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Just bought a broken Raiden 2 cab (Dynamo HS-9) from skating rink. Repaired monitor not working. Pics

rewrite said:
Even worse on the electronic repair shop's part is that they had the entire monitor, not just the chassis. They KNEW it wasn't working when they handed it back.
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Culpability is on the consumer here, iMO. Argue that the repair shop is at fault all you want. But what can't be argued is that the mom and pop's electronics repair shop the OP took his chassis to can fix arcade equipment. Keep up the argument and that will lead down a dead end. Not going to help the OP.
hoagtech said:
I knew petitioning the electronics repair man that he did not specialize in CRT but he claimed he had done it in the 80's. He's an old Japanese man in a very small business suite.
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Take the "L" here. You didn't get what you wanted but you're not absolved of culpability here and you know it. You might be able to get your money back here at a loss to the repair guy. Or you might not, at a loss to you. What you won't get in further dealings with this repair shop is your monitor fixed. Take the "L", accept your fault in it, and move on.
hoagtech said:
I was hoping his soldering skills and the kits I ordered were gonna be good enough to get my monitor in working condition. But I ordered the wrong kits and asked him to install it. He also told me he had no way of testing it.
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Yeah, see. This is why I feel you are at fault. You petitioned someone who repairs vacuums and hair dryers to replace parts on an arcade monitor.

Slow your roll. Be informed. Accept the mistakes you made here. Learn from them. Keep to the mission. Move on.
hoagtech said:
He did say he would call me with a recommendation from one of his friends next Monday.
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Yeah, no. Move on.
hoagtech said:
I think the best bet would be having him install my old flyback from what I've gathered from your guy's advice.
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Nope. Not exactly. Installation of wrong parts might have damaged something else. Reinstalling the flyback might not do anything at this point. And those pots do not look correct to me either.

Here is your best bet:
  1. Firstly, learn to discharge your monitor so that you can remove the chassis and have some options available to you. I feel since you didn't bother to learn how to do that, you boxed yourself into having to take the monitor into a mom and pops repair shop and that is how you are in the situation you are in now.
    • Go to Harbor Freight and buy long flat head screw driver, some electrical tape, alligator clips. Should cost you around $10 in total
    • Fashion your own discharge tool
    • Watch this video at least 3x and discharge your monitor
    • Remember, any time you get near the anode cap, discharge your monitor again
    • Now that you monitor is discharged, remove it from the frame. I left you instructions on how to do this earlier.
  2. Now you have options.
    • Send it into a real professional arcade monitor specialist for repair
    • Buy a rebuilt/overhauled one
      • Don't buy any from eBay as they may be pulled from old machines that are on their last legs of functionality
    • Take it back into that mom and pops repair shop to ask that your old flyback is put back in, and keep your fingers crossed that nothing else is damaged
    • Learn to fix it yourself
Given your experience, I'd go with buying a rebuilt/overhauled chassis. Going for repairs given your experience might require you to communicate to the repairman symptoms of your chassis that you don't quite understand at this point. Just get another chassis. Chassis repair with a new flyback costs about the same after factoring shipping costs as buying an overhauled/rebuilt K7000 chassis. Plus, you can sell the chassis you have now as a parts board for some equity back.
hoagtech said:
Is my monitor an K7000A? or just K7000?
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You have a K7000. Otherwise known as a Wells Gardner K7000.

Sorry for the confusion. I must have missed some of your original pics when on mobile accessing this site. The good news is the flyback is readily available for Wells Gardner K7000's.
 
acblunden2 said:
Culpability is on the consumer here, iMO.
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Given further details in OP's most recent post, I agree with you entirely.

All good advice here, @hoagtech. Now that you know what's wrong, it's just making a choice from here. Least you're not chasing what's wrong still! Just for the love of everything good don't bring it back to that guy or his friends. Ask for your money back, and whether you get it back or not, move on to either doing it yourself or sending it to a real professional.

I vote learn to fix it yourself. You learn something, which is always good, and if you don't fix it, well, you can still send it out for repairs!
 
rewrite said:
acblunden2 said:
Culpability is on the consumer here, iMO.
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Given further details in OP's most recent post, I agree with you entirely.
All good advice here, @hoagtech. Now that you know what's wrong, it's just making a choice from here. Least you're not chasing what's wrong still! Just for the love of everything good don't bring it back to that guy or his friends. Ask for your money back, and whether you get it back or not, move on to either doing it yourself or sending it to a real professional.

I vote learn to fix it yourself. You learn something, which is always good, and if you don't fix it, well, you can still send it out for repairs!
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I'm not gonna ask for my money back.

He was a very nice man and tried to help me after all the arcades around 50 miles me refused to let me contact their arcade repair contractors. I even called an arcade repair business and left message after message to never get a call back.

I'm gonna pull the annode off with a screwdriver alligator clip and unassemble the Neckboard and chassy and get it inspected by an out of area arcade repair specialist.

He is confident he will get my color red back and has tubes in stock to keep my prices reasonable if need be and shipping is cheap for the troubleshooting of the boards.

So far I'm set back $250 for cab, caps, and tools. I'm Feeling a little better now.

The setbacks on this learning experience are very frustrating but you guys seem very passionate about motivating people to fix there gear instead of replacing.

Thanks. Ill let you know how the disassembly goes.
 
One other thing about the missing red on your monitor. Even with a fixed chassis, not much can be done if the CRT's red gun is dead. You might be in need of a new tube too. Since you mentioned that your tube has Raiden burned into the screen, look to do a tube swap. For this, you need to find a 25" TV with the same neck as your K7000 chassis. But let's not get ahead of ourselves here. Get that chassis back up and running. Once you do, you'll have a working chassis that will have higher value than what you paid for the entire cab originally. If the red gun on your CRT is dead, cross that bridge when you get there.

On a side note, I am fixing a K7000 right now. Funny how things work.
 
@acblunden2
I got the anode cap off. (phew)



And the chassis is being shipped to an arcade chassis specialist.



I also snipped the wire going to the metal frame about 6" above the neck PCB. I am hoping I can use a crimp connector to rebind when my chassis is fixed or replaced.


You guys rock. Thanks especially for that DIY discharge tool.
 
This is all very terrifying stuff. It is why I spend so much time researching things before taking the plunge. My cabinet is still in pieces and I have done so many things to it that any little thing like a capacitor in backwards or some wire not reattached snugly could throw off the entire project when I put it together again and I will be in over my head because I wouldn't know where to start. Seems that you bought the cabinet and went strait to giving the monitor to someone who wasn't completely confident or experienced in CRT repair. Unless you are absolutely certain of someones talents in the future don't pull that trigger. I was skeptical of all the advice I was getting on painting recently. Some say spray it on, others say roll it on. Every guy I talked to said the other guy didn't know what he was talking about and I had to listen to stories of how they come from families of Greek painters and yadda yadda.

CRT repair is a dying art for sure. I see tube TV's in the trash bin across the street from me and before I got into repairing them recently myself I thought nothing of them. Now I look at them with a sadness and mourning. :(

Only thing I can think of is for you to get your hands dirty on this project and come out atleast with some learning experience and hopefully network some friends in your region who can help you out.
 
acblunden2 said:
The Wells Gardner K7000 flyback is tricky enough as it is to install.
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what’s the trick? I recently removed a K7000 flyback to thoroughly clean my chassis, and have since re-installed it.
I normally don’t remove the flyback for cleaning but this board had lots of grime on it.
Is there anything to note when re-installing the flyback on a K7000?
 
It's the heat sink that covers up part of the flyback that makes it tricky. Making positioning in and realigning the holes for the new one hard to do. Here is the trick to work around it:

 
hoagtech said:
And the chassis is being shipped to an arcade chassis specialist.
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Who may I ask is doing this? And I ask because you seem like a pragmatic guy. Pragmatic thinking tends to lend lots of credence to reputation or the first sales pitch. So you might get swindled. Don't guy with the first guy that offers help unless there is known testimony on his work.

Here is some guidelines for repair. You are looking at a minimum of $150 for any K7000 repair that needs a new flyback, which yours does, plus shipping to and from. If your specialist is saying it shall be less, run. Take pics of your chassis before you send it off so you don't get bait and switched. I get a grease pen and mark up my chassis if I ever send them off for repair. Gives me security. Also, I know what was replaced by the repair shop so I can do it myself the next time.
hoagtech said:
I also snipped the wire going to the metal frame about 6" above the neck PCB. I am hoping I can use a crimp connector to rebind when my chassis is fixed or replaced.
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Make sure the connection is secure and insulated with plastic. If metal is exposed, it can fry your chassis.
 
acblunden2 said:
Kavas said:
Some say spray it on, others say roll it on.
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So what did you go with? Spray or roll and wet sand?
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I will update my post when all is said and done with some more info, lots done since I last posted in there! ;) Almost done with it. Rest of parts coming in.

I went with foam rollers and latex paint. I primed it with an entire quart and then painted it with a quart. Problem is the final coat I can't seem to get the lines and some splotches to go away no matter how many times I redo it. It must be my amateur painting skills. So Tomorrow when I take my father out for Father's day, I will stop at Harbor Freight and pickup the spray gun that comes with the adjuster and try my hand at that for the final coat. I only have a pancake air compressor but I am hoping since I only need to do a single pass touchup job it should work out. They also have this electric spray gun but YouTube videos say it is only good for big stuff like walls and fences, not detailed work. The dude at Sherwin Williams store tried to sell me all this crap and said I would still have some orange peeling and there's no way around it. I got outta there fast.

I did try the wet sand, but it made the black a lighter color, and I was already in love with the dark black color, so I won't be doing the wet sanding.
 
Pancake compressors are good for about 2 seconds worth of spraying with HVLP guns. HVLP requires a big compressor unless you use a turbine kit. The HF HVLP kit does a good job with arcade cabs. Mixed results with auto stuff though. Check my old thread here and see for yourself:

Capcom Big Blue SF2CE Restoration

Ok, back on topic.
 
I picked up a craighslist Nanao ms29 a while ago. Blue was dead. Was just a cold solder joint on the neckboard PCB. Took a little bit to find it, but was an easy fix. Every time I learn something, now that's on my list of things to check should I see that issue again. So passing it along, might be the cause of the dead red.
 
Missing red can be a number of things. Chassis need repair at this point regardless. Then he has Raiden burnt into the tube. So unless he can live with the burn, he is going to need a new tube. Thankfully, it’s a Wells Gardner not a Nanao. Lots of donor tubes for 25” WG’s.
 
Happy Fathers day.

I am waiting for the chassis repair so what better time to clean?


I used Joy and hot water.

Then I rubbed White lithium into the finish.

BEFORE:








AFTER:







 
nem said:
I agree, he got ahead of himself. The problem is when you're new to this hobby you take everything as gospel. Post 14 is where he was recommended getting a new flyback. No idea why, he had a perfectly working one on his monitor. Post 36 is where he's told his monitor "is believed to be a K7000A". People pick up on these things. He had bought something really cool (his first arcade cab I think?), naturally he was antsy to get the thing going.
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I've rebuilt enough K7000s to know they only exist in 2 states at this point. They have had the flyback replaced or they need it. Even if the flyback works well enough to display a picture, it will slowly lose focus as it heats up, be so sensitive you can't get a good focus to begin with, or it will just let go completely. If you're taking the chassis out to do a cap kit, there's no reason to not replace it and save yourself the hassle of pulling it again when the flyback fails, which it will.

That said, if had been a K7000a, the flyback should have been left alone.
 
Looking good @hoagtech!
98pacecar said:
I've rebuilt enough K7000s to know they only exist in 2 states at this point. They have had the flyback replaced or they need it. Even if the flyback works well enough to display a picture, it will slowly lose focus as it heats up, be so sensitive you can't get a good focus to begin with, or it will just let go completely. If you're taking the chassis out to do a cap kit, there's no reason to not replace it and save yourself the hassle of pulling it again when the flyback fails, which it will.
That said, if had been a K7000a, the flyback should have been left alone.
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Not true. Not all cabs with OEM parts are equal in terms of states of disrepair even given the passing of time on them is the same.

I have 20-25 K7000's, most have not needed new flybacks and still work just fine. Some of the original ones work better and produce a sharper image than the Chinese replacements. Matter of fact, when I got into this hobby 3 years ago, I was told the same thing. "If you are going to recap your monitor, might as well replace the flyback as well since it will fail." You know who told me that? Parts vendors =). Ever notice when someone with less than 50 posts asks a question on KLOV, the first people that reply are parts vendors? Now I know better. I bought 10 flybacks and 10 cap kits for the cabs in my first pickup. I still have 7 K7000 flybacks from the original batch of 10 I bought sitting on my workbench. No more cap kits though.

In any case, don't take it as a slight, even the more experienced of us take misteps. nem runs an arcade. He has probably fixed more K7000's than you and I together. Point is, the OP got ahead of himself. Some misteps made. He is getting back on the right track. He'll be able to enjoy his arcade soon. That is the aim and mission.
 
Yeah, I'm also on team "if it works, leave it alone". You could have thousands of hours of operation left in any working component. That's a lot in home use. Sure if it's losing focus, then absolutely, replace it. However, if it's working fine, then let it be.

acblunden2 said:
He has probably fixed more K7000's than you and I together.
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I haven't. I have mostly Japanese cabs.
 
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