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A question for those using a Meanwell RT-65A... how are you handling the cabling from the PSU to the wall socket? Is this something that's included in the PSU? If not, does anyone sell shielded cables?
People normally use an IEC C13 style power cord. Chop off the IEC C13 plug and solder or crimp on spade terminals.
 
Thanks for the help. I’m gonna go the DIY route, maybe also give additional protection to the wires and get a 3d printed psu cover for sure. Any ideas on how to shield the wires after stripping them? Is it necessary at all?
 
Thanks for the help. I’m gonna go the DIY route, maybe also give additional protection to the wires and get a 3d printed psu cover for sure. Any ideas on how to shield the wires after stripping them? Is it necessary at all?
I solder the spade terminals to the wire. Then use heatshrink tubing to cover the base of the spade terminals.
 
How long does it usually take for something to get to the US via aliexpress? I know it's coming from China but still feels super slow. I think I've been waiting for almost a month now.
 
How long does it usually take for something to get to the US via aliexpress? I know it's coming from China but still feels super slow. I think I've been waiting for almost a month now.
1 - 2 months is normal for AliExpress. It might even take longer if it gets stuck in customs.
 
I tend to pay the extra for the next shipping level with Ali, and items arrive in 2 weeks. Avoid any of their free / budget shipping options.
 
Tracking said it’s left via airplane which is a total lie. It was last known to be in Shanghai which I’m guessing is coming over by boat. And I also ordered these stupid ass cables from eBay for $3 and it looks like it’s stuck in customs. I wish RadioShack never went out of business. I just need some wires!
 
Mini DIN 8 to scart adapter. Loving this thing. Took my time with this one, used a high quality scart connector from my stash that I hoarded away before they were discontinued. Spent the time and care to solder it straight. New 3D printer yielded a much better quality print for the enclosure. Only printed it in white as the printer came with a sample roll of white filament and that's what I've loaded into the printer.

Starting download… 75327060_10218645915352093_7281582507328274432_n.jpg
Starting download… 75640777_10218645914552073_8571153090856615936_n.jpg
 
OSSC version of DIN 2 SCART adapter. No audio, no voltage, and a jumper to select whether sync is output on scart pin 20 or pin 12, the latter being for the OSSC hardware mod for TTL sync over its scart input.

Starting download… 74174094_10218653684026305_3891560272225107968_n.jpg
 
@Frank_fjs I just made up a few syncboosters, tried using the el1881 and the gs4981 IC.
few subtle differences but much of a muchness. Thanks for your great free gerbers etc !

h3NOxB6.jpg
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if anyone wants - I have parts to make 8 more of these, contact me if you want one. $22 each + shipping. I'll have more EL1881 in about 4-5 days.

next up to build are @buffis betsubetsu's - which I will also have spares to sell :) (without the audio parts)
loving the arcade-projects designed projects !

Oh I also have all the parts now to build Minigun 2.5 as well !! msg me if you want to buy. Some proceeds from minigun sales goes direct to the creator !!
 
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So no difference between the ICs to make you chose one over the other?

Did you test it on a 15K RGBHV monitor?

Thanks!
 
well i need to do more testing, i was lazy and just used my OSSC for now.
I tested booting up a gamecube and loading SWISS. SWISS loads in 480p by default.
The EL1881 on RGBHV was fine at 15khz then lost sync altogether at 480p
The GS4981 on RGBHV was not stable at 15khz (OSSC screen was flashing and sync rate was flicking around changing numbers) then when it went to 31khz it did the same thing, but it didnt lose sync like the EL, it just was unstable as hell.

Both were rock solid and fine using CSYNC (even CSYNC over SCART at 480p)
 
I don't believe the OSSC supports 15K RGBHV. I was wondering if you had tried it with a monitor that natively supported it.
 
my OSSC (recent firmware) supports 15k on RGBHV as long as the sync is properly separated to HV it shows on the screen and the light on the OSSC goes green. I can get a photo if you like of it sync'd at 15k
 
my OSSC (recent firmware) supports 15k on RGBHV as long as the sync is properly separated to HV it shows on the screen and the light on the OSSC goes green. I can get a photo if you like of it sync'd at 15k
Not amazing or shocking in any way... But tell me what advantage does separating composite sync have?
 
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