as soon as I saw the price of 5 I was keen to see how real it was and I was utterly disappointed to find out it was actually a boot and not just a really, really good price. it's one of the 5 MVS carts I've still to get for a full set as well.
I got my NAC in and upstairs no issue after I'd taken the control panel off it and the monitor was out. Depending where you're getting it from you may want to open it up and give it a real good clean down anyway. There's usually about 25-30 years worth of Japanese arcade grime and smoke inside...
my Shock Troopers cart was absolutely pristine when I got it but there were some weird gfx glitches.
Went all over the boards and everything looked alright apart from 1 trace that didnt' look corroded or anything but it just wasn't quite as good as all the others. checked continuity and it was...
true dat! I don't play it any other way than on my DC with twin sticks. Interestingly, I was talking to the Bitmap Bureau guys at an expo last year and they had some modded Megadrive/Genesis controllers from some Japanese modder, which has enabled twin sticks. Instantly made it more playable.
Personally, I'd go the route of the new chassis. You could pick up another crt without too much of a bother but a spare MS29 is a lot harder to come by.
I had thought it might have been part of the ArcadeOffset set but seems it's only FreePlay or Training hacks that exist for it. https://github.com/atrac17/Arcade_Offset
not a bother at all. TBH, MVS Scans is always my first port of call when checking authenticity. If the chips match, then I'm happy. have never queried board revisions etc just that all the right chips are in all the right places and match some sort of variant on there.
that's exactly it. the number relates to the NGH number assigned to the game. there's a master list here: https://www.neo-geo.com/snk/master_list-ngh.htm
every official chip will have the ngh number printed on the chip. SNK also only used Toshiba, possibly Sharp, own branded SNK or, laterally...
I bought the very same thing! it's was hard to resist.
I can only assume to jumper dip8 would be nothing more than soldering the 2 bottom pads of where the switches were, to 2 wires and then twisting them together. (doing 2 wires instead of 1 at least gives you the control of off/on)
that's to...
not for hard dips but if you boot into the HW menu with unibios B+C+D and go to hard dips, it should show what's ON/OFF . if it is that, you will likely need to try and trace what dip8 controlled on the board and see if you can either jumper it or find where the problem could be.
can find some...