99% finished putting this together but a couple questions- The jumpers for H2 and H3, what are they used for? Also in this area, how does the Voltmeter fit here if those jumpers are there? I want to put the voltmeter in, so where is the best spot to solder the wires? Was just thinking about this now, but is H2/H3 actually solder points for the Voltmeter, obviously depending on which direction it is installed?
- Thread starter Frank_fjs
- Start date
H2 and H3 are indeed spots to wire a voltmeter to, pending orientation. They don't need a physical header pin installed as such, you can solder the wires straight into the holes.
H4 is a spare auxillary header, in case power is needed for any form of external accessory.
H4 is a spare auxillary header, in case power is needed for any form of external accessory.
I'll have a look.
The cheap, generic, Chinese ones from AliExpress and the like do fit. Same pinout and function etc, not a perfect fit but they fit well enough.
The cheap, generic, Chinese ones from AliExpress and the like do fit. Same pinout and function etc, not a perfect fit but they fit well enough.
I just soldered together the first MicroGun.
It works perfectly. I am so relieved, happy, excited and to be honest, kind of emotional.
More info to come, right now I just want to play some games.
It works perfectly. I am so relieved, happy, excited and to be honest, kind of emotional.
More info to come, right now I just want to play some games.
Raph_friend
Grand Master
So it's time for my beta testing???
pacoarcade
Professional
That's pretty cool! congratulations 
C1 and C2 are for audio, right? why ceramic instead of electrolytics? from what I've read, electrolytics are better suited for this application being more linear and having a similar sized footprint.
C1 and C2 are for audio, right? why ceramic instead of electrolytics? from what I've read, electrolytics are better suited for this application being more linear and having a similar sized footprint.
Thanks!
Re the audio caps, trust me I did extensive testing as I had the same concerns as you. In this application ceramics perform admirably, the output is crisp, clean and distortion free. I've had the circuit tested with a scope and even under stress (max volume output) voltage never exceeds a safe line level.
The reason for ceramics is I have these machine soldered and they were the best fit for this.
Re the audio caps, trust me I did extensive testing as I had the same concerns as you. In this application ceramics perform admirably, the output is crisp, clean and distortion free. I've had the circuit tested with a scope and even under stress (max volume output) voltage never exceeds a safe line level.
The reason for ceramics is I have these machine soldered and they were the best fit for this.
Better pic of the PCB.
Only 2 x cosmetic issues to resolve.
The logo (bottom right corner) is supposed to have the text MicroGun printed within it. Initially I intended on printing it on the copper layer for a cool look, decided to print it on the silkscreen layer instead however I neglected to change some settings to do so.
The 3.5mm audio jack is intended to be mounted on the topside of the PCB. Currently it is mounted to the bottom side due to an error in the PCB footprint which mirrored the pins. Doesn't affect functionality, just looks really.
Only 2 x cosmetic issues to resolve.
The logo (bottom right corner) is supposed to have the text MicroGun printed within it. Initially I intended on printing it on the copper layer for a cool look, decided to print it on the silkscreen layer instead however I neglected to change some settings to do so.
The 3.5mm audio jack is intended to be mounted on the topside of the PCB. Currently it is mounted to the bottom side due to an error in the PCB footprint which mirrored the pins. Doesn't affect functionality, just looks really.
It looks really slick @Frank_fjs. Except for the MASSIVE ATX connector 
. I (kind of) get why people want to use ATX supplies. But I greatly prefer an arcade supply.
. I (kind of) get why people want to use ATX supplies. But I greatly prefer an arcade supply.
It's not like the ATX added to the width of the PCB as I needed the width to accommodate the MDIN9, 3.5mm jack and VGA connector.
So had I used a smaller power connector suited solely for an arcade PSU, there would just be dead space there and no easy way of utilising an ATX should one desire.
Also, ATX provides a power switch onboard the supergun, no exposed mains power and more flexibility in selecting a PSU.
Don't like ATX? Cool, I respect that, don't use it. Connect an arcade PSU via an ATX to arcade PSU terminal harness. Either way fabrication of a harness is necessary so why close doors and permit just arcade PSUs.
So had I used a smaller power connector suited solely for an arcade PSU, there would just be dead space there and no easy way of utilising an ATX should one desire.
Also, ATX provides a power switch onboard the supergun, no exposed mains power and more flexibility in selecting a PSU.
Don't like ATX? Cool, I respect that, don't use it. Connect an arcade PSU via an ATX to arcade PSU terminal harness. Either way fabrication of a harness is necessary so why close doors and permit just arcade PSUs.
You could have placed all the switches, jumpers, and buttons spread around the PCB neatly along the side. That would make them easily accessible if the MicroGun was in a case.
End of the day my complaint about the ATX connector is very minor. I still greatly look forward to firing up a MicroGun in anger.
Besides, you'll soon forget about your ATX rage when you look at your monitor and experience perfect colour balance, brightness adjusted with ease and the most vibrant and clear image you've ever seen. 
