Minigun Supergun - An Open Source Supergun

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    • jassin000 wrote:

      evilsim wrote:

      my OSSC (recent firmware) supports 15k on RGBHV as long as the sync is properly separated to HV it shows on the screen and the light on the OSSC goes green. I can get a photo if you like of it sync'd at 15k
      Not amazing or shocking in any way... But tell me what advantage does separating composite sync have?
      You can use it on AV3.
      -the Goat
      Heliopause Heavy Industries :: video game console repairs and modifications
    • the Goat wrote:

      You can use it on AV3.
      AV3 is a preference, especially now with the sync pin12 mod you don't even need it for Taito F3.
      Remember you'll also lose low pass filtering from the OSSC if you use HD15/AV3 (its only available to SCART/AV1).

      OSSC for the most part hates any type of sync processing... Be it stripping, regenerating, etc.
      Only one case where its necessary and that is again the F3, which you want buffered TTL composite sync leaving your device no matter what port (AV1+mod or AV3) OSSC processes on.

      Virtually everything else should be 75ohm raw (zero processing) composite sync into the OSSC AV1 port.
      Darksoft: CPS3, CPS2, F3, MVS
      RGB: RECO v2, HAS v3
      invzim: Jammafier v1.6b
      XianXi: JNX Raiden, SC Taito Classic, SC Sega System 16/24
      Frank_fjs: JAMMA Extender (Special Edition)

      The post was edited 4 times, last by jassin000 ().

    • New

      Finally received the last thing I needed to get this up and running! Was a scart cable from retro access which took awhile to ship. Waiting on the cable sleeving to make the power cable look pretty but it is pretty much done. I burned some traces on the 7374 because my iron was too hot despite me using tons of flux so that had me worried. When I started my sega16 board I got a black screen. I then noticed the B board wasn't pushed down all the way. Both that, the Neo Geo, and my IGS pictured below boot right up! :thumbup:

      Questions:

      1. IGS PGM doesn't have sound. I tried messing with the dial pot on the side of the board but nothing. I think maybe that dial needs to be replaced. I recapped both the main board and the game so it can't be that. There's nothing special I have to do with the minigun and IGS right?

      2. Also a few pages back I asked about the Taito F3 and how to get that running with this. I am using a Scart > gscartsw > framemeister to output this. I tried hooking up the F3 and got a black screen. I am aware of it's weird sync issues but not sure how to get it running on my setup. Everyone uses OSSC these days and I don't have one of those. Any help on getting a F3 running with the minigun using a framemeister would be appreciated!








      I have a lot of people to thank!

      @evilsim - Thank you for providing the bare pcb's! He sold me a spare 2.1 board but also included a 1.7 freebie!

      @arcadeqc - Thank you for providing these dope ass 3D printed cases for both the 1.7 and 2.1 boards. I have yet to assemble the 1.7 but as you can see the 2.1 looks glorious!

      @Frank_fjs - Thanks for making an open source supergun! This is my first supergun. I was unable to test any of my arcade boards without the laborious task of putting them into my dynamo and messing with the monitor.

      Frank also supplied me with the MD2Neo's so I could actually play the games, and a Sega16toJamma adapter. I believe there is a 4p board in the mail on the way as well. :)
    • New

      Do other boards have sound, just PGM that doesn't?

      Nothing special required in regards to audio for PGM, set the Minigun to MONO and that's it. If other boards are working in relation to audio I'd suspect a fault with the PGM. You can tap audio from the 4P IDC header which may help diagnose.
    • New

      Working on a revised 4P adapter. Simpler and detached from supergun, well in regards to the DB15s anyhow.

      I need to add some more to it before release, namely I'll wire up +5V and ground to the PGM header so it'll be completely standalone sans the 34p IDC cable. Also plan on adding a voltage regulator for use with CPS2 which outputs 12V over the kick harness connector, again making the 4P adapter standalone from the supergun sans the kick harness cable.

      For everything else there's a 2 pin header on both the Minigun and 4P adapter to carry power and ground.

    • New

      woohoo I met a guy who does 3D printing for schools etc and he basically mini-mass produces 3d printed stuff locally.

      I am going to get a bunch of minigun 2.1+ shells printed, the shell from thingverse (with the holes in the top for pot adjustment etc). If anyone is interested i'd be happy to share the good prices on here :) PM ME. I don't expect to have any avail for a few weeks.
      I'll also get some CPS2 LCD screen shells too. And then more stuff.

      Post by djsheep ().

      This post was deleted by the author themselves ().
    • New

      evilsim wrote:

      woohoo I met a guy who does 3D printing for schools etc and he basically mini-mass produces 3d printed stuff locally.

      I am going to get a bunch of minigun 2.1+ shells printed, the shell from thingverse (with the holes in the top for pot adjustment etc). If anyone is interested i'd be happy to share the good prices on here :) PM ME. I don't expect to have any avail for a few weeks.
      I'll also get some CPS2 LCD screen shells too. And then more stuff.
      Interested in CPS2 LCD screen at good price :thumbsup:

      What would be his price on the pgm shells?
      3D printed replacement cases for carts

      Might need to hit you up for one of those sync boosters eventually.
    • New

      @Frank_fjs thanks for this awesome project!

      I ordered some of these pcbs and parts and finally built up the courage to take a crack at it. I am still a newb with soldering but have come a very long way from my first venture into the hobby which was panicking about soldering 4 wires to my DS CPS2 kit :P

      Check it out, I put together my first supergun. I was so pumped when I powered it up and the 5V showed and nothing blew up! I was still a little nervous so I gave it a test run on Ninja Combat LOL.

      Happy to say the thing works great. Tried it on 4 boards so far and everything works great.

      Thanks again. This has really boosted my confidence in being able to keep my head above water in the hobby when I need to roll up my sleeves.
      Images
      • mini1.jpg

        94.16 kB, 1,080×608, viewed 21 times
      • mini2.jpg

        105 kB, 1,080×608, viewed 19 times
    • New

      I am the designer of the 3d printed shell on Thingiverse. I’m already making them available to help fund my work. I have published the files for everyone to print their own and modify, and I encourage everyone to do so. Print them, share them with friends.

      If you take a look at the publishing license, I am using CC-BY-NC-SA, which means that you can’t profit from my work. I’d ask that you respect that.


      evilsim wrote:

      woohoo I met a guy who does 3D printing for schools etc and he basically mini-mass produces 3d printed stuff locally.

      I am going to get a bunch of minigun 2.1+ shells printed, the shell from thingverse (with the holes in the top for pot adjustment etc). If anyone is interested i'd be happy to share the good prices on here :) PM ME. I don't expect to have any avail for a few weeks.
      I'll also get some CPS2 LCD screen shells too. And then more stuff.