Recent content by BuddyC

Nice! Enjoy!

Yup. Pop out the red one and connect the white one in the red socket.

Just be careful when removing the black back cover. You don’t need to touch the CRT at all.

@Thomas did a great tread on his Net City restoration. Lots of great info here. https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/sega-net-city-restoration.24078/

Sadly not that easy. You first need to remove the front panel shroud. 4 screws in the front. 2 accessible from opening the control panel. Then you need to unplug the speakers connectors since the speakers are fastened to the plastic back panel. Suck when you forget to unplug them… Take a...

Had a spare MS2931 available. This is most likely your chassis. You need T20 safety torx bit/screwdriver to get to it. Vga cable should be connected here: VGA is most likely connected to the low impedance input like this: Change it to this for jamma. Hope it helps

31khz games like Naomi will look super dim when connected to the high impedance connector. 15khz games like CPS2 and MVS should look great.

A tri sync helper will fix this. Or you can change the input on the chassis to high impedance.

You are most likely sending Jamma level RGB (high-impedance input on the monitor chassis) through VGA level RGB (low-impedance on the chassis). The results will be what you are experiencing on 3rd strike. White etc will be super blown out and look weird as hell.

Then you should have a Nanao MS-2931 chassis. Info on how to get to the extended menu in the link below. https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Nanao_MS-2931

I have 2 spare jammafiers (rev 1.7c) with tri-sync helper that I don’t need anymore since I only have 15/24khz cabs. PM me if you’re interested..

I can’t remember I had any issues with audio.

As far as I recall, the jammafier does not introduce any lag. I have had a couple of New Net City’s and all of them showed the same issue as your 3rd strike, while others (like MVS) looked fine. On older revisions of the jammafier, it was a external add on called tri-sync helper that fixed the...

One of these fixed the same issue for me. Including CPS3 multi. https://irkenlabs.com/product/jammafier/

Did some probing and it is indeed the -5v who is the sinner. Looks like it has just the right amount of juice for T unit boards (-4,3V running) and just to little for wolf unit boards (-2,8V running). Did a swap with a spare AC PSU and everything is working now, but I will have to sort out that...