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It will be another adjustment pot, likely on the chassis but also potentially on the neckboard (IDK I didn't have that make CRT).
 
The fluted red tube that comes with that set of adjustment tools, once fitted over the end of one of the adjustment tools should allow you enough leverage and reach to get to the width coil. If you can't get it to bite, you don't have the right size tool and might have to get another set. Double check the fit of all the tools in that set with the monitor off and discharged until you find one that fits. Can't imagine that set doesn't have one that fits. DO NOT stick a metal hex head wrench in there with the power on. Sometimes these width coils go bad and they are hard to come by these days, but you can find some on KLOV though. Reflowing solder around there may help you too. Also reflowing solder around cap C38. Replacing C38 with a cap of different capacitance will increase/decrease width as well.

As for pincushioning, K7000's have no such adjustment. If you have such issues once your chassis is completely rebuilt, you have to live with it.
 
Wow, that is a crazy amount of pincushion to live with.
 
The pincushion issue may lessen by adjusting horizontal size though
 
No doubt it should fall in line with his original image once it's dialed in, but hearing you have to just live with pincushion without a dedicated adjustment just seems crazy.
 
You guys are making me feel bad... ;(

Everything seemed fine even after my recap. I wonder why it started to shrink ? Only thing I can think of is trying to adjust the width coil, see where that gets me, then maybe replace cap 38 as earlier mentioned to see where that gets me. If it was working so well then something I have done must have caused it to narrow like that. ;(
 
FIXED!

Eat your hearts out!

rc58Mh5.jpg


So I spent a ton of time fooling around with the width coil and width caps. I just couldn't get the width to extend to the sides of the screen. I saw some slight waviness and the picture always seemed to take forever to turn on and be a bit dark but I figured it was just warming up....

So I went on over to the KLOV forums and asked around there and they had asked me what my "B+" was... what the heck is a B+ ? Looking it up, I find out it has to do with the voltages of the chassis/tube. To you guys this might seem a no brainer but to a rookie like me this is hot news! So I checked the voltages on both the Voltage regulator and on the ceramic resistor.

Nh2DLUk.jpg


Everyone's first hunch was that it might be the resistors here so I take them out of circuit and check them. They seem ok, except the VR and Ceramic resistor are showing 109 volts out and since this is a 25" chassis it should be 130 volts. So I am not getting the proper voltage to my tube! This would explain the faint wavy lines, the long time to load up, and the narrow and pincushion picture! Great now what do I do? They suggest I replace the Voltage regulator. Arrives in 2 days from Arcade Parts and Repair, same place I got the width caps from. I somehow lifted the traces taking out the old VR. No problem, I will just use capacitor legs I keep handy! Apply fresh thermal paste, solder it in. Load it up... and walla!

I am surprised no one had mentioned to check the B+ to me. Especially @acbluden2 , since over there I saw some of your old threads about the very same screen. Apparently you are supposed to check your B+ after a complete recap.

Seems it is nigh impossible to find the 8600pF for C69 and 1000pf for C36 poly caps for the underside of the chassis. I wanted to replace all the poly caps while I had it out but I couldn't find a source anywhere. It's sad to think once this flyback goes I will have to get a complete new one. It is such an amazing picture!

While I was at it I finally installed that stereo amp that was suggested, and properly installed wires from the power supply to a molex connector to the amp. Sounds great compared to mono! Also installed the new move list artwork.

Still dialing in the colors and stuff but it is much more comforting knowing everything is working properly! I will leave it on for the next 12 hrs as a stress test.

tVwL0vj.jpg
 
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Welp, you learn something new every day! So now I'll add the VR replacement to the toolbox for when I encounter that same issue. The important thing is that you got it going. Congrats!
 
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