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Ming Dong's (I always laugh a little inside when I say that, I'm immature :P ) are not quality power supplies. They're cheap and mass produced, easily available etc but certainly not a quality PSU from my own personal experience.

If something drastic has changed within their design, manufacturing and components used I'm ready to give them another try, but I remain sceptical.
 
I don't want to judge people based on their money or spending habits or anything but ...

All this effort to get these nice cabs, nice superguns, nice PCBs, and you're gonna cheap out and get some shit power supply that might end up frying all of it one day?

This isn't a place to try and save $10. Just get a real brand.
 
I do wish someone would scope them all. Happ. Mean-Well, this new Ming dong (which is getting a lot of attention recently I think because @GC8TECH recommended them, recently)

I’d chip in for the research. I’m also skeptical about this brand. Maybe just the Chinese knock-off stereotype blinding me though. I’d trust data.

Hell, I have a few already, and a rigol, but no idea how to test properly!

For all I know the happs are trash because they outsourced them or something. But it’s what I use.
 
Ming Dong PSU are utter shite. Like @Aurich said, do not risk plugging your nice PCB games into a Dong.
 
Ming Dong PSU are utter shite. Like @Aurich said, do not risk plugging your nice PCB games into a Dong.
I must be using a different Ming Dom.. Cause i have used around 75 to 100 of them.. and they work really well.. I even have them in applications were they draw more than 5 amps on the 5V rail... IF they were total shit.. i would have seen that by now.... I'm using the ones WITH -5V.. There is one WITH OUT -5V.. maybe its this one that has issues??

They DO have a new revision that's in the "Grey" cases instead of the "Army Green". I haven't uses tons of the new revs.. BUT its something to note.. IF i get a chance i'll strip one open and do a report on it :) Maybe a compare between the old and new versions.. sound like a good video to make :)

Tim.
 
@GC8TECH is a full time arcade tech who looks over 170ish cabinets, so I tend to trust when he says that he has problems with Happs and prefers the components in the Min Dongs. He puts Mean Well QP-200-3As in 3.3V cabs, so maybe use that if you want the best of the best. My guess is that if you open up a new Happ, you're just going to see the cheapest possible Chinese components that are in all of these things.

I feel like cheap PSUs like ATX power supplies and laptop bricks don't belong anywhere close to arcade hardware myself.

Update: I opened the Min Dong MD-9916A that I have here for a friend's Neo Geo MVS build, and yeah, it's all Cheng caps inside. Maybe these aren't so great.
 
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Keep this thread on topic please. Start a new thread to talk about Power Dongs.
 
It's all good guys.

I think it's great to have these discussions. Everyone has different experiences / opinions and that's okay. At the end of the day it's all a learning experience and ultimately we're all here to help each other.
 
It's all good guys.

I think it's great to have these discussions. Everyone has different experiences / opinions and that's okay. At the end of the day it's all a learning experience and ultimately we're all here to help each other.
For once.. we agree on something :P

T.
 
It's all good guys.

I think it's great to have these discussions. Everyone has different experiences / opinions and that's okay. At the end of the day it's all a learning experience and ultimately we're all here to help each other.
For once.. we agree on something :P
T.
I disagree :P

We do seem to have differing opinions on some things, it's nothing personal @GC8TECH.

I really respect and appreciate the work you've put into researching and documenting IGS PGM. Thank you for that.
 
4 player hat is coming along.

It docks into the Minigun via the DB15 controller ports and breaks out into 4 controller ports.

34 pin IDC connector wired to PGM pinout for direct connection between Minigun and PGM via an IDC cable.

Other games may utilise a 20 pin DuPont style connector, which inserts into the 34 pin IDC header of the 4P adapter board, and breakout into the needed connector for the game PCB.
4padapt.png
 
Well we'll know if it's a good idea when I order and receive the PCBs.

If it weren't for power requirements I'd do the 4P adapter as a separate / independent PCB.

So you use the same (PGM) pinout? Does this means HAS cables will be compatible?
 
So you use the same (PGM) pinout? Does this means HAS cables will be compatible?
I use the one from the link above. If you use the same, the HAS 3/4 player harnesses will be compatible :) I also added extra connection for the PGM test&service buttons - I don't populate those on my adapters, but they can be handy (they can also serve as volume +/- in the CPS2).

45808256242_1bfff9cb26.jpg
 
That's the pinout I followed. Awesome.

Any chance you'd alter HAS to a mini-fit-jr power connector? :)
 
That's the pinout I followed. Awesome.

Any chance you'd alter HAS to a mini-fit-jr power connector? :)
Please check your silkscreen then, it should go like "Coin, Start, U, D, L, R, A, B, C, D", whereas in your adapter it goes "Coin, Start, D, C, B, A, R, L, D, U".

Regarding the mini-fit - that's something to consider, but definitely not for the current HAS revision.
 
Good pick up, thank you!

Silkscreen is incorrect, I'll rectify that. Thankfully the routing is correct.
 
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