Sega Hikaru / Planet Harriers questions! (report from Hikaru subforum)

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    • Sega Hikaru / Planet Harriers questions! (report from Hikaru subforum)

      I put this two places, since the Hikaru subforum has a single thread from two years ago lol

      I ordered a Planet Harriers pcb, or at least what I think was one. Auction listed board working game unknown, and the eprom numbers matched Planet Harriers. Took a shot since auction was a wife selling her husbands collection...very confusing but I bit since it's eBay and if it doesn't work I am out nothing really.

      I am going to go ATX to JVS for power, so I can use my current 450 Watt SFX power supplies 24 pin connector. That makes perfect sense to me. For video, VGA to Framemeister adapted and TTL rectified down to 750Ohm.

      My questions : 1) What Sega I/O board model do I need for controls? Going to wire up a flight stick to control the game. I did this twice with Beast Busters : Second Nightmare, so luckily I've dealt with that already 2) I can't seem to find any photos of the end connectors of the original control connections. Want to know what plastic housing and pins I need to make the harness. Beast Busters was a combo of DB15 and a custom JST single row connector, but obviously Hikaru will differ

      That's about it. Honestly I half expect the board to come in with chips broken off since Hikaru is such a disaster piece of hardware. Heat syncs were glued down in the auction photos but who knows what I'll find to be honest. Project might be DOA before it even starts. I know at least if I get it to post and check for the I/O board it should be ok (minus any graphical glitches)

      Any help would be super appreciated!
    • awbacon1 wrote:

      Auction listed board working game unknown, and the eprom numbers matched Planet Harriers. Took a shot since auction was a wife selling her husbands collection.
      That lady slowly keeps putting up the weirdest items. I've bought a few things from her. Her packing is atrocious, but more than half of what I've bought from her over the past year or so has worked.

      I have an entire cabinet's worth of wiring harness/amps/power supplies/I/O's/etc in a box around here somewhere. If your Hikaru ends up working, I have probably everything you need aside from the flight stick (I stole it to use elsewhere).
      On the hunt for: Dinoking, Mushiking, Love & Berry, Egret 29, Grand Am Q25, Capcom New Concept 2, and Naomi guncabs.
    • MetalliC wrote:

      PS: but I think it should work with any common JVS I/O board
      As long as it supports analog controls!

      I can confirm it works with a Sega v3 JVS I/O, at least. @theoddtech has one of the flight sticks off of my old cab and has it wired up to one.
      On the hunt for: Dinoking, Mushiking, Love & Berry, Egret 29, Grand Am Q25, Capcom New Concept 2, and Naomi guncabs.
    • rewrite wrote:

      MetalliC wrote:

      PS: but I think it should work with any common JVS I/O board
      As long as it supports analog controls!
      I can confirm it works with a Sega v3 JVS I/O, at least. @theoddtech has one of the flight sticks off of my old cab and has it wired up to one.
      Thanks for the info. Ill have to check and see how many of the I/O boards handle analog support. Not sure if I want to build another flight stick conversion like I did with Beast Busters or go with something like the LS-64 analog stick and traditional buttons. Probably getting ahead of myself...see if the board even arrives undamaged. Really not confident on that lol
    • Even if the motherboard doesn't work the rom board will most likely be fine. I bought a working Star Wars Arcade Racer motherboard locally (well, a complete machine really) and a dead Planet Harriers motherboard from the US. Got a working game pretty cheap that way.

      You could probably wire up any analog stick that has pots to it. Heck, I played the game with Pod Racer controls for a while. The Sanwa flight stick is pretty expensive, but it's still being manufactured, so if you want the official stick, it's available. The stick is really well built. It will last a life time in home use.

      As for the connectors, seeing as you're just connecting everything to the IO board, you just need the connectors for that. Analog and digital input connectors are JST RA, but as it's 2.54mm pitch, you can use Dupont connectors if you wanted. Power input connector is JST NH.
    • nem wrote:

      Even if the motherboard doesn't work the rom board will most likely be fine. I bought a working Star Wars Arcade Racer motherboard locally (well, a complete machine really) and a dead Planet Harriers motherboard from the US. Got a working game pretty cheap that way.

      You could probably wire up any analog stick that has pots to it. Heck, I played the game with Pod Racer controls for a while. The Sanwa flight stick is pretty expensive, but it's still being manufactured, so if you want the official stick, it's available. The stick is really well built. It will last a life time in home use.

      As for the connectors, seeing as you're just connecting everything to the IO board, you just need the connectors for that. Analog and digital input connectors are JST RA, but as it's 2.54mm pitch, you can use Dupont connectors if you wanted. Power input connector is JST NH.
      Thanks for the info on the connectors. Always useful!

      Board should be here today or tomorrow
    • rewrite wrote:


      Her packing is atrocious, but more than half of what I've bought from her over the past year or so has worked.

      awbacon1 wrote:

      DOA. Terrible packaging. All boards disconnected from main pcb and just piled on top of one another. One smc completely off board. Requested a return.

      Definitely the same lady then!
      On the hunt for: Dinoking, Mushiking, Love & Berry, Egret 29, Grand Am Q25, Capcom New Concept 2, and Naomi guncabs.
    • For sure. Sucks too...I mean I know the boards are fragile AF but it didn't even have a fighting chance.

      If for some weird reason she doesn't have me send it back and just refunds I wonder if there are any reball workstations in Chicago. Worth a shot

      No way I can hand tin all the pads on the chip and reflow...my skills aren't THAT good
    • CoolFox wrote:

      Yup, most common type of damage. It's always the one on the edge.
      I can envision some type of temporary retention mount for the chips. A piece of cut plexi with thin foam padding under it. Put that over the top of the board where the heat syncs are.

      Flat piece of plexi on bottom, foamed as well. Create a sandwich then gaffers tape together.

      Might decrease flex in the board in transit. Way too late now but that's what came to mind