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You are not the only one.
I found out the hard way as well that it's best to discharge the tube anode every time you come nearby.
(Even when it's to reconnect the anode wire.)
 
Stupid question, but does it matter if the screwdriver used to discharge has a magnetized tip? Would it be better to use one without since magnets are bad for CRTs?
 
Stupid question, but does it matter if the screwdriver used to discharge has a magnetized tip? Would it be better to use one without since magnets are bad for CRTs?
That small of a magnet that far from the tube won't have any effect.
 
Ok. I've reached out to Sharp describing my issue and waiting to hear back. I'm thinking I may as well get the chassis fully serviced and treat the Yaton one as a spare/backup (depending on which one gets here first). Either way I'll likely be discharging the tube and removing the chassis in the next couple of days, so if I die in the process, it was nice meeting all you kind people!
 
Alright, so my Yaton chassis arrived today and I'm getting ready to put together my discharge tool. Are alligator clips crimped on to the ends of the wire and wrapped in electrical tape sufficient? Large flat head screwdriver with a rubber handle, the clip secured by electrical tape on the screwdriver as well, and 10-12 AWG wire? Anything I'm missing?
 
Alright, so my Yaton chassis arrived today and I'm getting ready to put together my discharge tool. Are alligator clips crimped on to the ends of the wire and wrapped in electrical tape sufficient? Large flat head screwdriver with a rubber handle, the clip secured by electrical tape on the screwdriver as well, and 10-12 AWG wire? Anything I'm missing?
That's exactly what I use. I run the electrical tape all the way down to the tip from the handle, the more the better in my opinion. Wouldn't hurt to do a continuity test from the tip of the screwdriver to the alligator clip you'll connect to ground.
 
Yep, those should work. Are you near a Harbor Freight? You can get a bunch of test leads for a few bucks already made.
This is what I use, only 18ga but it's worked fine throughout several discharges, might get a lil warm, lol.

https://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch-low-voltage-multi-colored-test-leads-66717.html
I am, just figured the "low voltage" wouldn't work correctly. Also not finding electrical insulating gloves at any local place, just standard vinyl/latex gloves. Maybe I'm being too cautious but better safe than sorry.
 
Yep, those should work. Are you near a Harbor Freight? You can get a bunch of test leads for a few bucks already made.
This is what I use, only 18ga but it's worked fine throughout several discharges, might get a lil warm, lol.

https://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch-low-voltage-multi-colored-test-leads-66717.html
I am, just figured the "low voltage" wouldn't work correctly. Also not finding electrical insulating gloves at any local place, just standard vinyl/latex gloves. Maybe I'm being too cautious but better safe than sorry.
Yep, I couldn't find them locally either. They sell them on Amazon.
 
So now the question is do I order the gloves and wait a few days, or go ahead without them. Nobody in any of the videos I've watched seems to be wearing gloves...
 
I've never worn gloves, as I think they're overkill. That being said, it's only your call to make there.
 
Would these 14 AWG pre-made leads work or do I need heavier wire than 14?

https://www.amazon.com/Alligator-Clips-Heavy-Silicone-Jumper/dp/B07L29V4Z2/

Thanks to you all for your patience with a beginner.
Absolutely, it will be fine. I've been discharging with 18ga, not recommended but it works fine.

My recommendation of electrical gloves is more for if you're going to be working on the yoke, grabbing it, and have your hands working around the high voltage stuff while it's turned off. You don't NEED rubber gloves for discharging, it's precautionary. Something is better than nothing.
 
14AWG is more than enough. Also, alligator clips should not be used if you are in cramped quarters. As you are waving the discharge tool in cramped quarters, the clip can easily dislodge. Strip back the back 2” of insulation, twisted it tight, stick it in a screw hole on the frame, and as long as the wire’s copper constantly is touching the frame, you are ready to go.

I never use gloves either. But never be tempted to use more than one hands on the discharge tool.
 
Thanks. The gloves/leads/electrical tape will all come from Amazon tomorrow.

In the meantime, in addition to the Yaton chassis that arrived today, I now have a confirmed working Tekken 3 PCB:

prDWlnC.jpg
 
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