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meybarra

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I finally got around to installing a ds kit on a rev 7 g pal board when I ran into a missing socket problem like this:

https://www.arcade-projects.com/for...-multi-on-a-rev-3-board-missing-sockets.2596/

Against the good advice of wiser men, I’m trying my hand at modifying my board by installing CN5 and CN6 sockets. The reason is because I want to learn some soldering skills.

Next steps, purchase tools/supplies, study, and practice on junk boards.

Tools/Supplies:
1. New Sockets - Done. Purchased from Digikey.

2. Desoldering tools - Done. I splurged on a Hakko 301 kit with a 1mm nozzle.

3. Soldering Iron - Pending. Researching. Should I purchase a very fine tip or simply wrap a fine copper wire around the tip as a substitute? I picked up a Hakko FX-888D with a collection of tips.

4. Solder - pending. Avoiding the lead free stuff. Kester 66/37 rosin core 0.5mm gauge leaded solder wire

5. Tip Tinner - pending

6. Sponge - pending. looking at regular and brass/copper Sponge and brass tip cleaning sponge came with the Hakko iron kit

7. Filtered fan - done

8. Magnifying lens - Not sure if I want to bother at this point.

9. Flux - Incoming. I ordered GC Electronics 10-4202 liquid solder flux/rosin. I should have purchased this directly from the electronics store than deal with the flame retardant shipping.
 
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I had to do something similar on a different board. Honestly, it's not too bad with the Hakko desoldering gun. It's just laborious.

3. Soldering Iron - Pending. Researching. Should I purchase a very fine tip or simply wrap a fine copper wire around the tip as a substitute?
A regular chisel tip soldering iron is fine. The tip doesn't have to be super small.

Get some good quality 63/37 Sn-Pb solder. Smaller 0.6-0.8mm diameter helps.
 
Add a good liquid flux, it’s helpful if you burn it all away on the initial application but don’t want to add more solder. Solder Flux, Rosin, Soldering,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DXIKMI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Also helpful for desoldering in my experience. When you desolder, if the joint is old, you can either add new solder or some flux to get it rejuvenated for easy removal.

#3 just buy a few common tips. The copper wire idea sounds horrible!

#4 Kester is a good brand. 60/40 works for me.

#8 I wouldn’t need a magnifying glass for this project at all.
 
To add to @ekorz

3. Copper wire is a terrible idea, it will sap all the heat and solder won't flow. Good brands will have plenty of tips available to suit whatever job you're doing

4. Multicore is another good brand. I personally use Multicore 60/40 0.6mm

5. I don't use it but I know its popular. An alternative is just to tin your tip with fresh solder before putting it away

6. They serve 2 different purposes, so the answer is both. The sponge cleans the tip of flux and other contaminants but also removes your tinning. The brass coils keep the tip tinned, but occasionally you need more. You'll certainly use the brass coils more, but get a holder with both.

8. For CPS2 work, definitely no need to have a magnifying glass. You only need that for fine pitch SMD work
 
Quick update...Most of my supplies are in (see original post). I followed many of your recommendations. Desoldering was a breeze with the Hakko gun, but tedious. A few holes didn’t clear out on the first attempt. Fortunately, a little added solder did the trick and the gun cleared it clean. The new sockets fell into place easily. I’ll start soldering the sockets in place once the flux comes in. Thank you to those who offered advice. I’m glad I have the opportunity to practice this aspect of the hobby.
 
Good news! I managed to solder both sockets in place. Seemed relatively painless, but tedious. Good practice I suppose. I’m not going to bother with the encrypted set for now, so no key writing wires yet. However, I adjusted the first set of jumpers to SOOS. I thought this was odd because I heard these MvC boards would already be good to go with the jumpers.

Afterwards, I seated the kit and fired it up. The kit read the SD card and flashed a game. The result...solid red screen.

Next step, try a different card, double check the rom set, and re-flash. If that doesn’t work I’ll unseat everything, recheck the jumpers, and try again. I’m not ruling out a bad solder job on my part, but fingers crossed that’s not the culprit.
 
Problem solved! I updated the first set of jumpers back to OSSO, the way the MvC board was set up before I started modding it. The multi kit is working great now. I must have misread the installation instructions.
 
was your board a hispanic board? I'm running into the same issue with a Hispanic Marvel VS Capcom. The board is Rev 7 with the G PAL which I thought was supposed to be easy install, but not mine apparently. I'm waiting on the headers to arrive, and I'm not too concerned about the install. I've got all the tools and have done a few RGB mods, PS-IO switchboard, etc, but I am wondering if that jumper issue is because you have a Hispanic board like mine. My jumpers are set at OSSO too but the install guide says to switch it to SOOS so I'm curious if I should change mine or not.
 
@jord4n313 the Hispanic aspect of the board is just the rom content. No need to change the jumpers.
 
I initially changed the jumpers because I read some outdated info on the multi. That’s why I changed them back to stock. I suspect my red screen issue was more likely due to a poorly seated interconnect board.
 
any idea why some of these revision 7 boards are missing CN5 and CN6? I had read about revision 3 boards missing CN6 and some rom sockets but always thought revision 7 was supposed to be plug and play
 
My rev 7 MvC B-board had a green shell with the “Capcom Certificado Qualidade” emblem. I was also a bit disappointed that it wasn’t plug and play due to the missing connectors. I read similar comments online about the ease of converting these rev 7 pal g boards. No clue why our boards had the issue. Luck of the draw? Cost cutting at the factory for the Hispanic market?

Regarding the modification, most people I asked recommended that I just buy a new donor board. But I went ahead with the mod regardless. It was actually quite fun and easy, with patience and the right tools. I think another forum member found an easier method without the need to desolder.

Finally, despite earlier install guides, leave the jumpers stock. Plus triple check your connections with an ocular pat down when you’re done. Especially the interconnect board on the Darksoft kit.
 
Yes! Mine is also a Hispanic board but with a green shell instead of the typical orange - weird. Thanks for the tips, the 96 pin connectors just came in today - time to get to work!

Edit: Thanks for your help dude, just got my CPS2 multi fully setup and working great. Adding the CN5 and CN6 connectors worked like a charm and I didn't have to touch any jumpers at all!
 
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