
I do need to connect kicks just to verify buttons 4/5/6 are also fine (I've only tested P1/2 with buttons1/2/3 all currently register in test menu).
Sorry to derail the thread in this way... I felt it was important to talk about my mistake soon as it happened.
Over all a happy day (monitor installed/working very well) just some expensive PCB peril (at least I could just replace the A-board if it IS fucked).
Another story in support of ALWAYS KEY YOUR JAMMA HARNESSES.
Or I guess... This is why you own/keep a Pitfighter around (testing).
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thegreathopper
Professional
I think you do not need to worry, it’s working so will be fine.
Same. I think you pulled it in time @jassin000.
It wouldn't hurt to get one of these:
BLEE Classical Arcade Video Game 60 in 1 PCB Jamma Board
For $39 and Prime shipping you get a nice cheap board for testing. It supports Jamma and VGA, you can flip the screen, and theyre easily obtained if it gets fried. So next time...
J
jassin000
For now everything is fine, the monitor looks amazing of course.
I would like to do more glory shots, but the glare in the day from the screen is a real shot spoiler/a mirror.
Maybe tonight I'll get some up, my replacement fans are coming this weekend so I can finally finish the body.
I would like to do more glory shots, but the glare in the day from the screen is a real shot spoiler/a mirror.
Maybe tonight I'll get some up, my replacement fans are coming this weekend so I can finally finish the body.
We still don't know how are we going to deal with the monitor settings after it's installed in the cab.
One time set up and leave it at that? How you turn it on? If it selfs deconfigures are we going to dismantle the whole thing again just change a setting? I wish at least these premium monitors came with a little remote control to change settings quickly. Most of on board controls are crap anyway.
One time set up and leave it at that? How you turn it on? If it selfs deconfigures are we going to dismantle the whole thing again just change a setting? I wish at least these premium monitors came with a little remote control to change settings quickly. Most of on board controls are crap anyway.
J
jassin000
Yes, ONE TIME and leave it!
IF you left the monitor on and cut the power, when you restore power it just turns back on.
Only settings you need are color/brightness and HDMI1, just like before if you set it the monitor stays that way.
You won't be setting other inputs, because it hasn't really got any you can use... DP and HDMI only (and DP wouldn't work with HDMI adapter).
You won't be adjusting horizontal/vert size, because modern devices output modern resolutions and classic devices are controlled via OSSC settings not the monitor.
Oh BTW, OSSC auto turns back on and will auto goto AV1 with your settings restored if you use the options in settings menu+save it to SD card.
Its perfect for us arcade guys because it keeps the entire powerup/powerdown of the cab controlled from its normal "on/off" button (and not a bunch of independent switches to boot up).
LCD's PSU is fine with 100v of the internal VLX, same for OSSC's PSU (remember I MUST use a 100v stepdown because I have original Wei Ya JVS PSUs).
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The bracket is designed so that the OSD controls are reachable with the suggested LG monitor. Using the same monitor in a Lindbergh, we just opened up the monitor, chopped the OSD cable and extended it into the front of the cab. That's an option
Hadouken Arcade
Professional
Previously I got a quote for the the spacer sheet but the price was stupidly expensive and they only had in inches instead of mm so I wasn't so happy with the availability and price already. So I turned to 3d printing. It's now a single 5mm spacer sheet instead of five 1mm sheets. For the first batch only, I'm moving forward with this solution.
Every parts are here now. I'm processing the parts and getting ready to receive orders. I expect website will be open this weekend. I'll post in the thread. There are 20 sets available but more to come.
I finished up a manual for now for P32L050 (Click) I realized there were some parts that weren't clear and not beginner friendly. More work to be done but should get easier.
Every parts are here now. I'm processing the parts and getting ready to receive orders. I expect website will be open this weekend. I'll post in the thread. There are 20 sets available but more to come.
I finished up a manual for now for P32L050 (Click) I realized there were some parts that weren't clear and not beginner friendly. More work to be done but should get easier.
I was lucky enough to get a prototype unit from @Hadouken Arcade for my Vewlix FC. Following @jassin000's lead, I opted for the same LG32" with freesync, so I could have the option to get my JAMMA on. Here are some of my thoughts about the product and installation, if you're interested in what it was like to install on an FC. The short review is that if you want a new/better monitor for your FC, this bracket is going to make you very happy.
The bracket's build quality is excellent, light and strong. The fit is snug, and installation is not difficult. The only caveat here is that aluminum is soft, so when you're screwing the old frame to the bracket you should do your best to line it up carefully and make sure you're catching the threading. For the FC this meant having to lift the bracket a little bit while screwing it in. Don't force it, aluminum can strip or warp much more easily than steel.
At first, I mounted the bracket to the monitor's case, and didn't modify the bracket at all even though the inputs were partially obstructed. After a test fit, I decided to cut one prong off the bracket, so my power & hdmi slots were more accessible. I also removed the back plastic case from the monitor and mounted the bracket directly to it that way. I also spliced in an extension cord for the OSD button, so I can route that to the service panel. I know @Derick2k was looking to do that, so I'm happy to confirm it wasn't hard at all. I do intend to redo the OSD cable (and mab somehow, but I need to source the connectors and figure out the pinout. Any help here is appreciated!
The original monitor's glass was electric-taped on to the monitor itself. When trying to install it in the new frame, it kept dropping too low. I probably should have taped it on to the new monitor, but it was late and I wasn't thinking so I just used some very stiff cardboard I had to lift it a few cm. I will probably redo that, but it worked.
Final product is awesome. In fact the biggest problem I had is that while you're half-disassembled you will feel a strong urge to tear the whole thing down, clean everything, replace worn parts, etc. and I'd bet a lot of you will end up doing more work than just installing the monitor. I had never cleaned my FC, it looked clean when I got it, but boy was it filthy. If you haven't given yours a bath, just lift up the control panel, unscrew those 5 screws, and remove your cp. There's a little gap in there that I'm positive is full of nasty nicotine/dust fibers. So when you install this, just commit to stripping and cleaning your whole cab! I also took the opportunity to swap out the crap wei-ya psu for a better one, guide care of @twistedsymphony
Associated photos here, though I was just taking a few snaps here and there: https://imgur.com/a/EJ3tPzY
Awesome stuff @ekorz thanks for sharing the process, will definitely help with installs.
Were there any reflections issues, etc between the new monitor and that front glass?? I guess you also gonna make sure that both the monitor and the front glass are super clean, and I guess you gonna taape all the way around so dust doesnt get in there?? Need to fine what that tape is, its not electrical tape since it electrical shrinks over time and the glue dies a bit. Im so glad I held off on selling my old monitors, gonna reuse those instead of tearing apart the new taito ones.
@Hadouken Arcade Any chance to get a quote to make these out stainless steel??
Were there any reflections issues, etc between the new monitor and that front glass?? I guess you also gonna make sure that both the monitor and the front glass are super clean, and I guess you gonna taape all the way around so dust doesnt get in there?? Need to fine what that tape is, its not electrical tape since it electrical shrinks over time and the glue dies a bit. Im so glad I held off on selling my old monitors, gonna reuse those instead of tearing apart the new taito ones.
@Hadouken Arcade Any chance to get a quote to make these out stainless steel??
J
jassin000
I peeled the anti-glare coating off my original glass, it was hazed anyway due to the original op using some harsh chemical cleaner or something.
Its just regular old clear glass with a film applied to the surface.
With out it/clear glass, yes naturally you get some reflect back but its really not all that bad.
Def better without the hazed antiglar then with it.
Thanks J, will probably have to do that then, specially since I m using the old monitors.
Well, if I were to do that I would go for that museum art quality glass. Anti reflective, low iron, 99% light transmission, etc.. not just regular glass
