Yes but my monitor is at electronic repair getting a recap and hopefully flyback. I cannot give it a full load yet without it. I did have my raiden 2 PCB hooked up to my superun.Not testing the cab PSU is absolutely not going to help you with the cab at all.
12v you'll need to measure at Jamma edge.
I cant confirm. I brought my chassis to electronic repair along with the flyback.That flyback won't work for a K7000A. Post a pic of your chassis so we can confirm which chassis you have.
12V runs the fan in the PSU, so that could be the reason why it's running erratically.12v = 10.46V??
The monitor is powered by mains voltage, it won't affect the load on the PSU.Yes but my monitor is at electronic repair getting a recap and hopefully flyback. I cannot give it a full load yet without it. I did have my raiden 2 PCB hooked up to my superun.
I make a cut with a Dremel on the face of the bolt and then use a flat headed screwdriver to hold it in place.How do I deal with these stubborn round surface bolts?
If he charged you money, bring it on back to him. Whether he wants it back or not, if he messed it up you should either get it fixed, or be given back your money.I offered to take the cabinet to his repair facility but he is not seeming to want to see it again.
Unfortunately, the K7000A's screen pot isn't marked like that:Should be the one marked "screen" on the flyback btw.
I turned the voltage pot all the way clockwise and got no image.Ok, firstly, check the screen pot on the flyback. I suspect that it may be possible the dude that repaired this for you dialed it all the way down (counter-clockwise). Turn it back up to see if you have an image (clockwise). It is the pot closer to the bottom on your flyback. The one on the top of the flyback is the focus pot.
Here are the connections for a K7000A. If standing facing the cab from the back, here is what you should hook up in this order:
EDIT: If it has a remote board, make sure that is connected before you turn on the monitor on.
- The anode cap.
- This is the circular rubber plug with metal rabbit ears that snaps into the the top center of the tube
- The wire is red (usually) for this, the cap is black
- This is comes off the top of the flyback
- If touching this, make sure you discharged the monitor, even if you have discharged it previously as this can recharge itself
- The DAG wire
- This is the wire the comes off the grounding strap that is wrapped around your tube from the left side
- On this monitor, this wire is normally soldered onto the neckboard
- Normally for maintenance/repair, this wire is snipped off, then re-attached with quick disconnects
- Power
- This should be easy as the connectors there fit no where else
- Just be mindful that there should be a green ground wire that should be a part of the connector (if it is a 3-position connector), or the green wire grounds to a bolt on the frame if the connector only has 2 positions
- Yoke connector
- This is the wire that comes off the yoke (the copper metal coils on the tube's neck)
- This connects to the header just above the flyback
- Video connector
- This might be in two pieces w/RGB on one connector and Gnd and Sync on the other.
- From the back edge of the board:
- Pin 1=Red, pin 2= Green, pin 3=Blue, pin 7=Gnd/Black, pin 9 = Sync/White
- Then the degausse cable
- It is can be inserted either way and is not keyed
If they didn't test the chassis, it sure as hell is. No decent repair shop would do any repairs to a chassis and not test if it works afterwards.That isn't the fault of the electronics repair shop.
Nah, it's on him. Reminds me of a trivial event I experienced yesterday. I need a hair cut badly. I looked up a barber shop on Yelp that was nearby. When I drove there, I saw pictures of Black people on the windows looking fly! All faded up nicely, others with nice hair extensions and all. I am Asian, so guess what: my hair is still long =).If they didn't test the chassis, it sure as hell is. No decent repair shop would do any repairs to a chassis and not test if it works afterwards.That isn't the fault of the electronics repair shop.
@hoagtech, ask them if they tested it.
FYPIt's on the electronics repair shop 100%. If you don't know what you're doing (like CRT work), then put in the sweat equity till you get what you want.
Thanks for the reply guys. I am fresh on the scene and know little about arcade hardware.Nah, it's on him. Reminds me of a trivial event I experienced yesterday. I need a hair cut badly. I looked up a barber shop on Yelp that was nearby. When I drove there, I saw pictures of Black people on the windows looking fly! All faded up nicely, others with nice hair extensions and all. I am Asian, so guess what: my hair is still long =).If they didn't test the chassis, it sure as hell is. No decent repair shop would do any repairs to a chassis and not test if it works afterwards.That isn't the fault of the electronics repair shop.
@hoagtech, ask them if they tested it.
Several misguided (no offense) over-eager misteps were taken here:
- He didn't take it to a decent repair shop; one that specializes in arcade monitor repair. He took it to an mom and pop's electronics repair shop and asked them to recap it and replace the flyback.
- He gave them the wrong flyback to replace (FYI: this is the flyback he needs).
- I urged him to post a pic of his chassis so we could help him out. But he got ahead of himself. We can still help the guy out, but he needs to slow his roll a bit.
They did exactly what he asked them to do. I am pretty sure a mom and pop's electronics repair shop isn't going to have a JAMMA setup to test an arcade monitor. Doubt he even took the tube in, just the chassis. That's on the shoulders of an uninformed consumer. His monitor was working. He got ahead of himself. The monitor needed calibration, maybe the red transistor replaced, but not full on cap kit and flyback replacement, at least not until after an attempt at calibration.
@hoagtech, Slow your roll man. We'll help you out. This forum is nice to new entrants into the hobby.