For reference, there’s two models of Seimitsu sticks. The “01” specifies they’re for the 5-pin harness.
Mounting screws from memory are M3?
Mounting screws from memory are M3?
Can I use the 5 pin joysticks with my 8 pin harness?For reference, there’s two models of Seimitsu sticks. The “01” specifies they’re for the 5-pin harness.
Mounting screws from memory are M3?
You could just convert it if you want, or wire up a new harness.Can I use the 5 pin joysticks with my 8 pin harness?
I got my JST connectors in and was ready to unify the grounds but then I noticed my 5 pin JST connector was too small.You could just convert it if you want, or wire up a new harness.
As far as the grounds, just use a cap connector and crimp them all together. Official harnesses from SEGA for Astro, Blast, and NNC come that way (button/stick grounds crimped into cap connector).
Idk. What’s an NH connector and what connector do you reccomend I buy?Isn't it just an NH connector?
olleyball: Beach Spikers and super Volley Ball / Power Spikes
I use those type of connector:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10000184121807.html
2,50 pitch, they are prety generic but works.
Thanks for that. I ordered a couple to try them. they look a lot like the ones that were too small for me. Finger crossed..You need one of these connectors-
https://focusattack.com/5-pin-wiring-harness/
You can buy the housing and pins and make it yourself, but JST and most other manufacturers are pretty backed up at the moment
functional but ugly. At some point in it's life a previous owner used body filler and welded a metal plate to cover the 1P/2P start buttons. Not sure if this can be undone. It is technically two separate pieces but due to the body filler and paint job they have been sealed as one piece. At the bare minimum I would recommend a sand blast and paint job or powder coating to make it look respectable again.
I'm surprised you haven't invested in a media blaster cabinet. I wonder if that would have helped. I'm tired from just thinking of all that work. Of course I am recovering from rotator cuff surgeryIts been over a year and a half since I posted. Time to fix that
After my last 4 Aero City restores. I decided to give 5th "parts Aero" the same treatment.
I sold @RandomRetro my CP from my parts Aero and found a sold listing here with a top piece Control Panel from @andynumbers and bought @Hakkyokuken Alberto panel he no longer needed.
This Panel had been heavily modified by a car enthusiast and covered in Bondo to smooth out the edges of the 2 piece original CP to make it "one piece".
I think he was going for a white iPod control deck look..
Here's @andynumbers description of the hilarious bondo autobody panel:
Well here goes the reversal. My neck was cramping just looking at it:
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I grabbed everything but the tool I needed (a chisel) and snagged a flathead, hammer, scraper, spackle knife, and razor knife and got ready to pry this apart.
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The 2 panels separated eventually with some precise razor knifing around the inside CP panel but that just uncovered my worst enemy.. TONS of Bondo!
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Bondo removal took the most amount of time and seemed futile at certain moments as hammering a scraper and screw driver did nothing against the rubbery cement and everything to my wrist.
After 2 and a half hours I finished the first piece..
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Just as before I had to take layers of Bondo off the center piece but got a little better and my wrist angles and pressure points. It went quickly until I encountered this. This guy might not have been the best painter but unfortunately for me he was very good welder.. He welded the 1P2P original start button holes I needed for my MVS CP..
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I had to hammer SO hard with the scraper to slowly break through the solder. And even then he fused the weld to the sides of the holes. So ill have to come back with my titanium conical drill bit to finish the attached welds.
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All in all I call this a success and like everything in this hobby took forever. My photo timestamps say 6:49 PM to 10:04 PM of non stop Bondo removal.
Off to my powder coater!
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