No image on New Net City/Toshiba Chassis

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    • No image on New Net City/Toshiba Chassis

      Received a New Net City cab via freight shipping yesterday from a reputable seller. Monitor was tested fine at 31 kHz before shipping, seller did say it had a dim picture at 15 kHz and would likely need some adjusting. I plugged in the cab and fed it a 15 kHz RGBS signal from my MAME PC (the same signal worked fine on my BVM). It was very dim and almost "zoomed in" and stretched. I opened the control panel, degaussed and began to adjust the contrast when the monitor rapidly began turning itself on and off with no image (just a white "flash" and a clicking sound", and I smelled what I believed to be burning/plastic melting. I unplugged the cab. Now when I power on the cab and try to feed a signal, either 15 or 31, the monitor does not power on (not even a "No Signal"). There are three rapid clicks when I turn it on if it's fed a 15 signal, one click with a 31. Can't get it to display with the MAME PC, Dreamcast via VGA or Xbox 360 via VGA (the MAME PC is confirmed to work with a New Astro City via JPAC).

      Pictures of the chassis here: imgur.com/a/Bg4dz8P

      I have very little experience with CRT repair, testing voltages, etc. so if there are any procedures I should try please explain them as though I am a complete beginner. Do these symptoms point to anything specific that probably failed (Flyback, HOT, etc.) or is the cause easily diagnosable?

      Thanks in advance!
    • Hello.. sorry to hear the bad news.. I am also a newbie when it comes to troubleshooting CRTs.. I had a similar situation as you, quite honestly the best thing that you can do right now is to figure out how to remove the chassis (or find out someone to do it for you) and send it for repairs and a full recap..there can be a number of things going from caps to fly back etc. There are two companies that can work on repairs (PNL, I forget the other) but a few of us have written about them and how to reach them.
      The Future Is Now
    • SNK-NEO-GEO wrote:

      Hello.. sorry to hear the bad news.. I am also a newbie when it comes to troubleshooting CRTs.. I had a similar situation as you, quite honestly the best thing that you can do right now is to figure out how to remove the chassis (or find out someone to do it for you) and send it for repairs and a full recap..there can be a number of things going from caps to fly back etc. There are two companies that can work on repairs (PNL, I forget the other) but a few of us have written about them and how to reach them.
      This. Give Sharper Image and PnL Video a call. Get a quote. Pick one and send it off for repair.

      As for what happened. Check the VGA cable on both ends and see if pin 9 is still in place. Take pictures of both ends.
    • I always start with a full replacement of the capacitors. It's an easy job that anyone with even the slightest hand skills can manage. You'll want to find out the chassis (Arcade Otaku Wiki) and then google search for the cap kit. Syracuse Semiconductor is a good vendor. Try that before sending out for repair -- it takes forever and is expensive. I've had a cap kit solve many different monitor ailments over the years. I'm not a technical guy and can't really solve anything else, but cap kits are easy, trust me.
    • I tested the voltage into the chassis board and confirmed good 120V reading. The fuse next to the AC input also has good continuity. Definitely leaning toward having to send the chassis in for repair. Will contact the two recommended companies. Just waiting for verification from the seller that there's nothing else to try. Real disappointed, but hopeful that getting the chassis serviced should clear it up.
    • TerakRall wrote:

      I tested the voltage into the chassis board and confirmed good 120V reading. The fuse next to the AC input also has good continuity. Definitely leaning toward having to send the chassis in for repair. Will contact the two recommended companies. Just waiting for verification from the seller that there's nothing else to try. Real disappointed, but hopeful that getting the chassis serviced should clear it up.
      Lot of people have been having issues with Sharp lately it seems. May want to lean towards PNL.
      On the hunt for: Dinoking, Mushiking, Love & Berry, Egret 29, Grand Am Q25, Capcom New Concept 2, and Naomi guncabs.
    • streetfighterken wrote:

      So who is the "reputable seller"? If they are reputable there shouldn't be any problem saying who it is, so they can resolve the issue on account of them being reputable and all.
      If they're reputable it should have been resolved without having to come to the forum to ask for advice at all!
      On the hunt for: Dinoking, Mushiking, Love & Berry, Egret 29, Grand Am Q25, Capcom New Concept 2, and Naomi guncabs.
    • thomas3184 wrote:

      DecepticonZero wrote:

      So, is this yet another "tested" cab from KC. He's had a streak of these on Facebook in the last few days. Maybe it's time to start checking shit more thoroughly prior to shipping.
      Pretty sure this is same guy from facebook who said it didn’t come from KC.
      yes it didnt come from KC and I dont recall who he said it came from , if he did mention at all.

      I couldn't help him on FB so I told him to come here for some other suggestions from the rest of you guys!
    • IF YOU NEVER WORKED ON A CRT PLEASE BE CAREFUL AND READ/WATCH VIDEOS HOW TO DISCHARGE SAFELY (you said you have very little experience, just want to be careful) =)

      Not saying this is what it is but I had a similar issue with a CRT that had a bad connection between a cap and vertical IC which caused it to blow. It's a $2 transistor..What you're describing sounds very similar. Good news it's an easy fix (if that's what it is), if you're into soldering, etc. It's going to take some troubleshooting.

      Did the screen show vertical collapse before it shutdown? (skinny line in the middle).

      The post was edited 1 time, last by digitron ().

    • The cab came from gamesaru. Not meaning to be overly secretive, just don't want to throw the guy under the bus as he seems to be pretty universally well regarded and I had a pretty good experience with him overall (the Astro he sent me in the same shipment is terrific). After some initial messages and troubleshooting the first day or two, I haven't received a reply from him for several days now which is unusual so I'm hoping all is ok.

      I do believe I saw what was described as vertical collapse - as the monitor power cycled, there was definitely a skinny line each time. After the initial failure I don't even get that, just the clicks when I turn the power on.

      I found my exact chassis being sold by Yaton on eBay so I took the plunge - I would have wanted to have a spare anyway. I'll replace the chassis when it comes and hopefully that solves the issue. If not I'll have more troubleshooting to do.