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Minor update coming today. Just cosmetic improvements really, with the silkscreen and some trace work tweaks.

I've got a digikey order inbound today so I will be able to verify parts suitability.

Also received a mini DIN 8 cable that I ordered from RGC. It performs exceptionally well. Crystal clear video and audio, great quality connectors and wiring with above adequate shielding.

I also ordered and received one of Tim Worthington's DIN 8 scart kits.

Owning both, my vote goes towards the RGC cable. I do prefer that Tim's kit utilises a DC voltage converter to output proper voltage to scart pins 8 and 16, but that's about it. The included mini DIN 8 cable is of low quality, non-shielded and one of the connectors is already loose and wonky. The internal wiring is super high gauge and I find it leads to interference on bright screens with a slight audio hum, regardless of whether the external 3.5mm audio cable is used.

I can't fault the performance of the RGC cable. Zero video / audio interference. Just a bit pricey but I'd rather spend more and only have to buy it once.
 
I've added an LPF switch. I don't personally think it's necessary but it was a trivial thing to add and hasn't impacted on the design of the PCB in a negative way.

I'm leaning towards dropping the STANDARD edition, it seems redundant now and only having to concentrate on a single PCB will allow for more resources to be poured into it. The ADVANCED version is much more capable with a better video circuit, stereo audio support, same physical dimensions, neater trace work due to SMD components and really isn't significantly more difficult or time consuming to assemble... Thoughts?
 
I'd keep both. The standard still has it's plus side.
 
New version up, version 1.2b, main post updated with new/more information.

Standard just sees some tidying up.

Advanced is tidied up and adds the LPF switch.

I'd suggest that I'm at/near the end up updates. Everything is looking good, working well, and I crammed more features in than I ever intended.

Digi-Key parts never arrived, despite tracking suggesting that they would. UPS is lame.
 
In the Supplementary Parts section I'd recommend Suzo 42PP0606 (Mean Well MWP-606) instead of RT-125A since RT125A, according to datasheets, has more Ripple Current (80mVpp vs 50mVpp for +5V) and it doesn't work well with Neo Geo MV1B due to low load.

Apart from that, I think it's possible it lacks "soft start". 42PP0606 has a thermistor in the input that I can't find in the RT-125A (I have both)
 
Thanks! I'll add that PSU to the list.

I'm no expert regarding PSUs, picked up the RT-125A as it seemed like a good PSU and has worked well for me thus far. What's the minimum load for it to operate, 1 amp or so?
 
SUZO/Prima Power 42PP0606 (Mean Well MWP-606) is hands down the best imo. I've been also using the RT-85A for a while now, and I'm quite happy with it, too. I remember that initially I wasn't impressed with it, but that was years ago at a different place, perhaps the house wiring was contributing to the video and audio noise I was seeing.
 
Looks like the 125 has a 2 amp minimum load on the +5V line.

I was going to buy an 85 as it's more compact, but the 125 was cheaper and I figured having the extra power wouldn't hurt.
 
I have an RD65A which works well, it's great how compact it is. Doesn't have -5V but that's not a major issue.
 
RT-125A emits a high pitched noise and the led blinks when connected to the MV1B.

One downside of the 42PP0606 is the use of low quality CapXon and Jamicon capacitors, but this can be solved with adequate Panasonic / Rubycon replacements. I have read that 42PP0606's +5V adjuster solder tends to crack, so I have replaced it with quality solder too.

I recommend -5V support since some games need it (like Bad Dudes or Crime City)
 
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Any idea why I cant add the 330 uf 10v caps on digikey? It says over 6k in stock but no add to cart button.
 
Here's a likely dumb question from someone who doesn't know much about electronics.

I just finished assembling a Standard board and noticed that I forgot to order a 33uF bi-polar capacitor. Can I use a 33uF polar capacitor that I have, on hand, as a replacement?
 
You can use two normal electrolytics in series of double the value of the original bipolar ones. (+) --||-- (-) --||-- (+) ¿Does this scheme make sense? just connect the negative legs of the two capacitors and use the positive leads as the new capacitor.

Nichicon UEP (UEP1C330MDD) are maybe a better option since they are rated 105ºC, that means longer life. They are cost a bit more, though.
 
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Perfect! Thank you!

I'll be making the video and power cables this weekend and I'll follow up once I have everything tested.
 
Re components, you don't need to rigidly follow the digi-key links. Feel free to use any brand you wish, from any supplier.

Re the voltmeter, I can't find a way of making it happen without comprising the PCB. One could just solder it to the jamma pins and attach to the jamma edge.
 
Any idea why I cant add the 330 uf 10v caps on digikey? It says over 6k in stock but no add to cart button.
Seems to be an IT issue with the site. I contacted customer service and they couldn't help. I'd just choose a different brand and be done with it.
 
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