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Anselmo

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this is a cps2 board that was in a cabinet I just picked up. Haven't tested it, but what do you guys think? Is this a problem? I'm not sure if continuity is lost in any of these ?

Thanks in advance!
 

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First thing I would do with that is clean the edge with a Qtip and some Isopropyl. The green stuff is oxidation.
 
The solder blobs are there because the traces have been damaged. As said above, clean it and then run continuity checks on all the pads. Either fix with solder blobs (you have to scratch the mask to make contact) or jumper wires.
 
I 2nd nem's advice above... Clean it up real good first, then check with a multimeter in continuity mode.
If any of the pads fail to make solid/proper contact, gently/carefully sand back the green mask layer with very fine sandpaper (300 grit).
Then I'd personally use small pieces of stripped K30 soldered in-line to act as jumps (should have a lower profile than solder blob if done correctly).
 
this is a cps2 board that was in a cabinet I just picked up. Haven't tested it, but what do you guys think? Is this a problem? I'm not sure if continuity is lost in any of these ?

Thanks in advance!
The holes above the pads should have continuity to the pads when you check with an ohmmeter. Easy test. Clean it, either way.
-ud
 
Thanks for the continuity test tip. I did not know that! Very cool
 
Not the prettiest, but it works!


@jassin000

- what is stripped K30?
 

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It's really thin wire. Kynar AWG30.
That ^
543b6b42-62e6-41d4-a65c-76cad573ceea_2.5fddcb0427eb8852c88f34651b7f2aa9.jpeg


But you did what I was suggesting you do with the wire anyway (bridge broken contacts, not solder blob).
Good job :thumbup:

I should mention I wouldn't have covered the entire keypad in solder, beware as insertion/removal of the JAMMA edge will scrape off.
If possible try to stay out of the red zone...
V7Ktx5r.jpg
 
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I kinda didnt want to. But Solder just kinda goes where it wants to on me....still learning. This was a big help!


It's really thin wire. Kynar AWG30.
I should mention I wouldn't have covered the entire keypad in solder, beware as insertion/removal of the JAMMA edge will scrape off.
If possible try to stay out of the red zone...
V7Ktx5r.jpg
 
Also it would help if you use a simple Jamma fingerboard to permanently plug into the CPS2 so you do not have to worry about the solder everytime you swap boards
 
Not sure if this is the best advice but what I'd do is first remove the excess solder in the pads, then remove all the corrosion using a fibreglass pencil (be careful to not breath the dust!), clean with 99.9% isopropyl alcohol and apply deoxit in the metallic pads and acrylic overcoat pen to fix the damaged solder mask.
 
Not sure if this is the best advice but what I'd do is first remove the excess solder in the pads, then remove all the corrosion using a fibreglass pencil (be careful to not breath the dust!), clean with 99.9% isopropyl alcohol and apply deoxit in the metallic pads and acrylic overcoat pen to fix the damaged solder mask.
is the acrylic overcoat pen adhesive and conductive?
 
If you don't want to spend that kind of cash you can just go to Walmart and buy some nail polish to cover your repairs or replace solder mask. It's what I use. I have two different shades of green.

Also, don't worry about the colors with the sparkles in it. It's not metal flake, it's plastic so not conductive. Finding a normal color shouldn't be an issue though.
 
Thanks all for the great insight. I have one more query. The board has some faulty volume buttons. Not the plastic piece, but the actual SMD buttons. Volume down and test work, but volume up doesn't. I've tried to raise the volume via the cps2 kick harness and bypass the buttons on the pcb. It still doesn't register volume up. Is that normal? I figured bypassing the actual broken Button would work.
 
If you don't want to spend that kind of cash you can just go to Walmart and buy some nail polish to cover your repairs or replace solder mask. It's what I use. I have two different shades of green.

Also, don't worry about the colors with the sparkles in it. It's not metal flake, it's plastic so not conductive. Finding a normal color shouldn't be an issue though.
An now, I finally have a reason to read A-P with my wife...
 
I have one more query. The board has some faulty volume buttons. Not the plastic piece, but the actual SMD buttons. Volume down and test work, but volume up doesn't. I've tried to raise the volume via the cps2 kick harness and bypass the buttons on the pcb. It still doesn't register volume up. Is that normal? I figured bypassing the actual broken Button would work.
Bypassing the broken button should work.

You can try to reset the audio settings by keeping one of the volume buttons held down when you turn on power.
 
I did the sound reset. I reset the volume down since volume down works....now i have no sound because volume doesnt work lol. Gonna try to replace the SMD buttons and hope that fixes it. I'm concerned since the volume also doesnt go up through the kick harness pins.
 
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