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The, isn't it green?, line represents the cathode (negative). The other side is the anode (positive).

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I like to use a bit of both for SMD, air and iron, but predominantly iron. For ICs I use an iron with a drag technique, for resistors / capacitors I tin one pad with the iron, apply heat to tinned pad and slide component into position with tweezers, then finish off the other pad.
 
It could 100% be green, looks blueish to me though. Either way, flipped it around and it's working now. Thanks for the heads up! Does anyone know if the 3d printed case a few pages back works for the 2.5 rev?
 
I worked on a revised version of the minigun a while ago called the Microgun. Basically I swapped the 8 pin Mini Din for a Genesis 2 compatible 9 pin Mini Din. I also changed the power input options to support a 20 pin ATX plug and removed the 3.5mm audio output because I didn't have a use for it. All of these changes made for a smaller footprint than the minigun, hence the name. Since then some improvements have been made to the minigun project so I've gone back through the Microgun file and implemented some of them.

I have increased the spacing of the controller ports, and added a voltmeter option. Another major change is that I have switched the power connector to an 8 pin Mini Fit JR. Consider this power connector to be an extended version of the standard Minigun pinout. It adds an extra +5v pin and, more importantly a power switch pin. The reason for this is to allow you to attach it to an ATX power supply through an adapter cable and still be able to control the power with the built in power switch on the Microgun. If you plug a standard 6 pin Minigun power cable, the built in power switch simply does nothing.

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The footprint is incredibly small, just 112.2 x 38.7 mm.

Here's an Oshpark link.

Also for fun I decided to make a fixed resistor version that was as small as physically possible. I call this one the Nanogun, it's basically a cross between the old Minigun Advanced and Standard versions.

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This one measures in at an unbelievable 111.1 x 34.3 mm. I honestly doubt anyone could get a supergun any smaller than this without going to a four layer PCB.

Here's an Oshpark link. I still need to add a BOM for these.
I searched the whole internet to find a solution to connect my Neo Geo MVS board with a RAD2x cable to a HDMI Tv and found this nice PCB!

I'm have some little soldering experience but I'm new to audio and video stuff! So please allow me to ask some n00b questions:)

@Arthrimus am I correct that I can use your nice PCB in combination with at RAD2x Genesis 2 cable? Maybe you have also the BOM laying around? Oo

Are there maybe any other solutions that allow me to use a minigun supergun to do that? That would be mega cool!

Thank you all very much!
 
That sounds very promising! I'm looking forward to it and build it as soon as you release it:)

I'm currently playing on my cab in the living room. But it would be also nice to play at my office with a regular HDMI monitor.

@Frank_fjs I appreciate your work, thank you very much!
 
I've been meaning to make a revision of the Minigun with a Mega Drive 2 connector. It won't take long, I'll get it out asap.
I would totally buy another one with that connector.

I'm sure someone would be interested in buying my 2.1 off me in that case
 
I would love to have that Genesis connector. I want to use it with HD Retrovision cables whenever I take it over to a friend's place.
 
I'm working on it now, it's pretty much done just want to tidy some things up. Need to handle sync differently too as most cables have a 470R in series along the sync line to attenuate it.

I prefer the Mega Drive / Genesis 2 cable also, allows for more video out options like component via HD Retrovision and the new stuff RetroGamingCables is doing. Also drops 12 components from the PCB.
 
I'm working on it now, it's pretty much done just want to tidy some things up. Need to handle sync differently too as most cables have a 470R in series along the sync line to attenuate it.

I prefer the Mega Drive / Genesis 2 cable also, allows for more video out options like component via HD Retrovision and the new stuff RetroGamingCables is doing. Also drops 12 components from the PCB.
Well now I'm glad I hadn't ordered PCBs yet. Do you know yet what other BOM changes there will be besides the connector?
 
There will be a few changes but nothing major. 4 x 0.1uF, 4 x 330uF, 4 x 75R and 1 x 150R are removed from the Mega Drive version, with 1 x 1K resistor added.
 
I dabbled a bit with the idea of an MD9 version since so many people asked about it and I came to the conclusion that the MD8 version makes actually more sense since it is a dedicated pinout for RGB mods implying that the outputs are 75ohm attenuated and DC biased.

This is just my 2 cents, but by removing those components is this not opening the door to people plugging in an inappropriate Genesis cable (without or with improper) components inside? Thus bringing back “are superguns safe for your equipment?” question.

Another thing that comes up is I don’t know how the current design can handle the varying level of TTL sync given by JAMMA boards (let’s face it, these things aren’t outputting the exact same specs) and attenuating that within TV standards with a fixed value.
 
Valid point but Mega Drive cables adhere to a standard and all of the ones I've purchased have adhered to that standard, including cheaper ones from eBay / AliExpress.

Re sync, I've not come across a PCB that outputs a full 5Vpp signal, it's typically around 4Vpp to 4.5Vpp. Even with a full 5V sync level the output will never exceed 0.6Vpp.
 
But will the level be too low is my thought? I think the MD9 should be an option, but I’d keep the attenuated MD8 as well, since it is still very relevant to have an attenuated output device.
 
Oh yes, I plan on running two versions, one doesn't overtake the other.

I left sync a little higher as devices can handle a combined sync signal of 0.6V per horizontal and vertical (0.3V each), and devices such as the OSSC can handle up to 1V. I also discovered with some CRT monitors such as the Commodore 1084 and certain PVM / BVMs, 0.3V was inadequate.
 
Hi all

Need a little help with 2 questions if possible please.

1, I have the REV 2.5 but where does the voltmeter solder to the board as its not mentioned on the bom or the PCB now as far as I can tell unless I am missing something obvious. Im guess its either H2 or H3?

2, I noticed a PSX to DB15 in the link below and as I have a few spare PS2 controllers this would be my preferred choice for now to use. Is there a schematic where we can download and make them ourselves or do we have to purchase these from a shop and if so can someone provide me with a link please.

Minigun Supergun - An Open Source Supergun

Thanks in advance.
 
the voltmeter 2 wires get soldered into the tiny + and - through holes.
 
Hi. I have been following this project for a while and finally took the plunge into the NeoGeo world, thanks to the work by Frank. However, I am having (I believe) an issue with the sync output. I am currently getting a black screen and my OSSC states that no sync is found.


I have assembled a v1.7 board as you can see below, I am competent at soldering but I am trying to figure out if I have made any mistake that I am unable to recognize. I have traced most of the video circuitry and it seems correct according to the schematic. I have also checked that the voltages across the 75 ohm resistors on the output are approximately 400mV.

The oscilloscope image that I am showing is for I believe is the cross hatch pattern since I do not have a cart in. The R-G-B signals are at least in the ball park, but the sync signal (Yellow) is actually carrying a negative voltage, as you can see by the cursors BY and AY.

Yellow line= Sync signal
Cyan line = Red signal
Pink line = Blue signal
Blue line = Green signal

Any help would be greatly appreciated and thanks again to Frank for this great project.

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@bandit412


What kind of NeoGeo do you have?
The OSSC sync settings needs to be tuned from accepting basically 0 lag in the sync to several ns. if you use the "older" ones like the MV1FZ (got the china edition of this one). Follow the settings http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php?title=Neo_Geo_MVS

I only had to adjust the Hsync Tolerance.

edit: I also reacted on the negative voltage, but both the NeoGeos I've scoped have this pattern. I'm using an analoge scope. My 1C works without adjustments, but I would try the suggested settings above.
 
Hi @vidarw

It is an MV-1C also. I tried connecting it to the XRGB-Mini using FirebrandX's Neogeo profile and also with SYNC_MODE set to OFF as suggested in your link and still no image. Unfortunately, I do not have a monitor that accepts RGB through BNC so I am stuck with having to go through either the OSSC or XRGB-Mini.

I also noticed that the 3rd line on the XRGB-Mini's input status page (attached) shows no resolution and an odd value for the frequency which should be approx. 60Hz.
 

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Hej @Frank_fjs,

I donated some money for your nice work! Buy yourself a beer to relax a bit or a coffee that you enjoy while working on a new minigun version. Maybe something totally different:D I think you will find something nice :)

Thank you very much!
 
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