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Huh, I have a k7000 (I think not-a) in my Super Hang-On where the flyback's been fully cooperative so far. If I see a drift in focus or gross bias, I'll think about replacement. My gut feeling is that a factory flyback could be better than a replacement, that may or may not be built cheaper. Of course, with known trouble monitors (like the G07...) that gut feeling won't hold true.
 
There used to be totally refurbed chassis on eBay that were sometimes cheaper then getting a repair when it comes to k7000s.

Might be worth checking out.
 
I have been waiting since June for the Chassis to finish repair. The guy is busy selling arcade parts and has little time to work on it.

I am worried the vacuum seal on my existing Crt neck may have been compromised in the original repair.

I bought a $15 TV off of ebay but the seller never replied to me to set up a time for pickup.

This experience is trying my patience. So in the mean time. I am going to assemble my Multi m72 kit for my supergun and wait out this brutal search for chassis and tube.

Does anyone know of a WG k7000 27" monitor seller on the west coast or CA.

I actually bought a new one from Georgia but the freight was gonna be like $700.

I will not give up on the restore though.
 
If you're looking in CA it should be an easy find. Post on KLOV that you're after one.
 
I have been waiting since June for the Chassis to finish repair. The guy is busy selling arcade parts and has little time to work on it.

I am worried the vacuum seal on my existing Crt neck may have been compromised in the original repair.

I bought a $15 TV off of ebay but the seller never replied to me to set up a time for pickup.

This experience is trying my patience. So in the mean time. I am going to assemble my Multi m72 kit for my supergun and wait out this brutal search for chassis and tube.

Does anyone know of a WG k7000 27" monitor seller on the west coast or CA.

I actually bought a new one from Georgia but the freight was gonna be like $700.

I will not give up on the restore though.
I've got a nice 27" K7400 wells-gardner I need to get rid of, and I am in northern california.
 
I have been waiting since June for the Chassis to finish repair. The guy is busy selling arcade parts and has little time to work on it.

I am worried the vacuum seal on my existing Crt neck may have been compromised in the original repair.

I bought a $15 TV off of ebay but the seller never replied to me to set up a time for pickup.

This experience is trying my patience. So in the mean time. I am going to assemble my Multi m72 kit for my supergun and wait out this brutal search for chassis and tube.

Does anyone know of a WG k7000 27" monitor seller on the west coast or CA.

I actually bought a new one from Georgia but the freight was gonna be like $700.

I will not give up on the restore though.
I've got a nice 27" K7400 wells-gardner I need to get rid of, and I am in northern california.
Sweet this might work out.
 
I just got the repaired chassis back from the repair man.

I am going to get everything ready to be installed and start popping out my monitor and lining up connections.

Is there anything I should know about reinstalling a chassis?

Wish me luck.
 
  1. Discharge the tube one more time to be safe
  2. Fasten at least one screw of the chassis down to the frame in case it slips and grounds to the frame
  3. Make sure everything is connected:
    1. Anode cap
    2. Neck board (pushed all the way in)
    3. DAG wire (you may have to crimp on quick disconnects)
    4. Yoke wires (both of them)
    5. Degauss wire
    6. Remote board
    7. AC Line-in
    8. Have your video source ready
    9. Have your plastic adjustment tools ready
 
I did all of that and was able to get "an" image up on the screen.




It was rolling horizontally and could not be stopped by the H Hold or H pos on either the yoke controls or the monitor pcb.

Also the image is still missing red. I turned R cut off all the way down and turned gain up and disabled gain and cut off on all other colors but could only get a feint Red/black to appear.

The seller sent me a photo of the color bars on monitor showing red clearly so I believe the Chassis is functional according to his picture.



The previous repairman added a Pot to the 50/60 hz horizontal hold and messing with it didn't seem to help the horizontal scrolling.

I was hoping for a fix but I'm a little disapointed. I do have a replacement monitor being shipped my way from CA

I will hold onto this chassis in the hopes of seeing a 27" tube that fits it.

In the mean time. I feel more comfortable working inside my Monitors and can finish installing the new joysticks and buttons in the Raiden II cab.
 
Also the image is still missing red. I turned R cut off all the way down and turned gain up and disabled gain and cut off on all other colors but could only get a feint Red/black to appear.
It's probably a tube issue. Ask around if someone local to you has a rejuvenator.

However, the sync issue isn't related to the tube. In the second pic you have the dag wire just loose on the side. Why's that?
 
Also the image is still missing red. I turned R cut off all the way down and turned gain up and disabled gain and cut off on all other colors but could only get a feint Red/black to appear.
It's probably a tube issue. Ask around if someone local to you has a rejuvenator.

However, the sync issue isn't related to the tube. In the second pic you have the dag wire just loose on the side. Why's that?
I just posted a pic of the tube removed. I reinstalled that wire to the chassis and shrunk tubing over it. The sync issue is unresolved.
 
With your synch issue and that you adjusted the pots to no effect, I think either:
  1. The remote board wasn't connected properly or the harness wire(s) came loose on the chassis or board side
    • Check it
    • Also, check your H-Hold pot for a cold solder joint
  2. Your PCB is at fault; possilbe the sync trace got scratched/severed
    • See what happens if you plug in another PCB to confirm
 
That's a good point. If the chassis was working at whoever fixed it, I would first look in to the jamma harness in your cab. Trace the sync pin from the jamma edge connector down to the monitor.
 
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