weird - 100Yen coins get stuck in credit validator on mine
any tips i should know about using that IWISS crimping tool? My parts should be here from digikey this week and hopefully i can find time this weekend to dive inYep, that's Universal Power. On your cabinet you need these for the main controls: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/176299-1/2328051
And these for the kick harness: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/176288-1/5124015
And these contacts: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/175153-1/1149439
Pinouts for the receptacles you're building:
Pinout of the plugs connecting to them (that you have premade, but make sure it matches just in case):
Sure. On the Iwiss, you want to use the third from left section for AMP-UP contacts.
Make sure you position the contact as shown, so that the dividing line of the crimp surfaces is between the insulation and conductor crimp:
Close it to 3 clicks of the ratchet, so that it holds the contact steady, and make sure it's straight as shown:
Now you want to strip the wire so 3mm of conductor is showing and gently insert it with very little force. You will feel it stop naturally, this is the point where you close the tool fully. It takes some practice to get a feel, so try it a bunch on scrap wire.
Here's a quick one I did to give you a general idea of what the Iwiss crimp is like, but mine is set a bit strong for this contact so it pierced the insulation. Play with the setting dial to try to reduce this, but it's not a big deal if it's a little pierced, very hard to get a perfect crimp with tools like this.
Here's an example of a BAD crimp. The main contact body is crushed. This is what happens if you ignore the first picture I posted:
Here's the UP contact crimped with the official tool, to give you an idea of what a "perfect" one looks like:
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wow - thank you for the amazing write up! such great notes - i feel better about attempting this myself now.Sure. On the Iwiss, you want to use the third from left section for AMP-UP contacts.
Make sure you position the contact as shown, so that the dividing line of the crimp surfaces is between the insulation and conductor crimp:
Close it to 3 clicks of the ratchet, so that it holds the contact steady, and make sure it's straight as shown:
Now you want to strip the wire so 3mm of conductor is showing and gently insert it with very little force. You will feel it stop naturally, this is the point where you close the tool fully. It takes some practice to get a feel, so try it a bunch on scrap wire.
Here's a quick one I did to give you a general idea of what the Iwiss crimp is like, but mine is set a bit strong for this contact so it pierced the insulation. Play with the setting dial to try to reduce this, but it's not a big deal if it's a little pierced, very hard to get a perfect crimp with tools like this.
Here's an example of a BAD crimp. The main contact body is crushed. This is what happens if you ignore the first picture I posted:
Here's the UP contact crimped with the official tool, to give you an idea of what a "perfect" one looks like:
another newb question - what kind of wire do you recommend for making a harness?
22AWG stranded UL1007
The connectors in these pics are not the same ii will be using for the AMP UP I’m about to write up, right?Sure. On the Iwiss, you want to use the third from left section for AMP-UP contacts.
Make sure you position the contact as shown, so that the dividing line of the crimp surfaces is between the insulation and conductor crimp:
Close it to 3 clicks of the ratchet, so that it holds the contact steady, and make sure it's straight as shown:
Now you want to strip the wire so 3mm of conductor is showing and gently insert it with very little force. You will feel it stop naturally, this is the point where you close the tool fully. It takes some practice to get a feel, so try it a bunch on scrap wire.
Here's a quick one I did to give you a general idea of what the Iwiss crimp is like, but mine is set a bit strong for this contact so it pierced the insulation. Play with the setting dial to try to reduce this, but it's not a big deal if it's a little pierced, very hard to get a perfect crimp with tools like this.
Here's an example of a BAD crimp. The main contact body is crushed. This is what happens if you ignore the first picture I posted:
Here's the UP contact crimped with the official tool, to give you an idea of what a "perfect" one looks like:
I just got my order from digikey and they look totally different
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That looks like the correct crimp series, but wrong crimp gender. It gets a bit confusing...
The plastic connector body comes in both a Plug and Receptacle.
The crimp connectors come in both Pin and Socket.
You need to pair up the connector body Plug with crimp sockets.
You need to pair up the connector body Receptacle with crimp pins.
You have the crimp pins shown above, you need the crimp sockets (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/175151-1/1152993)
The plastic connector body comes in both a Plug and Receptacle.
The crimp connectors come in both Pin and Socket.
You need to pair up the connector body Plug with crimp sockets.
You need to pair up the connector body Receptacle with crimp pins.
You have the crimp pins shown above, you need the crimp sockets (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/175151-1/1152993)
Ok. Just to make sure I have everything correct. I have this Naomi harness:
And these connectors:
I need those other gendered crimp you listed in the previous post to go with this AMP connector?
When I go to cut the old connector out of my cab, do i just make sure the right input goes into the right receptacle on the AMP connector? it looks like the colors don't match between the old harness and the new one.
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You have the correct contacts for your application. I just messed up and used the wrong gender in my example but everything will be exactly the same (on the official tool, both genders are crimped in the same place). And yes, make sure the right input goes to the right receptacle, don't rely on wire colors because sega and SNK used different colors, and there is no standard.
EDIT: You don't need to buy any female contacts because you have the premade harness. You are good with the contacts and housings you have.
EDIT: You don't need to buy any female contacts because you have the premade harness. You are good with the contacts and housings you have.
Have fun, don't forget to make a bunch of practice crimps to make sure you have it down (assuming you bought plenty of contacts), and do a pull test on the practice ones (pull hard on the contact, it should not come off)
Yeah you just slide it in and it will click into place. top part of the contact facing the top part of the housing. If you need to remove one for whatever reason, use a straighened paperclip at the top of the contact from the front while you pull the cable out the back.
It really doesn't matter. I'd just get a nice piece of plywood, spend the few extra bucks for the better one, will cut cleaner and look nicer
thanks. I figured as much but wanted to make sure!
A friend brought a piece of plywood by for me to laser cut for him and just got the cheapest piece the store had. No big deal, not trying to shame him for it or anything lol. It was just for a hidden shelf in his Astro.
But I definitely confirmed what I'd read but never tested, cheap ply cuts like ass on a laser. I did 3 passes and still had to break out parts by hand and sand them.
It's not quite as bad on a saw, but still, you'll see the difference with the voids and filler. It's worth spending a bit more if the look of things matters to you imo.
But I definitely confirmed what I'd read but never tested, cheap ply cuts like ass on a laser. I did 3 passes and still had to break out parts by hand and sand them.
It's not quite as bad on a saw, but still, you'll see the difference with the voids and filler. It's worth spending a bit more if the look of things matters to you imo.
Plywood can be gorgeous, especially the more expensive stuff, if used properly, sealed, cut with the right blade, etc...
I would suggest get MDF which to me is a better option, if you dont plan to repeatedly screw boards to (plywood is better for that). If you dont have a table saw and/or router, just get your local hardware store, ie Home Depot to cut it for you to the size you need.
I would suggest get MDF which to me is a better option, if you dont plan to repeatedly screw boards to (plywood is better for that). If you dont have a table saw and/or router, just get your local hardware store, ie Home Depot to cut it for you to the size you need.
