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You are welcome!

Currently I have no plans running an other board or controller with the supergun, so this solution is perfect for me. Maybe some day I'll use and other board or controller. Then I'll change it :)
 
Mini DIN 9 (SEGA Mega Drive / Genesis 2 connector) is up, check main post for download.

Main notable differences (please read last bullet point):
  • Mini DIN 8 connector removed and replaced with a Mini DIN 9 connector.
  • Video output capacitors and resistors removed due to them being situated inside a Mega Drive 2 video cable.
  • THS7374 power capacitors are now both surface mount.
  • Added a jumper header to toggle 75 Ohm or TTL level sync. This is required due to variations within Mega Drive 2 video cables.
    • If you are utilizing a video cable that is wired for sync over composite video or one that has NO passive components on the sync or composite video line, please select 75Ω sync.
    • If you are utilizing a video cable wired for TTL (CSYNC) and one that contains a resistor and capacitor along the sync line, please select TTL sync.
Annotation 2020-07-04 134959.png
Hey Frank, it looks like on this new version of the minigun you are simply directly connecting the Csync and Composite Video pins on your mini Din 9. Might I suggest doing what I did on my nanogun variant where I sent 75ohm Csync to the composite video pin, and TTL to the csync pin? That way you don't need a jumper to switch and you don't run the risk of someone unknowingly connecting a sync on composite cable with the TTL jumper set.
 
That's a splendid idea.

I was aiming for complete control via the jumper however the same outcome can be achieved via cable selection.
 
Hey guys, completely new, i got the boards and parts, i was just thinking, getting that weird video connector/cable is very hard to come by. can i just put there some SCART port?
 
Hey guys, completely new, i got the boards and parts, i was just thinking, getting that weird video connector/cable is very hard to come by. can i just put there some SCART port?
If you are building the mini din 8 version, then yes you could wire up a SCART port instead. But I don't recommend that.
 
RetroGamingCables, Retro Accessories, Tim Worthington etc all sell the appropriate cable. Alternatively you can build one of my scart to mini din adapters and use a regular mini din 8 cable.

I think ultimately the Mega Drive 2 standard is the better cable for superguns to support. Easier to obtain and a lot more options exist beyond regular RGB scart output, such as component and HDMI.
 
No. :)

The regular version of the Minigun utilises mini din 8 and I've released a separate product to break this out into scart.
 
I think ultimately the Mega Drive 2 standard is the better cable for superguns to support. Easier to obtain and a lot more options exist beyond regular RGB scart output, such as component and HDMI.
ATX connector for Power and Mega Drive 2 cable are my choices for a SuperGun...
 
Mine too, re ATX and MD2.

ATX is ideal as even if you're not inclined to use an ATX it (the ATX connector) still offers the versatility of connecting an arcade PSU via a wire harness that's no more difficult nor expensive to build. You can use an ATX power supply, Pico power supply or an arcade power supply, pretty versatile. Use ATX and you even have a power switch you can place on the supergun.
 
True, however a polarity inverter board is easy to include. I did this with the Sentinel, negative 5V is generated onboard the supergun from the +12V line. Easy as, now we have ATX and neg 5.
 
Hello all, I built my first MiniGuns (3, because OSHPark) back when it was version 1.1. I have really loved it, and use them often. I was shocked when I checked back in on this project and saw it was up to version 2.5... what great progress. I wanted to get some new ones built, and was placing my PCB order... and for some reason I got the wild idea to order a bunch of boards. One thing lead to another and I now have a reflow oven and a bunch of other new toys to assemble these boards. As such, I am going to be building and selling these on ebay for those who dont want to take on the project on their own. I considered just selling boards with the SMD stuff on it, but I have found that it is best to build out the whole board and test it. There are a few things that can go wrong like bridges on the video chip and no connects on the DIP switch package (that package sucks Frank... it is the only thing that I dont like). I also have an order in for the new minidin9 boards because they seem to use most of the same parts... so I can just make the boards on demand depending on what people want.

While this seems like self promotion, and it kind of is, that isnt the intention... why I am really posting is because in trying to figure out what may have buyers confused I have put together a that I am putting in each box and I wanted to post it here as somewhat of the missing manual. I will update it when I get a minidin9 board made.

Also, I have a listing with a case that I designed. I was originally going to use the other 3D printed design (Pacifier case), but it turned out that it didnt work with the black jamma connectors I bought a ton of. So I designed a case from scratch (but it is similar). When I get some time I will post it to thingiverse for everyone to enjoy. If you plan to use a case beware you should be 8mm standoffs for the voltmeter and 22mm tall buttons. I am thinking about designing a case that can use the standard height buttons... but I already have enough to do.

Lastly, I am sending Frank some money from each sale. After everything is said and done, I dont make much off these, and its less than minimum wage when you consider how much time it takes to build one. I am doing this mostly because it seems like a fun project and there doesnt seem to be many good options for those who cant (or dont want to) solder.

MiniGun25BlackCase.jpg
 

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@RockyArcade is it the one with the Genesis port?
No I only have the minidin8 version right now, the MiniDin9 version is the Genesis port. I have a bunch of those on order too. Looks like it will be another week before I get the boards. I guess I should place my mouser order for connectors and the new caps now.

I also just ordered the RAD2X... I am hoping the RAD2X with the Genesis 2 connector can support the arcade resolutions from lots of my boards. Right now I either use the OSSC (love it), or I have a SCART to HDMI converter that I got on Amazon and it seems to work on about half of my arcade boards. I am really hoping that the RAD2X can replace all of that.
 
Yeah that's what I'm hoping to do. I do the same with my OSSC but it would be nice to take it to a friend's place and have less stuff to lug around
 
That's a splendid idea.

I was aiming for complete control via the jumper however the same outcome can be achieved via cable selection.
Perhaps you could set it up where 75ohm Csync is always sent to the Composite pin, but you could still have the TTL/75ohm jumper for the Csync pin for people who have custom cables/special circumstances. That would be safer because no matter how the jumper is set it would be safe to use with any stock cable.
 
That is a great idea @Arthrimus, thanks!

While I have you, it would be totally fantastic if I could incorporate your button remapping functionality into the next and upcoming supergun I'm planning. I'm at a comfy enough level with Arduino where I could do it myself, but why reinvent the wheel so to speak. Thoughts?
 
@RockyArcade

Thanks!

You could change the THS7374 to a 7316 which is a lot easier to solder and doesn't lose any significant functionality.

I'll have a read through the PDF manual and let you know what I think.
 
I also just ordered the RAD2X... I am hoping the RAD2X with the Genesis 2 connector can support the arcade resolutions from lots of my boards. Right now I either use the OSSC (love it), or I have a SCART to HDMI converter that I got on Amazon and it seems to work on about half of my arcade boards. I am really hoping that the RAD2X can replace all of that.
The RAD2X cable works quite very well with my MVS boards! The picture is real sharp. The only thing I'm missing are scan lines...
 
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