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Welp, removed the neck card, put it back on and gave all of the connectors I could spot an unplug and replug and even started trying to calibrate and here is where I am: https://imgur.com/a/lHlz1f3

I'm describing this correctly by saying that I don't have any blue in my RGB?
 
I'm a tad confused because there's very clearly /some/ blue there. You can see it in the text that says "BLUE".
 
I'm not really sure where to go from here. KC did say it was recapped before he sent it. He also sent me some screenshots of it that looked good to me, before he rotated it from vert to horiz. I also notice that it's not grounded anywhere to the cabinet. Could that cause something funny like this?
 
Blue cutoff (also known as bias, offset, pedestal, or black level) is located on the main board, near the corner. Handily these pots are usually color coded. Try turning blue bias clockwise, and see if it brings up any blue. Clearly the blue gun is firing and works, since we can see the little bit of ringing content in the signal.
 
Blue cutoff (also known as bias, offset, pedestal, or black level) is located on the main board, near the corner. Handily these pots are usually color coded. Try turning blue bias clockwise, and see if it brings up any blue. Clearly the blue gun is firing and works, since we can see the little bit of ringing content in the signal.
@Hatsune Mike

I adjusted the blue bias as you suggested but this is what the test pattern looks like when I adjust it higher: https://imgur.com/a/5qDRlN7

Disregard the sync artifact of course but if I were describing it, I'd say that it makes the black look more blue while unfortunately not doing anything for the blue signal bars. I'm baffled.
 
I'll hazard a guess that the amplifier for blue is no good. If it was recapped, maybe check if there is something as simple as a lifted trace or a short.

EDIT: Sorry, this doesn't change much, but I only just now realized this is an MS8-29, not an MS8-26 as I thought before.
 
I'll hazard a guess that the amplifier for blue is no good. If it was recapped, maybe check if there is something as simple as a lifted trace or a short.

EDIT: Sorry, this doesn't change much, but I only just now realized this is an MS8-29, not an MS8-26 as I thought before.
@Hatsune Mike

Is that on the main chassis pcb, or on the neckboard? Any hints as to where I'd look for that. My first exposure to monitor work so I'm learning.

Thanks!
 
That'll be in the RGB section right near the bias controls. However, since this is an MS8-29, that introduces the possibility of this simply being a problem with the connection to your remote board, and/or the blue gain potentiometer on it.
 
Blue bias does seem to make a difference in that it changes the blacks from black to a brighter blue-black.

Blue gain seems to make absolutely no difference in any position if that tells you anything.
 
Right, bias seems to work, as it was able to offset the black level. If the blue gain pot does nothing, then it makes me suspect the amplifier. Since it's easier to think about, I'd consider first the likelihood of the blue gain pot itself having problems, or the connection to the remote board. Otherwise, I think the amplification takes place on the little riser card near the bias pots.
 
I'll check there, and I'll also check that remote control board. What is absolutely strange is that now that I go back and look at two photos I received of the cab before it was shipped it looks like it was working in vertical and the problem has occurred after they flipped it horizontal.

Check out the two images of the Blaster title screen here: https://imgur.com/a/CUGtKq5

To my thinking, that might point me towards the remote control board since it wouldn't be hard to imagine someone damaging that in rotating?
 
Oh yeah, in that case surely something is loose, a trace is nicked, a wire got pinched, etc. I doubt anything is critically damaged.
 
No. Make sure your frame is resting on concrete or floor and connect the discharge clamp to the frame.
 
I pulled both connectors from the remote board to the chassis and reconnected them. No change.

Took this picture underneath the board. I can't tell if that blue section looks funny or not? https://imgur.com/a/EbUfq0k
 
Hey guys, I think I found my culprit: https://imgur.com/a/l4vwfbR

That's from the remote board. Based on my prior picture, where that loose cable is matches blue gain.

Can someone advise me on the best way to fix this connection? It looks like the wire "punches down" into that green connector?
 
Check it out my dudes!
pLA4O6w.jpg


It still needs some fine tuning but I now have blue! And my white is no longer an awful yellow. It was the disconnected blue-gain wire going to the remote control board. I secured it into that little 11 wire ribbon as best I could and here we are. Ideally, I'd probably replace that ribbon if there was a part I could order somewhere easily, but if it's a weird one off, then I guess this will do.

Thanks to everyone who helped me troubleshoot on this chassis. Y'all the best!
 
I think I just made a very stupid, potentially expensive mistake.

I was testing that I had re-installed the remote control board correctly when I powered the monitor on without the anode cap connected to anything. I shut it down immediately when I realized what I had done, discharged the monitor (nothing to discharge?) and then replaced the anode cap.

Now I have a very, very washed out looking, out of focus screen.

Please dear friends, what do I do next?
 
You are not giving me a lot of hope. Did I just totally F up my tube and or chassis?
 
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