Blast City PSU power filter cap

[JSN_]

Hi all, I’m having trouble getting this large cap out… any tips?

My hakko wont fit over the thicker leads and I’m having a heck of a time getting the old stuff out.

 

[kikaso]

I would recommend sucking up as much of the old solder with the desoldering gun then using your iron to gently coax it out. Use lots of flux here. If you get movement on one leg, alternate to the other leg and go back and forth.

Those capacitors are leggy boi’s and soak up lots of heat so you may have to crank the temperature up on your iron. Just be careful to not leave the iron on the board for too long or you’ll lift a trace.

Good luck!

 

[JSN_]

Ok. I usually am just removing the normal size caps.

I have a smaller tip i could use, would it make sense to poke that in the hole and wiggle it?

“that’s what she said”

No but seriously

 

[skate323k137]

I would recommend sucking up as much of the old solder with the desoldering gun then using your iron to gently coax it out. Use lots of flux here. If you get movement on one leg, alternate to the other leg and go back and forth.

Those capacitors are leggy boi’s and soak up lots of heat so you may have to crank the temperature up on your iron. Just be careful to not leave the iron on the board for too long or you’ll lift a trace.

Keeping this in mind, sometimes it actually helps to leave a ball of solder on each pad if you're going to alternate the iron back and forth between them. It keeps the joint flowed longer. 60/40 instead of 63/37, or even the special low temp solder sticks made for SMD rework can come in handy.

These filter caps suck because of the lead shape, you do have to be careful not to damage or rip out pads/vias in the process

Also, chipquik tack flux will let you get in there real well (or any flux really) if this solder has already been flowed several times. One of the reasons you always hear "adding solder helps remove solder" is because people use flux core solder. Many times, some flux would just do the trick too.

 

[kikaso]

These filter caps suck because of the lead shape, you do have to be careful not to damage or rip out pads/vias in the process

Very good point. The big filter caps have oddly shaped leads. Almost as if they’re twisted onto board then soldered.

I have a smaller tip i could use, would it make sense to poke that in the hole and wiggle it?

As @skate323k137 said, try leaving a small blob of solder if you’re going to be alternating heating the legs. If you’re trying to remove all of the solder, you can use the desoldering gun next to the capacitor lead and suck up as much as possible—it helps to add solder so that you have enough to provide some suction. You can finish removing remaining solder with a wick.

Keep in mind that removing the solder won’t loosen the filter cap. Unlike the smaller capacitors, these filter caps have a tighter hold on the board and won’t easily pop out if cleared of solder. They almost always need a little convincing with an iron.

 

[JSN_]

I’m giving up for now. This is starting to frustrate me after attempting twice

 

[imbord3rlin3]

buy a bigger tip for your hakko. use the right tip for the job and you will have a much better time. it def wont be the last time ur gonna be desoldering bigger leads

 

[skate323k137]

I’m giving up for now. This is starting to frustrate me after attempting twice

Wise, honestly. Nothing good comes from working frustrated, at least when soldering is involved.

 

[kikaso]

buy a bigger tip for your hakko. use the right tip for the job and you will have a much better time. it def wont be the last time ur gonna be desoldering bigger leads

this is good advice. Getting the bigger tip makes removing filter caps (and heat sinks) much easier.

 

[JSN_]

I got the 1.6mm sucker nozzle tip coming in. Hopefully that’s enough!

 

[imbord3rlin3]

I got the 1.6mm sucker nozzle tip coming in. Hopefully that’s enough!

might be a little big. id go with the 1.2, a 1, and a .8. too mig a nozzle is just as un-fun to work with as one thats too small

 

[advans14]

add more solder, also flux.

 

[notsonic]

I realized my desoldering gun was giving me more trouble than it was worth. I switched back to desoldering braid and things couldn't be smoother. I recently did my Astro's PSU with a similarly large filter cap entirely with desoldering braid and 0 headaches.

 

[tiff_lee]

It's already been touched on but for clarification that cap is a 'snap-in' type. As not @notsonic suggested solder braid is a good option on these, remove all solder so the cap is free to remove from the board, unlike most caps it doesn't simply pull straight out (due to the snap-in leads).
A good brand of solder braid is 'GOOT', I was impressed with how well it wicks up solder.

 

[imbord3rlin3]

It's already been touched on but for clarification that cap is a 'snap-in' type. As not @notsonic suggested solder braid is a good option on these, remove all solder so the cap is free to remove from the board, unlike most caps it doesn't simply pull straight out (due to the snap-in leads).
A good brand of solder braid is 'GOOT', I was impressed with how well it wicks up solder.

ohh i didnt read that part. wick is the way to go for those. i thought it was just a thicker lead

 

[BuddyC]

I always follow the golden rule.
Add solder to remove solder.

Add lots of fresh solder (I use 63/37) With your solder iron in one hand and your
de soldering gun in the other. Heat up the joint with your iron and remove all solder with your de solder gun. I have never had any issues with removing filter cap using this method.

Best of luck!

 

[skate323k137]

Using eutectic (63/37) solder for desoldering where you may need to move the component is counter productive, as it has no plastic temp range during cooling and sets to a rigid hold faster. This makes it ideal for assembly of course, but not rework IMHO. With a good vacuum you can remove it, but 60/40 or low temp rework solder is better.

Adding solder is good if you can't get contact to flow at all but usually the problem is lack of Flux not solder. And dirty iron tips.

I only use braid for smd stuff typically, like unbridging shorted pins on a SOIC chip. It's almost always a vacuum desoldering iron otherwise. But to each their own as long as you know your tools and skill level/comfort level.

 

[JSN_]

But to each their own as long as you know your tools and skill level/comfort level.

I'd say I'm in the intermediate range. Most of my work has been on consoles however, and I think part of my issue is that I don't want to ruin this PCB due to the fact that it's kind of hard to get a replacement. I did an NESRGB mod with a hand sucker pump and I was less scared.

@tiff_lee I have heard of GOOT wick before, and I think i'll give it a shot because I absolutely hate the stuff i have now. MG chemicals superwick... not a fan.

 

[JSN_]

I always follow the golden rule.
Add solder to remove solder.

Add lots of fresh solder (I use 63/37) With your solder iron in one hand and your
de soldering gun in the other. Heat up the joint with your iron and remove all solder with your de solder gun. I have never had any issues with removing filter cap using this method.

Best of luck!

Oh trust me I've been adding and removing, and adding again. I just can't seem to get enough out to be able to get any play from one of the leads.

Solder is 60/40 rosin core .8mm

 

[BuddyC]

Oh trust me I've been adding and removing, and adding again. I just can't seem to get enough out to be able to get any play from one of the leads.

Solder is 60/40 rosin core .8mm

Did you try to heat up one leg of the filter cap with your soldering iron and then using your de soldering gun as a vacuum cleaner while your iron is on the leg and solder is flowing? I call it dual wielding