Just bought a broken Raiden 2 cab (Dynamo HS-9) from skating rink. Repaired monitor not working. Pics

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    • Just bought a broken Raiden 2 cab (Dynamo HS-9) from skating rink. Repaired monitor not working. Pics

      As the title states. I was at my kids preschool grad party when I asked my local skate rink if they wanted to sell their out of order Raiden 2 Cab. They asked for $300 and I gave them what I had in my pocket which was $122.

      It doesn't power on or show any signs of power and has raiden 2 burnt into the front of the screen.

      The first thing I wanted to check was the PCB but I am stuck on approaching the mother board.

      If I could access the back panel. I could hook up the PCB to my supergun and see where I need to start.

      Heres some pics. Please advise:


    • Yea if you have a Supergun I'd say remove the PCB and test it to make sure the board isn't part of the problem.
      Dynamo's are pretty nice/generic cabs to work with (if your into woodies).
      Darksoft: CPS3, CPS2, F3, MVS
      RGB: RECO v2, HAS v3
      invzim: Jammafier v1.6b
      XianXi: JNX Raiden, SC Taito Classic, SC Sega System 16/24
      Frank_fjs: JAMMA Extender (Special Edition)
    • I took the top back quarter and could see into the back. I saw my jamma board but could not access it under the chassis of the monitor.

      I looked around with my light and found a round steel button on the side of the internal power supply. I hit it and the power supply spit out dust and sounded like shit, but started.

      The screen looked very green and blue, but powered on.



      The monitor didn't seem to have trim pots on the adjustments:



      Still I cant figure out how to open the back. There are these 2 Steel hook and eye barrels on the left and right and I have loosend them. The back will not come off and the Jamma board is secure by the underside the footing. So I cant reach in and unscrew it:

      There is little access in the front quarter door and I would love to receive my jamma board for testing.

      Trim pot pic:

    • I wish I had a side screw.

      Its a solid finish with no screws on the upper over lapping side.

      Also the under side like you showed in the video was unlatched but there was no control panel swivel. It was tightly locked in place.

      I managed to extract the PCB from the front and it looked glorious on my supergun.

      The problem is twofold. The buttons on both players interrupt each other (moving direction interferes with fire and vise versa), And the color red is non existent on the monitor.

      Does anyone know where the service switch is on these cabs so I get a color bar going?
    • I figured out to open it. The latches were undone but there were L brackets and bolt mounted next to the controller that had to be removed.



      The screen (not pictured) does not display red regardless of red "cut off" and "gain"

      I found my pots for my monitor, One set is on the neck the other is on a side PCB.





      My monitor needs new caps so I was trying to identify it.

      it has a tag to the side which starts with WG. is that Wells Gardner?



      ALso found a ID tag. Look like this is a Dynamo HS-9 Ply.



      The joysticks said cherry on the bottom of them



      I had a hard time searching for parts.

      Does anyone know where I can Find Monitor Capacitors, Joysticks, and PSU for this model?
    • I just got done recapping a k7000 chassis. Your cabinet has the exact metal control panel and the innard slanted board as mine, so I guess these were cookie cutter cab designs. Pull on those latches you see and that slanted board will come out through the control panel and then lay flat. You can take it completely out if you disengage the control connects. I took off the metal CP and gave it a thorough cleaning.
    • Thanks for the info guys I just ordered a cap kit and a new flyback JIC.

      The good news is the PCB is fine.

      It looked amazing on my Megaview.




      I hope these caps do some justice.

      How about power supply. Can I change this noisy monster out for a generic one?

      And joysticks. Where could I find a new pair of joys and buttons?
    • hoagtech wrote:


      And joysticks. Where could I find a new pair of joys and buttons?
      Been looking for replacement buttons/joysticks myself. I usually shop at focusattack or paradise arcade but they don't seem to have the Suzo Happ combinations I want in stock. I've only ever dealt with Japanese Candy cabs and Sanwa parts which are readily available. I have heard that Suzo Happs aren't what they used to be and some people swearing by IL branded parts. Something I need to look into further.

      I am extremely jealous of you picking up that cab for so cheap. I don't think my area has had a skating ring since the 90's, too many lawsuits. I need to scope out businesses that are likely to have these old arcade machines and throw out some bids on stuff they have sitting in the corner.
    • Get the iL Eurostick. Basically, they are the same as the Happ sticks manufactured during the 90's. As of fairly recently, Happ started sending their sticks to be made in China. Don't get any new Happ sticks. Get the original iL Eurosticks; the only difference from way back in the day is the name.

      $122 for a Raiden cab is a steal. Nice score. Only problem I see is that your control panel has little flexibility for 6-button SF2 style games. Probably the main thing you need to worry about with that cab. 2nd thing is the burn in on the monitor. You can swap out the tube with a TV if you ready for that. Start looking on Craigslist for 25" TV's you can harvest a donor tube from.
    • acblunden2 wrote:

      Get the iL Eurostick. Basically, they are the same as the Happ sticks manufactured during the 90's. As of fairly recently, Happ started sending their sticks to be made in China. Don't get any new Happ sticks. Get the original iL Eurosticks; the only difference from way back in the day is the name.

      $122 for a Raiden cab is a steal. Nice score. Only problem I see is that your control panel has little flexibility for 6-button SF2 style games. Probably the main thing you need to worry about with that cab. 2nd thing is the burn in on the monitor. You can swap out the tube with a TV if you ready for that. Start looking on Craigslist for 25" TV's you can harvest a donor tube from.
      Thanks for that tip. I am trying to stick to arcade monitors because RGB is rare in my area and I don't want to convert component.

      How did your CE hs-9 turn out? I actually saw your post earlier today.
    • You can use any arcade power supply in these cabs provided they fit in the space afforded and you connect the voltage rails correctly to the JAMMA harness. +5v to +5v on the harness, -5v to -5v on the harness, +12v to +12v on the harness, ground to ground. You'll want to be sure you use the proper crimping tool and connectors to make it clean.

      Not all PSU's are the same under load an in terms of reliability however.