If its not too off topic, whats your design process like for minigun (and I guess sentinel too)? Are you starting out in EasyEDA or is there a step on paper or other tools before? Non-PCB prototyping? Just interested in how you got to this point. Seems like the availability of cheap and fast PCBs really speeds things up for design?
- Thread starter Frank_fjs
- Start date
Depends on my knowledge on the subject, generally I just start with an idea and take it straight to design.
Heaps of scribbled schematics on paper followed by breadboarding usually.
Heaps of scribbled schematics on paper followed by breadboarding usually.
Hey @Frank_fjs,
I just want to say thank you for all your great work!
I was able to consolize my MV1C this weekend and test it out with your awesome Superguns I've just finished last weekend!
-kinox51
I just want to say thank you for all your great work!
I was able to consolize my MV1C this weekend and test it out with your awesome Superguns I've just finished last weekend!
-kinox51
Attachments
Where did you pick up that (acrylic?) MV1C case?
-kinox51
Actually, looking at the advanced version of the schematic, that also seems incorrect?
The trimpot pin2's are grounded there, when they should be the outputs to the IC. (board layout is fine, just the PDF that looks incorrect to me)
Okay thanks, I'll take a look at the schematic and correct it for next release. 
I've ordered the PCBs for version 2.0. They should land end of week. Once I've confirmed everything is working nicely I'll release the files here.
@xodaraP informed me of something which is super useful and I didn't know existed. Mean-well have an official cover for their PSUs! I feel much safer not having exposed terminals. I ordered a bunch from Digi-Key, they're a measly $40c each or so. I'll add the part to the BOM next release.
I've ordered the PCBs for version 2.0. They should land end of week. Once I've confirmed everything is working nicely I'll release the files here.
@xodaraP informed me of something which is super useful and I didn't know existed. Mean-well have an official cover for their PSUs! I feel much safer not having exposed terminals. I ordered a bunch from Digi-Key, they're a measly $40c each or so. I'll add the part to the BOM next release.
Barth0lin0
Professional
Thx, this is what i tought! any idea where i could get the correct pinout schematics?
the minigun has a silkscreen on the bottom side that says which pin is which.
Cps2 is here: https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Kick_Harness#CPS2.2FCPS3_-_2_Player_Harness
Barth0lin0
Professional
thx!!
@Frank_fjs @xodaraP awesome - ill have to add one to my next order, thanks.
meanwhile I added an illuminated switch to my Meanwell 85. There is barely enough room in there for the AC cable and the wiring. All the input wiring is on the inside now. Had to make some room on the side to run the power cable in with my dremel and some pliers.
Well shit. I finally bought a Suzo Happ over the Mean-well because of the announced 3D printed terminal cover. It costed $15 shipped.. as opposed to 40 cents?! I even have to go in there and shave some of the plastic because it won't go down all the way.Okay thanks, I'll take a look at the schematic and correct it for next release.
I've ordered the PCBs for version 2.0. They should land end of week. Once I've confirmed everything is working nicely I'll release the files here.
@xodaraP informed me of something which is super useful and I didn't know existed. Mean-well have an official cover for their PSUs! I feel much safer not having exposed terminals. I ordered a bunch from Digi-Key, they're a measly $40c each or so. I'll add the part to the BOM next release.
I kept meaning to pull the trigger on one of these but each week more improvements rolled in. When the 2.0 hits and a 3D printed case is available is when I will finally pull the trigger. Hoping for optional voltmeter support. Cheers
xodaraP
Legendary
I don't see why it wouldn't be, but I don't really see any benefit either unless the cage itself is earthed? Isn't the frame ground just going to be tied back to earth anyway?
I like the switch installed on the cage itself. I would like to do something similar.
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The only reason I wired it like that (from the start) is I researched how other people were doing it with their jamma boards and this is how I saw it done, so I replicated. If you guys recommend against, I'll remove it.
I don't know if I have any interference without it I've never tried. I was getting some audio buzz but it turned out that was because I was looping the audio through my JVC crt, which I have now rerouted and have crispy clear sound. The meanwell is on the same powerboars as the JVC but everything seems fine..
This is my first arcade project, coming from a background of electronics and home console modding. I am happy to learn from others experiences, always (ノ
)ノ
I don't know if I have any interference without it I've never tried. I was getting some audio buzz but it turned out that was because I was looping the audio through my JVC crt, which I have now rerouted and have crispy clear sound. The meanwell is on the same powerboars as the JVC but everything seems fine..
This is my first arcade project, coming from a background of electronics and home console modding. I am happy to learn from others experiences, always (ノ
)ノ
With the FG to common, I had to do it on my Japanese superguns to fix video noise. The first thing I usually to with them is swap them to an Australian 3 pin cable and I Earth the metal case (the Japanese don't Earth them).
On the Sony PVMs the BNC Commons on the video inputs are tied to frame ground anyway so doing this makes no difference in my particular instance. I would do it if I didn't need to.
On the Sony PVMs the BNC Commons on the video inputs are tied to frame ground anyway so doing this makes no difference in my particular instance. I would do it if I didn't need to.
I honestly don't know the implications either way. I'm asking as I don't like to mess with power supplies / dangerous voltages so if someone who's an authority on the matter can chime in that would be greatly appreciated.
Just seems odd to me that they wouldn't do it internally if it were meant to be that way. I have other traditional arcade PSUs that do tie all the grounds together however I gather the intention here is to fit the PSU into an arcade cab which then grounds the metal case of the PSU with the cab's earth ground.
Just seems odd to me that they wouldn't do it internally if it were meant to be that way. I have other traditional arcade PSUs that do tie all the grounds together however I gather the intention here is to fit the PSU into an arcade cab which then grounds the metal case of the PSU with the cab's earth ground.
As I understand it, in my scenario I am doing it to stop anything flowing to ground via the shielding of my SCART lead and causing video interference because without the wire on the power supply, it flows that way to the BNC grounds on the PVM, through the monitor chassis to the mains ground on the PVM since it's connected that way.
TL
R I'm adding a solid connection for connectivity that's there already.
TL
R I'm adding a solid connection for connectivity that's there already.
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V2
Changes from V1.7:
Changes from V1.7:
- DB15s spaced further apart to fit 2 x UD encoders
- Voltmeter mounting holes and connection pads added
- Silkscreen flipped to be readable when looking at opposing end to jamma connector
- LPF and AUDIO switches replaced with header pin / jumper shunt
