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Actually I need a few black and white TVs for repairs so if anyone has any please let me know.
 
Really foolish question, but you turn on the device by pressing the tact switches right? Not by the slide switch? I finally built a 1.7 Standard but haven't populated a few parts yet, especially the tacts.

I wonder if anybody has made a youtube video detailing this device or any revision.
 
Power is controlled externally. There is no power control on the supergun itself.

Please ensure power is completely disabled whilst hooking everything up, then turn power on from the mains.
 
Phew I was worried for a bit, so I must have gotten a defective board. Will have to wait for a bit to test tho.
 
Is the sync booster and the 3/4 player add-ons for sale? And will it work with the minigun 2.1 I have gotten from QCRetro? Would be nice to have Taito F3 support and 3/4 player support.
 
Solved my little problem, I used the wrong size barrel connector with the power adapter. Lights up. Now I have to construct another RGB to Component Video adapter. I've made one for my integrated MVS and it works great.

But reading a few pages back where a user bought the RGB to VGA board makes me wish I also had one. So I should make a cable from this plug if I were to go this route?
s-l500.jpg
 
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Or some reason the 2.5 versions of these boards for super expensive on eBay. I swore I saw someone selling it for $80-$90 a few months back and now it’s at $120-$130
 
Taking a look at this again, I'm really sad this is in a "EasyEDA" format rather than KiCad or Eagle... I can't really modify, change, or add anything in this format...

Though, if anyone's willing to modify to spec....?
I'd want
  • Power adapter replaced with a 2.1mm DC barrel jack with the 12v line removed completely, only the 5v line.
  • Power switch added to the 5v line
  • Kick harness (and therefore the dip for it) removed
  • All video out components and traces removed
  • All audio out and traces removed.
  • "minigun" replaced with "_____gun" (pronounced blank-gun)
  • The form factor properly scaled with removed components to a reasonable size and to reduce cost of what is sure to be an extremely limited run.
The _____gun supergun would be a frontend for Sega Model2 boards. I have a video cable that connects directly from a Model2 filterboard to a GBS running gbscontrol firmware, and the filterboard also has a cable with dual RCA connectors for audio out.

Theoretically, no PCB would even need to be required to run the Model2, but it certainly would be nice to have something to distribute the 5v rail and hold the DB15 connectors in place.

I will take a look again at EasyEDA to see if I can make these modifications myself.
 
You do know the jamma edge is an extremely poor way to distribute +5V for a Model board?

That just leaves the digital inputs, and again, why would you go from JST NH on the filter board to jamma to DB15?

I'm sure someone can design a product for this purpose. However, the Minigun (and anything derived from it) isn't it.
 
You do know the jamma edge is an extremely poor way to distribute +5V for a Model board?

That just leaves the digital inputs, and again, why would you go from JST NH on the filter board to jamma to DB15?

I'm sure someone can design a product for this purpose. However, the Minigun (and anything derived from it) isn't it.
That's extremely unfortunate I guess. Looking at the original schematics of what an original US Model2 was powered with was some fairly thin gauge wire all crimped together on a post. The only reason I'd go from JST to JAMMA to DB15 is convince. I have the JAMMA harness already, and while I do have more JST NH connectors suitable, rigging them directly onto a DB15 breakout is less than ideal. I don't understand where I would get the GND and +5V to the DB15 that wouldn't just be a painful entanglement of cables.

Then there's the issue of what would be the best power distribution for a Model board? Should a +5V short directly across each JST connector to daisy chain power? Or should a terminal block such as this should be used?

s-l500 (14).jpg

I assume, ideally, an entirely new filter-board with all connectors mentioned in my previous post connecting directly to the Model board through the backplane connectors.

However, this is a discussion for an entirely different thread, and I won't cutter up the minigun thread any further with this discussion as it belongs elsewhere. I suppose my bottom line is there really isn't a great Model2 consoleizer solution unless you rig it yourself directly through JSTs.
 
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Or some reason the 2.5 versions of these boards for super expensive on eBay. I swore I saw someone selling it for $80-$90 a few months back and now it’s at $120-$130
I sell them on ebay for 180 AUD with a bunch of extras, if you have built one of these you would know that it takes a while, requires a lot of parts and helps to have some expensive tools like a decent iron and a hot air gun, along with good flux etc. It's a very reasonable price for all the work that goes into it and the quality of the end-product. There are other people selling them for more, probably a bunch more - and those prices are still reasonable for the work that goes in / time spent.

I also donate a % of every sale direct to Frank. Open source creators should be rewarded.
 
I'm yet to build one, but I think this project is a good one to start with after you learn the bare basics.

You don't need the fanciest or most expensive equipment... just an average to above average soldering iron and decent solder I believe?

I know many users have built them on here with great success and posted up pictures in this thread.
 
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Hot air for all the smd components.
Makes for a much easier cleaner job. You can just get a cheapo from eBay and they work very well.

I didn't own a hot air gun for many years and now I do, I use it for all smd work, period.
 
Hot air for all the smd components.
Makes for a much easier cleaner job. You can just get a cheapo from eBay and they work very well.

I didn't own a hot air gun for many years and now I do, I use it for all smd work, period.
I use it to remove smd components. But for installing smd I usually find a conventional iron to be better.
 
Hot air for all the smd components.
Makes for a much easier cleaner job. You can just get a cheapo from eBay and they work very well.

I didn't own a hot air gun for many years and now I do, I use it for all smd work, period.
I use it to remove smd components. But for installing smd I usually find a conventional iron to be better.
Same here
 
Likewise. But hot air is good to run over the board to straighten components and level solder out in some cases.
 
I also like installing the SMD components with hot air, makes it easier to place them down imo. The only thing I have trouble with is the LED on this. I cannot for the life of me actually get one to work lol. 3 miniguns built and yet a lightless LED continues to taunt me. Is there some secret I'm missing to installing those?
 
I also like installing the SMD components with hot air, makes it easier to place them down imo. The only thing I have trouble with is the LED on this. I cannot for the life of me actually get one to work lol. 3 miniguns built and yet a lightless LED continues to taunt me. Is there some secret I'm missing to installing those?
Only if you're not installing it in the correct orientation
 
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