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Suzo happ sells so many different models.

Would a 110w Pro work for most jamma?

or should I get a higher wattage?
 
Thats the happ version of those chinese clones basically.
 
Don't be so eager to replace parts in your cab. Your PSU has life in it. Take it out. Clean it. Clean out the fan (there are videos on Youtube). If it is still loud, buy a new fan which will set you back $5. You might even be able to pilfer a PC fan out of an unused PC case you might have laying around. Adjust the voltages under load. If you can't get a steady +5.0v and +12.0v on the proper rails, then recap it. Also, reflow solder all around. Put it back in and dial in the voltages again.

The only hard part here is that getting out the PSU requires you to remove the monitor. But that isn't an impossible task either.
 
I would if I can find a cap kit.

I would rather not read caps and order generic ones.

Also I’m an amateur when it comes to soldering so I’m taking my work to a local electronic repair.

I just popped the monitor out and am taking it to get the fly back, pcb, and neckboard pcb capped and replaced.

 
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Don't be so eager to replace parts in your cab. Your PSU has life in it. Take it out. Clean it. Clean out the fan (there are videos on Youtube). If it is still loud, buy a new fan which will set you back $5. You might even be able to pilfer a PC fan out of an unused PC case you might have laying around. Adjust the voltages under load. If you can't get a steady +5.0v and +12.0v on the proper rails, then recap it. Also, reflow solder all around. Put it back in and dial in the voltages again.

The only hard part here is that getting out the PSU requires you to remove the monitor. But that isn't an impossible task either.
Well I took your advice and took the PSU out of the cab. I didnt have the hex security but found a close star security that fit and unmounted it.

It was pretty gross..


After some light cleaning it looked better and I got a lot of dust out of the fan.



I got my multimeter out and found the legend for the hot pins and plugged it in: It sounded better but still revs randomly at higher and lower speeds like it has a mind of its own:




I am unsure how to use a multi meter so Ill explain my process: Turn on to low range DC, Place red on hot pin and black on GND?

With this I got these values:

+5 V = +5V

-5 V = -5V

12v = 10.46V??

Do you always touch one end of the multi to the pin and the other to the ground?

The PSU looks much better but the noise and the 10.46 got me confused.

And what is the pot marked "H" with a round arrow around it?
 
Yeah you are supposed to measure it under load (i.e. with your board connected). 12v should be driving sound. The screw will adjust your voltage up and down to compensate for different boards connected.
 
This model doesn't have screw terminal (that I know of) in or out of the PSU shell, and I was using the pins on the connector to test voltage on my multimeter.

Where would I test voltage from if I couldn't use my connected connector?

I plugged it into the wall and hit the "on" round steel button.
 
Where would I test voltage from if I couldn't use my connected connector?
On the JAMMA edge.

2014-04-15-21.53.29.gif
 
Where would I test voltage from if I couldn't use my connected connector?
On the JAMMA edge.
2014-04-15-21.53.29.gif
How would I do that with the jamma board attached? CI use the solder leads on the Jamma PCB going into the connector or would I need to get inside the connector somehow with my multi meter?

I'm stoked to be a newb right now.

This information about fundamentals is awesome.
 
How would I do that with the jamma board attached? CI use the solder leads on the Jamma PCB going into the connector or would I need to get inside the connector somehow with my multi meter?
I'm stoked to be a newb right now.

This information about fundamentals is awesome.
Watch from where I bookmarked this video:
 
Most JAMMA connectors afford you access to the end of the pins.

received_2037985106508117.jpeg

You can also just shove the leads into the wire end of the connector.
 
Yeah, you can also check on components on the board somewhere, but you'll need to look up the pinout for that component. Not all ROMs / RAM / etc are created with the same pinout.
 
How would I do that with the jamma board attached? CI use the solder leads on the Jamma PCB going into the connector or would I need to get inside the connector somehow with my multi meter?
I'm stoked to be a newb right now.

This information about fundamentals is awesome.
Watch from where I bookmarked this video:
He's testing 5 volts. What about balance between -5, 12+, +5? I learned today that it was important according to the youtube video I clicked.

I will test both the jamma edge and the rom chip to see what the deal is.

Here is my PCB.

I am unsure which rom is best for testing 5+V.

I am not sure if its the raiden 2 black chips or the chips labeled with tape.

Click for full resolution.

 
I would if I can find a cap kit.

I would rather not read caps and order generic ones.

Also I’m an amateur when it comes to soldering so I’m taking my work to a local electronic repair.

I just popped the monitor out and am taking it to get the fly back, pcb, and neckboard pcb capped and replaced.
Check at arcadepartsandrepair.com to see if there is a cap kit for your PSU. There is a cap kit for your monitor which I believe is a K7000A, for which you can use a K7000 cap kit. But you will likely not find a flyback for your K7000A Zenith chassis. Take a pic of your monitor chassis and post it here and we can confirm for you.
 
Here is my PCB.
I am unsure which rom is best for testing 5+V.

I am not sure if its the raiden 2 black chips or the chips labeled with tape.
1-7 are roms. Find out what rom types they are (the silk screening on the rom) and look for the schematics online. That should tell you what pin is +5v and Gnd.
 
I would if I can find a cap kit.

I would rather not read caps and order generic ones.

Also I’m an amateur when it comes to soldering so I’m taking my work to a local electronic repair.

I just popped the monitor out and am taking it to get the fly back, pcb, and neckboard pcb capped and replaced.
Check at arcadepartsandrepair.com to see if there is a cap kit for your PSU. There is a cap kit for your monitor which I believe is a K7000A, for which you can use a K7000 cap kit. But you will likely not find a flyback for your K7000A Zenith chassis. Take a pic of your monitor chassis and post it here and we can confirm for you.
I got this one:



https://www.ebay.com/itm/95-4438-1-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
 
Most JAMMA connectors afford you access to the end of the pins.

received_2037985106508117.jpeg

You can also just shove the leads into the wire end of the connector.
I tested the Jamma edge and the rom chips 4 and 5 and tested 4.8V on the ROM and 5.6 on the JAMMA edge on. I am afraid to bring the rom over 5 volts with that difference.

(note: I am not testing my cab psu, I am using my supergun for testing difference in jamma edge and ROM voltage.)
 
Not testing the cab PSU is absolutely not going to help you with the cab at all.

12v you'll need to measure at Jamma edge.
 
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