What's new
31k was 100% ok when I got it, didn't even think to check 15k when it came in. I don't think my vendor does too, most of the time I don't hear ppl wanting an NNC for 15k. I always just thought if 31 works, 15 should too. That said, what actually is different in the circuitry between the two?
 
31k was 100% ok when I got it, didn't even think to check 15k when it came in. I don't think my vendor does too, most of the time I don't hear ppl wanting an NNC for 15k. I always just thought if 31 works, 15 should too. That said, what actually is different in the circuitry between the two?
I remember you were surprised when I asked you to test the 15, but you did test it for me and the only thing that looked off about it was the dim picture, which you chalked up to needing adjustments and sounded reasonable to me. Otherwise the 15/31 test images looked similar. None of the distortion or stretching I got when I hooked it up. You also mentioned it took a while to sync. Maybe those two things were indicators that something on the chassis was about to go but I understand that it wasn't necessarily obvious at the time and I have full faith you didn't knowingly send me something that wasn't working - that doesn't track at all with how well you treated me throughout the whole purchase process. You have a lot of respect from this community for a reason and these things happen with old equipment.
 
Have you tried running 15k to the monitor straight from a source? I saw that giant chain of hardware listed earlier and it'll be more trouble than good trying to test with it.

You should definitely start with as few variables as possible.

Just source and monitor, then add in other things until it stops working.
 
Have you tried running 15k to the monitor straight from a source? I saw that giant chain of hardware listed earlier and it'll be more trouble than good trying to test with it.

You should definitely start with as few variables as possible.

Just source and monitor, then add in other things until it stops working.
Yes, ever since the initial failure I've been running the source directly into the cab - even tried going right into the chassis and not through the I/O board. Monitor doesn't power up.
 
Just wanted to make sure. Sometimes we can overlook simplifying the setup and lose a lot of time and energy to troubleshooting too many things at once :).
 
I always just thought if 31 works, 15 should too. That said, what actually is different in the circuitry between the two?
Quite a bit. I've had issues with 15 vs 31 before. The "click" you hear when it switches res is a relay to the different circuits. If nothing was different then all monitors should theoretically be tri-sync :)
 
I've decided for simplicity's sake I'm going to use separate computers for the two cabs (this will also let me keep separate horizontal/vertical rom sets on each). Ordered an R9 280x card for the second PC that supports CRT Emudriver and has analog DVI-I output. Gives me something to work on while I wait!
 
I've decided for simplicity's sake I'm going to use separate computers for the two cabs (this will also let me keep separate horizontal/vertical rom sets on each). Ordered an R9 280x card for the second PC that supports CRT Emudriver and has analog DVI-I output. Gives me something to work on while I wait!
When you do get your replacement chassis, and you go to test it out, I wouldn't use a MAME PC as your video source. That might lead to more frustrations. See if you can secure cheap arcade PCB's so you can run 15khz and 31khz through the VGA connection. Tekken 2 and 3 are cheap PCB's that run as JVS at 15khz through VGA. A Sega NAOMI with a cheap cart like Virtua Tennis can run at 31khz and maybe even 15khz. I have a ton of experience with MAME-to-arcade@15khz. But I've yet to connect successfully connect a MAME PC at 15khz or 31khz to a tri-sync monitor through VGA(Blast City/MS2930 and NNC/Sanwa PFX chassis). It was even a chore to connect a 31khz hi res arcade monitor to a PC running at 640x480. I do believe the key is to get a 15khz RGBS signal into those monitors VGA connections with the sync outputted on pin 13 only though.

Point is, don't use a MAME PC as your video source when doing any testing. MAME to an arcade machine is a hack as it is. Use a source that is known to work and to work outright with an arcade cab.
 
Assuming you would steer away from the cheaper ones Yaton has listed that come with Virtua NBA (which seems to be able to do 15/31)? Was not looking to spend hundreds on a NAOMI setup though I get your point about using PCBs for testing.
 
Tekken 3 comes up for 50-70 fairly often.
 
I have a ton of experience with MAME-to-arcade@15khz. But I've yet to connect successfully connect a MAME PC at 15khz or 31khz to a tri-sync monitor through VGA(Blast City/MS2930 and NNC/Sanwa PFX chassis). It was even a chore to connect a 31khz hi res arcade monitor to a PC running at 640x480. I do believe the key is to get a 15khz RGBS signal into those monitors VGA connections with the sync outputted on pin 13 only though.
Was this even the case with trying the composite sync feature in the newer CRT Emudriver?
 
Assuming you would steer away from the cheaper ones Yaton has listed that come with Virtua NBA (which seems to be able to do 15/31)? Was not looking to spend hundreds on a NAOMI setup though I get your point about using PCBs for testing.
Buying with Yaton is a roll of the dice. You have a 70/30 chance of getting shipped to you what was listed (that Chinese shipping department of his is a piece of work). Then a 50/50 chance of it working.

You only need this stuff long enough to test your chassis from Yaton. Maybe update your New York location in your profile and someone on the forum that lives nearby can lend a helping hand. If not, ask on Facebook if someone near your can loan you a NAOMI or Tekken 2 board.

Sega NAOMI is a worthy investment though. A must have for any NNC owner.
 
Sega NAOMI is a worthy investment though. A must have for any NNC owner.
I figured if I were going to go the NAOMI route eventually I'd want to do the whole NetDimm setup, which I'm not quite ready to plunge into. The plan was to use my Dreamcast as the ports of NAOMI games were by and large pretty faithful. Just like the MAME PC, something I read about people doing successfully and didn't think would pose a problem.

One way or another I'll get my hands on one of these options to test when the new chassis arrives.
 
I've decided for simplicity's sake I'm going to use separate computers for the two cabs (this will also let me keep separate horizontal/vertical rom sets on each). Ordered an R9 280x card for the second PC that supports CRT Emudriver and has analog DVI-I output. Gives me something to work on while I wait!
When you do get your replacement chassis, and you go to test it out, I wouldn't use a MAME PC as your video source. That might lead to more frustrations. See if you can secure cheap arcade PCB's so you can run 15khz and 31khz through the VGA connection. Tekken 2 and 3 are cheap PCB's that run as JVS at 15khz through VGA. A Sega NAOMI with a cheap cart like Virtua Tennis can run at 31khz and maybe even 15khz. I have a ton of experience with MAME-to-arcade@15khz. But I've yet to connect successfully connect a MAME PC at 15khz or 31khz to a tri-sync monitor through VGA(Blast City/MS2930 and NNC/Sanwa PFX chassis). It was even a chore to connect a 31khz hi res arcade monitor to a PC running at 640x480. I do believe the key is to get a 15khz RGBS signal into those monitors VGA connections with the sync outputted on pin 13 only though.
Point is, don't use a MAME PC as your video source when doing any testing. MAME to an arcade machine is a hack as it is. Use a source that is known to work and to work outright with an arcade cab.
Totally agree with not using a MAME PC to test, these cabs were not designed to interface with modern equipment. You could definitely toast a monitor chassis with a misconfigured setup.

Get a cheap Neo Geo 1 slot board to test, doesn't even need a game.

That said, haven't had any issues here with direct VGA via CRTEmudriver to my NNC (PFX) so far.
 
Get a cheap Neo Geo 1 slot board to test, doesn't even need a game.
No VGA video connection on Neo Geo boards. Hence the suggestion for a board like Tekken that has 15khz output on a VGA connector that can hook up directly to his NNC.
That said, haven't had any issues here with direct VGA via CRTEmudriver to my NNC (PFX) so far.
Out of curiosity, did you enable composite sync in Atom-15 or VMMaker? I can't get it to work at 15khz RGBHV (default) or after I enable composite sync and rerun all the modes. I suspect, I have to pull pin 14 on the VGA cable once composite sync is enabled.

Seems to be subtle variations on this chassis. Like mine can't sync properly to a Taito F3 board on the high impedance connector. While I've seen it work perfectly fine on 300wins' Sanwa PFX.
 
Get a cheap Neo Geo 1 slot board to test, doesn't even need a game.
No VGA video connection on Neo Geo boards. Hence the suggestion for a board like Tekken that has 15khz output on a VGA connector that can hook up directly to his NNC.
That said, haven't had any issues here with direct VGA via CRTEmudriver to my NNC (PFX) so far.
Out of curiosity, did you enable composite sync in Atom-15 or VMMaker? I can't get it to work at 15khz RGBHV (default) or after I enable composite sync and rerun all the modes. I suspect, I have to pull pin 14 on the VGA cable once composite sync is enabled.
Seems to be subtle variations on this chassis. Like mine can't sync properly to a Taito F3 board on the high impedance connector. While I've seen it work perfectly fine on 300wins' Sanwa PFX.
good point re the NG not having a VGA connection directly, but if you are going to play 15khz games on a NNC you will likely want a Jammafier, francob style loom, or a tested and safe 15khz emudriver setup.

I did enable composite sync via atom15/vmmaker, I was testing on an older 15khz only pvm via bnc rgbs to vga before moving the setup over to the cab.
 
good point re the NG not having a VGA connection directly, but if you are going to play 15khz games on a NNC you will likely want a Jammafier, francob style loom, or a tested and safe 15khz emudriver setup.
I did enable composite sync via atom15/vmmaker, I was testing on an older 15khz only pvm via bnc rgbs to vga before moving the setup over to the cab.
That's the thing - my 15khz Emudriver setup was working perfectly on my Sony BVM for over a year with no hiccups. Really would love to know with certainty whether it was just a bad chassis (and therefore replacing it solves the problem) or if I did something that sent a bad signal. The JPAC has a sync filter that doesn't allow bad signals to be passed through to the cab...almost wondering if since I have a working stable JPAC setup in the Astro I should look for a JAMMA->JVS converter and do my testing with that since the JPAC's sync filter would ostensibly protect the NNC.
 
If you set up atom 15 already then nothing should be coming out that the jpac would need to filter. Are there any bootup screens that the jpac is filtering out?

From all the info you gave it seems like the chassis was on it’s last legs and just gave out finally.
 
Back
Top