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Minigun Supergun - An Open Source Supergun

New version (1.2) up and main post updated.

STANDARD edition gains a switch to toggle button 4 from the Jamma edge.

ADVANCED edition gains a switch to toggle button 4 from the Jamma edge, a MONO / STEREO switch, a change of power connector, various silkscreen and copper improvements.
 
Frank, who do you order your pcbs from? I am looking for a place other than oshpark that will let me pick the color.
 
Power connectors finally arrived so got to finish off the V1.0 advanced PCB properly (just soldered some wires to the board previously). Also made a CPS2 kick harness.

Everything is running nicely.

Have also ordered all the parts listed in the BOM from Digi-Key to confirm fitment. I don't foresee any problems barring a tiny possibility that the 3.5mm audio connector may not fit well.

I've updated the V1.2 PCBs with the exact PCB footprint from the digikey listed part. If someone that has ordered a V1.0 or V1.1 PCB finds an issue with fitment of the digikey 3.5mm audio connector, google PJ324 for the exact part the PCB footprint is based upon, which I can confirm fits perfectly. It's only a few dollars for x 10 of them shipped from Aliexpress.

62351079_10217442860556475_8302788845414383616_n.jpg
 
Hey @Frank_fjs Can you provide me with part that i need to make my own kick harness. The Male connector that goes into the supergun, the male connector that goes into the cps2 A-board and the pins that would get crimped to the wires. Also the male connector and pins that would go for the power connector. I would like to try and make my own cables.
 
I'm not super keen on crimping my own cables, any idea on where I can purchase 1 or 2?
 
great work making these! What thickness pcb would you recommend to make these?
 
I ordered by PCBs with 1.6mm thickness, I think it's the standard, but wait a reply from Frank_fjs or other expert to confirm this.

What would be better for this design, 2oz or 1oz copper weight? From JLCPCB:

JLCPCB said:
1. For 1oz board, please make sure a trace width/space of bigger than 5mil for 2 layer board, 4mil for 4/6 layer board.
2. For 2oz board, please make sure a trace width/space of bigger than 8mil for 2/4/6 layer board.
Click to expand...
 
1.6mm is what I tend to go for with these types of I/O boards that don't have any clearance requirements. Keeps them nice and rigid. But maybe the JAMMA connector works better with 1.0 or 1.2mm, IDK, I've never assembled such a board before.
 
Standard PCB options are fine. 1.6mm thickness and 1oz copper. I don't think increasing board thickness will be of any significant benefit. If you wanted to specify a 2oz copper weight that's fine as the board has a minimum trace width and clearance of 8mil. Enig finish is a nice option for the advanced PCB if you can afford it.

Re kicks and power connectors, the main parts are listed in the SUPPLEMENTARY section. Outside of this, all else you need for the power harness is some 18AWG wire, 3.2mm inner width forked spade connectors and some heat shrink.

For CPS2 kicks, see here. At the bottom is a link with part numbers.

https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Kick_Harness#CPS2.2FCPS3_-_2_Player_Harness
 
I didn't notice if it was posted anywhere, but I guess my mind is wrapped around what is the difference between the two video circuits between standard and advanced? Why would I choose one over the other? What features does one have over the other? Why would I pick one over the other.

I guess I just need more obvious details, instead of tech specs =) thx Frank for all the work!
 
The most practical difference is that the THS7374 is in a TSSOP-14 package, pitch is .65mm between the 14 pins. THS7316 is SOIC-8, with pitch of 1.27mm (nearly double) and only 8 pins. 7316 is much easier to solder. Output is very similar (post from retrorgb.com)


THSCompare.png
 
ok cool. I just wanted to make sure I was not missing anything. At the end of the day, other than application, is just image quality
 
yah I see the pots, as for the sync being buffered, I dunno what that does. Just a stronger signal?
 
ekorz said:
The most practical difference is that the THS7374 is in a TSSOP-14 package, pitch is .65mm between the 14 pins. THS7316 is SOIC-8, with pitch of 1.27mm (nearly double) and only 8 pins. 7316 is much easier to solder. Output is very similar (post from retrorgb.com)


THSCompare.png
Click to expand...
@Frank_fjs, letting the LPF off isn't better, or at least a ON/OFF switch?

Thanks for the schematic.
 
Supposedly, disabling the LPF filter you get a sharper image. This is usually done with a solderable jumper or simply connecting THS7374 pin 9 (BYPASS) to +5V instead of GND, so it should be easy to patch if you already ordered the pcbs.
 
I've left LPF on as in my experience it's most always better left on. On a CRT it looks better being enabled and via an OSSC the difference is miniscule and if needed the OSSCs filters can be disabled.

I'm partial to the advanced edition. I like how well it works and its simplicity. It really is a solid performer without the frills.

I'd suggest going with the advanced, the SMD soldering is quite manageable given the generous spacing and larger sized components.
 
If anyone makes extra advanced versions with all the hookups, I am interested.

Recently got into all this and have a CPS2 and MVS with no current way to play them on a TV. I do not own any superguns. I am patiently waiting for the HAS. If these are as cheap as people are saying, I would gladly purchase one.
 
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