It's been stereo modded right? AFAIK, only the MV1 and MV1F have stereo by default.
- Thread starter Frank_fjs
- Start date
I'm thinking of changing the audio switch to a 3 pin header / jumper shunt combo. Aside from cost reduction, it's a more compact solution which may come in handy as I work towards optimising things towards the 3D enclosure design.
Another benefit re MVS stereo mods, a header would provide a means of connection from the MVS left / right channels directly to said header of Minigun.
Another benefit re MVS stereo mods, a header would provide a means of connection from the MVS left / right channels directly to said header of Minigun.
I haven't modded it yet, but it looks like the stereo left/right channels are accessible on the board. I was wondering if these could be connected somehow to the Minigun?
Is there any current way to connect the MV1C to stereo output on the current Minigun?
Only though the jamma edge right now. Or route the audio separate and have the minigun do everything else.
Fleshing out the V2 PCB. If you have any suggestions voice them sooner than later as I'm nearing ordering the PCBs.
- DB15's spaced apart to accommodate UD encoders.
- LPF and AUDIO switch changed to 3 pin male header pins, 2.54mm pitch, to be used with jumper shunts. More compact and cost effective versus actual switches.
- Voltmeter support added.
- Silkscreen flipped to be readable from looking at the PCB with the jamma connector at the rear.
Is there any advantage of maintaining 3 pots for R, G and B signal separately. On the HAS there seems to be a single knob that can be twisted and i presume it alters R, G and B in equal amounts. If that's the case then it's a convenient feature to alter R, G and B to equal values via single knob rather than 3 separate ones which i ended up tweaking to the same values as you suggested before to get .4 V. I'm not sure if the current space would allow to get a single knob thing instead of 3 separate pots.Fleshing out the V2 PCB. If you have any suggestions voice them sooner than later as I'm nearing ordering the PCBs.
- DB15's spaced apart to accommodate UD encoders.
- LPF and AUDIO switch changed to 3 pin male header pins, 2.54mm pitch, to be used with jumper shunts. More compact and cost effective versus actual switches.
- Voltmeter support added.
- Silkscreen flipped to be readable from looking at the PCB with the jamma connector at the rear.
one other minor thing that i can think of is about the silkscreen since we have to make cables. .e.g if the mini fit jr contacts can be labeled like +5, -5, +12, G. Similar for the kick harness. That would aid when making cables to ensure you are wiring it correctly.
Accuracy. A single 3 gang pot will not provide equal values across each line.
It can be handy to have full control over each individual RGB line too. To calibrate a monitor or to compensate for an ageing / worn / tired monitor that may not have even RGB output.
You only need a few minutes with a multimeter and generally only need to configure them once, so to me it's not a significant burden.
You can add a fourth pot, going from the RGB pot ground pins to common ground for a contrast control but I find this unneccesary.
We could go full fancy pants and utilise a digital potentiometer, with tactile switches to alter values uniformly. I'm actually surprised no-one has done this yet.
It can be handy to have full control over each individual RGB line too. To calibrate a monitor or to compensate for an ageing / worn / tired monitor that may not have even RGB output.
You only need a few minutes with a multimeter and generally only need to configure them once, so to me it's not a significant burden.
You can add a fourth pot, going from the RGB pot ground pins to common ground for a contrast control but I find this unneccesary.
We could go full fancy pants and utilise a digital potentiometer, with tactile switches to alter values uniformly. I'm actually surprised no-one has done this yet.
I am new to this and do not understand a lot of H/W stuff but to me anything that can simplify your life as an end user has my vote. Digital potentiometers sound cool. Am wondering if they come with their own led display displaying the volts. That would get rid of twisting with a philips in addition to asking a person to keep the multimeter hooked on the pins. I have to ask my wife to twist the knobs while i keep a steady hand on the correct pins ensuring i don't short anything. Also, thanks for the tip on the silkscreen being at the bottom. That tells you i just soldered it and hooked it up without focussing a lot on the underside of the pcb.
Not really needed, but you could remove the connection pad from Jamma Key pins (row 7) to make it even more obvious which way to plug in the boards (I guess proper way to do this is to block it off inside the jamma connector though).
I'd prefer to leave it soldered. Extra strength.
JAMMA PARTS is printed on the top side, and as you mention a polarising key is the best way to prevent incorrect insertion.
JAMMA PARTS is printed on the top side, and as you mention a polarising key is the best way to prevent incorrect insertion.
Not necessarily. If done correctly, the solution will provide almost perfect balance. Moreover, in the HAS, the pots are responsible for just around 25% of regulation.
It's a tricky thing to gracefully solve.
Best solution that I've implemened on another supergun, The Sentinel, is to utilise a 3 way switch for audio.
Position 1 - Audio Off
Position 2 - Mono
Position 3 - Stereo
The 3.5mm jack will no longer be switched, so the audio switch will need to be set to OFF in order to cut jamma audio being output through the DIN connector. Then one can utilise the 3.5mm jack as an input for line level audio, which will then be passed through to the DIN.
Just a matter of physically fitting the audio switch onto the PCB.
Soldered up my board!
Very pleasant experience! Turns out the most annoying part was soldering the jamma connector on there...
You did a good job on the design of this.
Now I just need to convert some power supply to try it out as well... hopefully this weekend.
Very pleasant experience! Turns out the most annoying part was soldering the jamma connector on there...
You did a good job on the design of this.
Now I just need to convert some power supply to try it out as well... hopefully this weekend.
I think that the schematic for the voltage divider of inputs in Schematic-STD.pdf is wrong, unless I am missing something.
Now it has stuff like
I assume it should be
The EasyEDA layout is correct though
Now it has stuff like
Code:
JammaBlue -> R(1k) -> GND -> R(220) -> THS7316Blue
Code:
JammaBlue -> R(1k) -> THS7316Blue
|
\--> R(220) -> GND