- Thread starter Frank_fjs
- Start date
I kind of agree with you. Personally, I don't utilise PCB feet / standoffs as:I'm not certain I like the tabs for the screw mounts. I'm going to have to rethink the design of my case to accommodate those, since I'm using the screw holes to bind it together. Or just have them sticking out of the case, if that's possible? I understand how they can be a cool feature for standoffs and they leave more room for the layout. I'm particularly worried that the tabs closest to the JAMMA connector my come in conflict with the screws coming from the JAMMA connector perpendicular.Here's where I'm heading for version 2.0:
I believe this approach fixes the DB15 spacing issue and provides additional mounting options without comprising the DB15s being centred nor the general design and layout that I like. I might move the tactile switches to the farthermost right edge too. Any feedback welcome, the sooner the better before I begin finalising the design and fabricating some test PCBs.
- DB15s further spaced apart to resolve 2 x Undamned encoders not fitting side by side.
- Tabs with 3mm holes added to each corner of the PCB to accommodate PCB feet / standoffs / mounting / plexi base attachment etc.
Once I have the layout sorted, my next step will be a 3/4 player expansion board and down the track a video expansion board. The video expansion board will provide composite video, s-video, RCA audio output and a VGA connector designed for use with an OSSC.
1. The Minigun is light weight and compact and doesn't place significant stress on the jamma finger of the game board.
2. All my game PCBs are at different heights so PCB feet can actually make things worse in some scenarios. E.g. CPS2 sits lower, some boards don't have feet at all etc.
3. Since you've designed an awesome 3D printable case, it kind of negates the need for holes on the PCB.
If I omit the tabs it should make your life a lot easier re the 3D enclosure. You will need to space the DB15s 1mm further apart and accomodate for the tactile switches being shifted over to the right. I love the case you've designed, and am very near ordering some PCBs for version 2, I'd gladly send you an assembled V2 at no cost if you'd be kind enough to redesign the 3D case to suit?
confirmed that exact voltometer (i got from online auction site for very cheap) fits just fine with some good double sided tape between the 1P DB15 and the R/G/B pots. Wired/soldered directly to the electrolytic cap between the pots and the THS amp.
@Frank_fjs thanks a lot for this great device, once I sell some units I'll be sending you a nice donation
If you ever come up to Sydney msg me i'd gladly take you for a beer or invite you to play some games ! cheers
edit: @Frank_fjs NP I have various whisky bottles around my house, all decent drops.
Looks great and functions well This is using a digikey Meanwell 85 PSU.
@Frank_fjs thanks a lot for this great device, once I sell some units I'll be sending you a nice donation
If you ever come up to Sydney msg me i'd gladly take you for a beer or invite you to play some games ! cheersedit: @Frank_fjs NP I have various whisky bottles around my house, all decent drops.
Looks great and functions well
This is using a digikey Meanwell 85 PSU.
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@Frank_fjs Would something like this one work for the volt meter? If not can you provide link to one that will please. Also i see them coming 2 and 3 wire version. Will it matter?
Ebay Volt Meter
Ebay Volt Meter
That would work but it's a little bit big for the compact nature of the Minigun. Stick with two wire versions.
The ones from Digi-Key I screen shot above are better.
Aliexpress also have suitable ones:
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cGomnSDa
The ones from Digi-Key I screen shot above are better.
Aliexpress also have suitable ones:
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cGomnSDa
Thanks for taking my comments into consideration, I'm happy to hear you aren't a fan of the standoffs either
Like you said, the minigun is small enough not to cause significant stress on the JAMMA connector unless someone really tugs on a cable or leans on it, but that is the same with any supergun really. For most of my boards without standoffs, right now the minigun just lays flat on the table, no need for support at all.I am currently using the 2 holes at the back to secure both parts of the case, but I think it would be possible for this to be done differently if there are no holes in the PCB. ie. make the case walls thicker in the corners and have screws there.
I should have no issue with the layout changes since most of my design is parametric. If you can supply a v2 unit, that will make the work even faster and easier, so that's great!
The third (in my case it was a yellow wire) is often used to accommodate higher voltage readings (30-100v), in the case of this PCB, you dont go any higher than 5 or 12v, so I removed the yellow wire and bridged the yellow and red wires on the actual voltmeter itself.
Yes I got mine from ebay for a few dollars each. I cant decide if yellow or blue looks better. Green is good too
@Frank_fjs I would like to try some stuff with the audio. My first option would be to reverse the use of the audio jack port, making it an input port (useful for my Capcom CPS2 which has q-sound audio out RCA's, with the audio outputting direct to the 8 pin mini din). Alternatively I would like to use a dummy headphone jack to 'disable' the audio going to the 8 pin mini din, then solder wires from the Capcom CPS2 RCA q-sound audio ports (via a cable) to the left and right channel on the 8 pin mini din solder pads. Will the first option be viable ?
Turns out this is a bad idea. The HD retrovision genesis cable uses composite for sync not csync.
I'm using a Retrotink now and don't have any scart stuff yet, guess its time to try a shinybow?
If you have an attenuated 75 ohm csync signal, you can connect that to composite and the HDRV cables will accept it just fine. Their design strips csync from composite.
@evilsim
I did the same thing with the sentinel. I incorporated a DP3T switch to alternate between mono / stereo / audio off. When utilising the 3.5mm audio jack as an input one could simply set this switch to OFF in order to disable audio output from the jamma edge. The 3.5mm jack wasn't wired as a switch, it simply connected straight to the video out DIN. This means that the 3.5mm jack can operate as an audio output or input. It really all comes down to that switch, to use the 3.5mm as an input you need to disable audio output.
Without a switch to disable audio output I can't think of another way to retain both features. I.e. being able to utilise the 3.5mm as an input while still having the ability to cut audio to the DIN.
I did the same thing with the sentinel. I incorporated a DP3T switch to alternate between mono / stereo / audio off. When utilising the 3.5mm audio jack as an input one could simply set this switch to OFF in order to disable audio output from the jamma edge. The 3.5mm jack wasn't wired as a switch, it simply connected straight to the video out DIN. This means that the 3.5mm jack can operate as an audio output or input. It really all comes down to that switch, to use the 3.5mm as an input you need to disable audio output.
Without a switch to disable audio output I can't think of another way to retain both features. I.e. being able to utilise the 3.5mm as an input while still having the ability to cut audio to the DIN.
For a crude and easy solution, why not:
Tape off pins 10 and L from the jamma finger on your CPS2 motherboard. This will disable jamma (mono) audio output.
On the Minigun you will need to bridge the pair of pins of the 3.5mm jack. This will allow audio fed into the 3.5mm jack to be output through the video out DIN.
Tape off pins 10 and L from the jamma finger on your CPS2 motherboard. This will disable jamma (mono) audio output.
On the Minigun you will need to bridge the pair of pins of the 3.5mm jack. This will allow audio fed into the 3.5mm jack to be output through the video out DIN.
Thanks @Frank_fjs for the info. Very helpful.Version 2 will accommodate the following voltmeter.
Do you have the schematic available for the audio circuit?
I'm a bit curious about how the audio is line level converted.
Edit: Looks like:
amp+(jamma) -> 820R -> 33uF ->
-> 35RAPC4BH3(L)
-> 35RAPC4BH3(R)
-> 220R -> GND
For mono
I'm a bit curious about how the audio is line level converted.
Edit: Looks like:
amp+(jamma) -> 820R -> 33uF ->
-> 35RAPC4BH3(L)
-> 35RAPC4BH3(R)
-> 220R -> GND
For mono
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I have a few of those
I used to sell em pre-built on ebay, but last time I visited Tim he had no stock. Good call forgot about the input-audio socket on those.
Barth0lin0
Professional
Hey Guys! New member here and proud owner of a @arcadeqc hand-made V1.7 Advanced MiniGun Supergun
What a nice project @Frank_fjs . Thx for everything you do
I'm wondering if someone have info/pics of the Minigun used with a kick harness. Does it need a custom wiring or a pre-made harness to supergun cable exists on the market?
thx
Simon
What a nice project @Frank_fjs . Thx for everything you do
I'm wondering if someone have info/pics of the Minigun used with a kick harness. Does it need a custom wiring or a pre-made harness to supergun cable exists on the market?
thx
Simon
I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure you'll need to wire up your own. I don't think there's any JST XH to CPS2 cables out there with the correct pinout already.
