Recent content by danzk

My experience with akishop ording some buttons was that it took them about a month to actually get them shipped out. I didn't get any replies to my questions either.

Using sammargh's method of remapping keys would remapping abcdefg -> anihdyu to work?

I'm located in Melbourne and I'm asking for $850.

Does anyone know if it would be possible to do a US Qwerty to US Dvorak remap?

Is anyone interested in a brand new Wei-Ya M3129DS 29" Tri Sync Monitor? I have a few for sale still in original packaging.

Wanted to share a simple mod I did to my Capcom I/O board to get 6 buttons without needing a kick harness and rewiring my cabinet. The Atomiswave SD has buttons 1 to 5 on the Jamma edge and button 6 on a separate connector. I soldered wires for buttons 4 & 5 from the JAMMA edge to the 34pin...

I checked with a multimeter and it was reading 3.2V, so a brand new battery. I ended up replacing the HDD with an SSD and that seemed to fix the problem.

I recently got a Type X that was a Half Life 2: Survivor board that's been swapped out with a multi. I've been getting a RTC F1 prompt in the BIOS even with a brand new battery. Seems like the previous owner already replaced battery holder. Could it be that HL2 board doesn't like the battery...

I followed the field test guide and here's what I got. Filament volts – ok Bias Voltages – Nothing Cutoff – Nothing Reactivate – Nothing Restore - Nothing

Requested. I'll definitely give it a shot.

Thanks a lot, it that definitely confirms that there's something wrong with my unit. Not really sure what i'm going to do about it, seems like Sencore don't really want to repair these units anymore.

I recently bought a Sencore CR7000 off ebay and it isn't working quite right. None of the RGB knobs work when adjusting the cutoff and lo tracking. I've tried different adapters and even when I test a working tube it says that it's dead. Can someone with a working CR7000 please do me favour...