Recent content by jord4n313

Yes unfortunately it seems it’s probably too good to be true for a general replacement supergun. I guess I’ll be hanging on to my big brick of a psu for my HAS

To be fair that picture was taken from a thread of a dude testing diff controllers and it said that the Saturn pro didn’t work. I just liked that picture best. Also there are USB-C power adapters that can do up to 165W or maybe more. My laptop requires at least a 90W USB-C and Dell has an XPS...

Has anyone had any experience with the easy arcade 2? https://shuichitakano.github.io/easy_arcade/easy_arcade.html I currently use a HAS but this thing looks really slick with the 3D printed case using USB-C power, Nintendo style multi-out, and usb encoders for controllers with easily remapped...

What is the little slot next to the round power connector?

I don’t think it will be an issue - it isn’t much taller than the connector so it’s not really adding much to the height. Have top finished just trying to work on a slide switch now.

Ok the main box is complete. Nice tight fit around the connector. Everything is so carefully dialed in that I can probably remove the recessed screw holes entirely because it’s a very nice friction fit. I also increased the thickness of the base so that it sits flat on the shelf behind the Marty...

Plan is to have a large plastic slide switch with a little hole for the real switch to go into, this would protrude through the lid to allow to slide on/off. I’m having fun learning - this is the first 3D print I have designed myself from the ground up.

I have started creating a case for the memory expansion. I have the footprint done with countersunk screw holes coming up through the bottom. I just need to finishing tightening up around the hole for the connector and then make the snap on lid. I will upload when finished. I hated leaving it...

Does it just need a recap or what?

Has anyone ever created a 3D printed case for the RAM Expansion yet? I recently purchased one of the RAM boards, but I don't like the idea of leaving the bare unprotected board plugged into my Marty.

Hi all I’m in need of a good condition B board shell top (willing to buy top and bottom). The one I have on my Multi is pretty beat up (cracks/deep scratches). I don’t want to take apart a functional B board for it so I am hoping someone has one to sell from a dead board. Any color is fine.

Thanks I used the Arthrimus Quick Solder Bus, I guess I’ll try removing it and doing a straight wiring setup. Are there alternate points I could use to test continuity for the keyharness wires? Edit: Awesome! I reflowed the solder for the Setup 1 and Setup 2 points in the Arthrimus Quick Solder...

would the key writing wires affect it not auto reset after loading a game?

yes used my desoldering station to pull it out whole, came out easy also i did realize that i dont need to remove the sd card for the hacks, if i select them and let it flash the game/key then power the cps2 off then on they play perfectly is there a specific amount of time required to short...

So I had a cps2 with a dead battery, it wouldnt boot but the battery still had some voltage, so i shorted exc5 but i still get a purple screen after it flashes a game and writes a key, however if the game is a hack like MvC Unlocked or Vampire Savior Hack then if I reboot the cp2 without the sd...