I got my first Woody

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    • Oh, and I got so busy talking about cabs stuff I almost forgot...
      Welcome to the exciting world of cab ownership/the home arcade operator lifestyle! :thumbsup:
      Darksoft: CPS3, CPS2, F3, MVS
      RGB: RECO v2, HAS v3
      invzim: Jammafier v1.6b
      XianXi: JNX Raiden, SC Taito Classic, SC Sega System 16/24
      Frank_fjs: JAMMA Extender (Special Edition)
    • That Zenith K7000A man, I tell you. Produces one fine image. And I love the tube curve on the K7000's in general. I would think that you should get your color levels, black levels, and contrast dialed in. Then stop there. I am hesitant to tell you more about tweaking your monitor. Because if you hear how the rest of us graduate level arcade snobs see things, you are going to hate your arcade experience.

      The great thing about the CPS2 is that its test menu is the reference that most use for calibrating arcade monitors. To the left of the JAMMA connector are 3 buttons. If the buttons are still there, press the one 3rd one to access the test menu. If it is not there (broken off), in that style cab that you have, above the coinbox is usually the Service and Test menu buttons. Go behind the coin mech and see if you see such buttons and press the TEST menu button (might be a volume dial in there too). Go into the CRT adjustments and start adjusting your color levels, black levels, contrast. Then go into the grid pattern and adjust your alignment and geometry. Then STOP. Don't go any further especially if you are happy with what you see. If not, then tell us what you see that is bothering you and show some pictures of it. The next adjustments (convergence) are dangerous.

      Your K7000 chassis has all the adjustments on the back of the chassis. There is no remote board from what I can tell. K7000 chassis are often found like that, some have remote boards. Some do not. Different game PCB's have different levels. So switching PCB's often requires some adjustments to sync/colors/geometry/alignment/etc. No need to change out the isolation transformer. Reflow the hell out of all the solder points on that chassis since you plan on doing a recap anyway, particularly around the flyback and large resistors. Remember, if that flyback ever craps out. Darn near impossible to find a replacement. Look for darkened areas on that chassis, particularly around the resistors. These things often burn out. You'll want to replace those too. The K7000 is a highly studied chassis and there are lots of parts available for it. You'll want to preservice that chassis functionality for as long as you can with some maintenance. If it ever dies on you, the Wells Gardener K7000 version is an exact drop in replacement. But in my experience, the Zenith K7000A produces one of the finest 15khz images I've ever seen.
    • acblunden2 wrote:

      Because if you hear how the rest of us graduate level arcade snobs see things, you are going to hate your arcade experience.
      Its true, once you start to see the imperfections in the image you can't unsee them.
      For me it became a never ending battle to have perfect geometry, convergence and trying to ignore the ever present "insert credit" burn-in.

      I pulled my tube constantly, recapped my chassis, got a NOS neckboard... Nothing pleased me, I always noticed some minor flaw.
      I just couldn't enjoy my games, I was in tech/service mode whenever the cab was on.

      I've learn a perfectionist like me simply can't own a CRT period, so I ban them from my living space (yes ban, CRTs are not allowed in my house under any circumstances).
      It didn't help that I necked (destroyed) a Nanao 2930 tube (my Blast City monitor) when transporting it to my work area. *bump* *hissssss* Game over! Done!
      Darksoft: CPS3, CPS2, F3, MVS
      RGB: RECO v2, HAS v3
      invzim: Jammafier v1.6b
      XianXi: JNX Raiden, SC Taito Classic, SC Sega System 16/24
      Frank_fjs: JAMMA Extender (Special Edition)

      The post was edited 3 times, last by jassin000 ().

    • jassin000 wrote:

      Oh, and I got so busy talking about cabs stuff I almost forgot...
      Welcome to the exciting world of cab ownership/the home arcade operator lifestyle! :thumbsup:

      The expensive lifestyle

      Thank you all for your help thus far!

      Less apprehensive to throw money at it now that I know it all works. Ordering parts now. Still haven't found a suitable power supply. I want one that is the same form factor (ATX) as the one I have now so I can just swap it out. Any links?

      And while I wait on the cap kits and what not, some misc stuff I could do if you guys have any recommendations..

      1. The marquee bottom holding bracket is missing, seems it was just electrical tape holding up the plexi. Is there a suitable place to find a replacement? Or perhaps some other material I can fashion into a bracket? It's about 25-26 inches long.

      2. The sound I noticed was only coming out of one speaker! I see that one of the speaker drivers isn't even connected. Would the output from the Jamma on a cps2 board supply stereo audio to the drivers? Seems they are wired in a piggyback fashion. Or should I somehow use the RCA jacks on the CPS2 board and connect those to the drivers?

      3. I've been IPA cotton swapping these boards for hours now, and the blackness is truly terrifying. Is there a faster and safe method to clean these boards?

      4. Anywhere I can get replica artwork for the marquee and control artwork? The ones I have are brittle and sunfaded yellow as you can see.

      5. How can I repair the nicks, dents, dings, scratches on the wood parts and sides? Some videos say to use bondo, sand it, then paint it. This is my first and only cab, so I wanna make it look purdy. Any recommendations on paint type?
    • Kavas wrote:

      1. The marquee bottom holding bracket is missing, seems it was just electrical tape holding up the plexi. Is there a suitable place to find a replacement? Or perhaps some other material I can fashion into a bracket? It's about 25-26 inches long.

      2. The sound I noticed was only coming out of one speaker! I see that one of the speaker drivers isn't even connected. Would the output from the Jamma on a cps2 board supply stereo audio to the drivers? Seems they are wired in a piggyback fashion. Or should I somehow use the RCA jacks on the CPS2 board and connect those to the drivers?

      3. I've been IPA cotton swapping these boards for hours now, and the blackness is truly terrifying. Is there a faster and safe method to clean these boards?

      4. Anywhere I can get replica artwork for the marquee and control artwork? The ones I have are brittle and sunfaded yellow as you can see.

      5. How can I repair the nicks, dents, dings, scratches on the wood parts and sides? Some videos say to use bondo, sand it, then paint it. This is my first and only cab, so I wanna make it look purdy. Any recommendations on paint type?
      1) These often need to be cut down to size, unless your cab is 24" wide... If larger than 24" try this one.
      2) The CPS2 can output stereo but only via the RCA jacks, the JAMMA edge is mono (because your cab is wired for JAMMA edge only I'm sure that's why the other speaker was disabled).
      3) You can actually wash (yea with soap and water) arcade PCBs, but it comes with a huge set of precautions/rules (too many to describe here, but look into it if your interested).
      4) I've used these guys before, I was pretty happy with the reproduction quality (but be aware others have expressed disappointment in the quality).
      5) Bondo yes!

      Bondo is amazing stuff!
      I turned this...


      Into this (white is primer, pink is Bondo)...


      Finally into this...


      I rebuilt this entire edge using nothing but Bondo, can you see the line where I cut away the rotten wood?
      Darksoft: CPS3, CPS2, F3, MVS
      RGB: RECO v2, HAS v3
      invzim: Jammafier v1.6b
      XianXi: JNX Raiden, SC Taito Classic, SC Sega System 16/24
      Frank_fjs: JAMMA Extender (Special Edition)

      The post was edited 6 times, last by jassin000 ().

    • What's wrong with your power supply now? If it is form factor, get a new one that suits your needs. If it fits in fine now and is having some issues with voltages, I suggest recapping it.

      With that said, you can order this cap kit directly from Mouser for the K7000. Don't worry about the OOS 560uF cap. That is the filter cap and these don't tend to go bad. It is a good idea to familiarize yourself with Mouser (or Digikey which I prefer) if you go further in this hobby. Get used to the way how their commerce site work.

      But as you buy this cap kit, might as well buy new caps for your power supply. The problem is that there is no cap kit for power supplies that typically come with these cabs. You'll have to open up your power supply, remove the caps that are in there, catalog them, and order the corresponding caps from Mouser. You will want Nichicon caps. Keep the capacitance the same but you can go higher for voltage ratings, but not lower. Get a pair of digital calipers from Harbor Freight for $10 to help you measure out cap sizes.
    • So I took the screen out, did the simple green wash method using distilled water and did a full recap.



      It came out looking very clean. Before I put it back in I want to repaint the cabinet. I have watched dozens of videos. Read several forum threads. And I still cannot come to a way to go about it. I know jassin recommended bondo, but after further inspection, it doesn't seem like it may be necessary. There are no cracked off edges. The scuffs and dings seem minor. I went to Home Depot and asked around and the paint guy recommended I use Wood Filler.





      Above are probably the most egregious parts on an otherwise good body. You can see there is some texture, and I am not quite sure if the black is paint on MDF or if it is some kinda vinyl or other material.

      The HD guy said I could skip the primer and just use an enamel semi-gloss black paint ontop of what I already have because I am "painting black on black". I want the kind of finish that I have seen where people end up using the "wet sanding" method using soapy water and a very fine 2000 grit sanding for that smooth as glass like finish. I just don't know if it is wise to skip the primer part and go strait into painting/sanding. I have never painted wood like this or atleast with the intention of a very smooth finish. I have only ever done the textured drywall painting.

      They recommend I use the 6 inch foam roller for the paint. My father recommended I use a sprayer to apply the paint..

      Most of the videos I see are from a bare MDF/Wood with primer/paint combo. I am starting with some somewhat smooth black surface. I need directions.

      ;(

      The post was edited 1 time, last by Kavas ().

    • Looks like it was rolled over with black paint. There is probably either the laminate or vinyl wrap still under there. I would use Citristrip to get that paint off first. Paint/roll a layer of that stuff on and then cover it with cheap plastic drop cloth. Let it do its magic for about 20 minutes and hopefully it paint will just peel off. You better hope the guy used cheap paint. If it is good oil-based paint, you have to use 100% pure acetone (nail polish remover). If there is laminate behind the pain, strip down to just the laminate. If there is vinyl, remove the vinyl down to the particle board. Then use bondo to patch up the larger dings. The smaller scatches will be taken care of when you primer over them. Just remember that primer has to be sanded as well and use an oil-based primer. You'll have to lay the cab on its sides as you apply the primer so that it levels itself out. That will take care of the scratches and will fill in the divots if you are working with particle board. Once it is all smooth, spray it. Fuck all that rolling and wetsanding shit. You think it saves money, but what will end up happening instead is that you will hate life because wetsanding sucks, unless you have a neumatic wet sander. Get that $119 HVLP spray kit from Harbor Freight and you won't have to waste your life rolling and wetsanding.