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Minigun Supergun - An Open Source Supergun

Could the Bom be provided as a CSV so it is much easier to order all the parts?

Alternatively, copy and paste this into notepad and save as .csv and you should be able to import it as a BOM on the digikey site

Code: 
4,493-1268-ND
1,493-13426-1-ND
2,493-10247-1-ND
9,399-1249-1-ND
2,2057-DA15-PL-24-ND
1,SC1464-ND
1,CP-2280-ND
1,455-2271-ND
1,WM13196-ND
2,732-5316-ND
2,732-2678-ND
1,S3356-ND
1,1497-1399-1-ND
3,3362P-102LF-ND
4,P75.0FCT-ND
1,P3.00KFCT-ND
2,P220FCT-ND
2,P820FCT-ND
1,P1.00KFCT-ND
1,P150FCT-ND
2,679-2429-ND
1,401-2001-ND
1,296-41661-1-ND
 
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That's a problem with generic scart cables, there's 21 wires crammed in there with zero shielding.

I like the RGC cables as each wire is individually shielded and then the overall cable is also shielded. Eliminates all interference.

Using the 3.5mm audio output is a good way to solve this issue as you've noticed.
 
FS: Minigun 2.1 boards :D

I have just sent off an order for 20 or so Minigun 2.1's ! Hopefully I'll have them in around two weeks. I'll probably build and sell 5 or so, so if anyone wants to buy one of the spare non-populated PCB's, PM me. I'll ask probably $10 AUD each to cover my costs.
 
Silly question, but what do you use to mount the voltmeter? I see the mounting holes, but no idea what to use.
 
To mount the voltmeter, I use 2 x M2 5mm female to female standoffs. I then use 4 x M2 4mm screws to mount each standoff to the bottom of the PCB, and each one to the voltmeter.

I'll show you a picture later, it'll make more sense.
 
To illustrate two ways of handling mounting of the voltmeter:
  • 2 x M2 brass standoffs, 5mm length, on one side I used female to female, on the other side male to female.
  • If using a male to female standoff, attach the male end of the standoff from the underside of the PCB via an M2 nylon nut. Add an M2 nylon washer between the PCB and standoff.
  • If using female to female, attach one female end of the standoff from the underside of the PCB via an M2 4mm length screw. Add an M2 nylon washer between the PCB and the screw.
69367341_10218029098452056_6087330291913850880_n.jpg
69797972_10218029099052071_3492871703816568832_n.jpg

  • Now you have a base to attach the voltmeter to. Sit voltmeter on top of standoffs, align the mounting tab holes of the voltmeter with the standoffs, secure into place by screwing in with 2 x M2 4mm length screws.

68894353_10218029099732088_1365313156427022336_n.jpg
 
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@DarthMig yes plastic standoffs would be fine. You could even harvest some copper ones from the underside of a computer motherboard or get some for little to nothing from your local computer store, they will have lots probably, if they build PC's.

Any type of standoff will prevent the pins on the bottom of the voltmeter from touching the board. On my 1.7 board I just used two layers of thick 3M automotive double sided tape and it's not going anywhere.
 
evilsim said:
@DarthMig yes plastic standoffs would be fine. You could even harvest some copper ones from the underside of a computer motherboard or get some for little to nothing from your local computer store, they will have lots probably, if they build PC's.

Any type of standoff will prevent the pins on the bottom of the voltmeter from touching the board. On my 1.7 board I just used two layers of thick 3M automotive double sided tape and it's not going anywhere.
Click to expand...
@evilsim Thanks for the info. I though of doing the 3m tape also. That will try to find some of those plastic standoffs.
 
I just assembled mine last night. Excited to try it out but I do have one question I can’t seem to find any information on. What is connector CN5 for? Kick harness?

I plan to hook this up to a spare arcade crt for now and figuring out the best way to do this.
 
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You could certainly use nylon standoffs for the voltmeter. :)

Yep, CN5 is the kick harness connector.
 
evilsim said:
FS: Minigun 2.1 boards :D

I have just sent off an order for 20 or so Minigun 2.1's ! Hopefully I'll have them in around two weeks. I'll probably build and sell 5 or so, so if anyone wants to buy one of the spare non-populated PCB's, PM me. I'll ask probably $10 AUD each to cover my costs.
Click to expand...
I wish to grab a DIY kit (1 pcb + parts) sir depend what costs will be in the end. (diy kit + shipping to Romania) . Can you consider that ? Cheers ^^
 
Is there an affordable arcade power supply that uses a proper socket for the mains voltage? The idea of using bare leads tied to screw in terminals for 240V 50hZ seems unsafe to me.
 
Jumpingmanjim said:
Is there an affordable arcade power supply that uses a proper socket for the mains voltage? The idea of using bare leads tied to screw in terminals for 240V 50hZ seems unsafe to me.
Click to expand...
I feel the same way, but the answer is yes and no. Yes they exist but they are expensive and you'll need to make a custom adapter to fit into the Supergun.

@djsheep has one - I believe they're made by Suzo Happ

There are also terminal covers available for the Mean Well PSUs which @Frank_fjs and I have been discussing and have ordered.

These don't attach to the PSUs with -5v but if you have the non -5 model they're great because they cover up the bare terminals for you which was my biggest concern. They still work on the -5 range but you need to work out another method of attachment or it just rests on top.

Edit: as per below they're not as expensive as I thought
 
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Nope, and buying it locally from Suzo Happ in Australia isn't that bad either...
 
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