No, the bootup screens show stable on the Astro. I think you're right and the chassis was just done for.
- Thread starter TerakRall
- Start date
So I just picked up a Tekken 3 board on eBay for $75 shipped which is not horrible. I'll likely get the board before I get my replacement chassis. Does the JAMMA connector on the one side mean I should be able to slot the PCB into my Astro to verify the board is working properly when I get it, and then I can just switch over to the JVS connectors on the other side when my new chassis comes?
thomas3184
Grand Master
Slap that baby in and maybe magically your nnc will start working lol.
thomas3184
Grand Master
You can follow the wiring guide as well, at the end of the manual:
https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Sega_New_Net_City
https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Sega_New_Net_City
The other thing that's been weighing on me is discharging the tube (I know most of you are unfazed by that but I've never done it before). I've watched plenty of videos and know what to do but I'm still fairly freaked out. Would it be safe to say that after being powered off coming over from Japan, powered up briefly when it was tested in Nevada and then powered off for 10 days coming to NY, and then powered on briefly here before it went out that there's probably not much of a charge left built up? Or is that thing still fully charged up? I'm gonna do the discharge regardless, just curious.
thomas3184
Grand Master
No one can say, always assume it is fully charged, always.
Unless you're an old-timer. Then just yank the anode cap off bare-handed and tap the wire against the frame after.
Those guys are nuts.
thomas3184
Grand Master
That is nuts, but they still assume it is fully charged.
I'm newer to discharging myself, done it on about 4 separate CRT's now and I can tell you that even when you discharge the anode cap, most of the time there is still a charge in the tube itself, you want to stick your discharge tool in the hole also. (that's what she said) 
One thing a lot of people miss is that the e-CAP's on the board/chassis still have a charge too so if you're going to replace them or gonna have your hands under the board, and don't like getting shocked like I don't, discharge them with a screwdriver before removing them.
You'll see videos on YouTube of expert TV repair guys that have a very long history and experience of the high/low voltages on the chassis and they know where they can and can't touch on the board while it's live. I'm definitely not one of them and take all the caution I can.
Ring off, rubber gloves, rubber soled shoes, hand in pocket (that's not discharging). Been safe so far (knocking on wood).
One thing a lot of people miss is that the e-CAP's on the board/chassis still have a charge too so if you're going to replace them or gonna have your hands under the board, and don't like getting shocked like I don't, discharge them with a screwdriver before removing them.
You'll see videos on YouTube of expert TV repair guys that have a very long history and experience of the high/low voltages on the chassis and they know where they can and can't touch on the board while it's live. I'm definitely not one of them and take all the caution I can.
Ring off, rubber gloves, rubber soled shoes, hand in pocket (that's not discharging). Been safe so far (knocking on wood).
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thomas3184
Grand Master
And my beer!
thomas3184
Grand Master
Woah, that’s getting a little too dangerous.
streetfighterken
Grand Master
What's there to be freaked out about? As long as you're not touching bare metal, you're safe. I've removed anode cups maybe... 100 times in my life? 95% of the time the tube is discharged within 30 minutes of it being shut off. Honestly I'm very lax about the discharge process now. I still do it of course, but very rarely do I ever hear a pop. Although one time I heard the pop and still got shocked by touching the anode hole for some reason. After that, I started wearing rubber gloves and touch the anode cup to the frame a few more times after I've removed it from the tube -- as well as sticking the screwdriver in the hole a few more times.
I've discharged my NNC and Blast city numerous times and not once has there been any charge in the anode cup or tube. As a safety precaution, I still wear rubber gloves as I am poking my discharge tool in the anode cup. I was like you before, super sketched out with discharging the monitor...but once you do it a couple times, it's no big deal.
2 months ago, I picked up 19" donor tubes from a recycler. They had been sitting for years. And the recycler opened them and discharged them as he was sorting out which ones were 10-pin/9-pin. He collected them for extra cash and knew arcade hobbyist would buy them. When I was examining them with him, one of them shocked me pretty good.
Never underestimate the charge in a tube, no matter how long it has been sitting. But with that said, it is pretty easy to discharge them too.
Never underestimate the charge in a tube, no matter how long it has been sitting. But with that said, it is pretty easy to discharge them too.
BanishingFlatsAC
Champion
I've been bit buy a tube after the anode had been removed for hours. The monitor builds up a little charge even after you've popped the cap. Keep that in mind.
