Recent content by p_ja

I think it's the one at the bottom of this page: https://igspgm.com/engtrans/index.htm (with the disclaimer that I haven't tried this yet, but I think that's what you're asking about :P )

Thanks you both for the answer, I opted for removing R24 since it seems simpler (and well, I don't have that diode at hand), but with the PGM turned on I'm still measuring 2.5V across the battery holder (so lower than before but still not zero), is this expected? Doesn't this indicate that it's...

I don't think this is right, I think you need to in fact provide it with 3.3V which is why the bill of materials includes a 3.3V voltage regulator (REG1117). In particular I think this is due to the host shield, at least the aliexpress listing I bought it from mentions it only works properly...

My understanding is that these pins are for programming the AVR microcontrollers, e.g. see: https://docs.arduino.cc/built-in-examples/arduino-isp/ArduinoISP/#how-to-wire-your-boards But normally you shouldn't need them because Arduinos are already preprogrammed with a bootloader that makes it...

To resurrect this thread a bit, I also have a revision 1 board that someone worked on before, and had a battery holder installed, and sure enough there's like 4.7 volts across it so the charging circuit was not disabled. What is the proper mod for this revision? This thread mentions both adding...

There is actually quite a big difference, at least from what I've tried with the instant quota - with default settings, 5 pieces of char board was 12.40$, while the prog board is $35.20 (the "board" cost only jumps about 3$, but "engineering fee" goes from 4$ to 24$). This is with default...

So good news: programming the GAL and repeating Softdrink's repair actually made the cart boot! Bad news: I think I managed to snatch defeat from the jaws of victory anyway :P On my first try after I put the cart back together there was no picture at all and supergun dropped to 4.7V which made...

Well, that makes sense. I attempted a repair today, starting with easy stuff (missing capacitors, pullup resistor, then swapping the EPROM and populating the resistor arrays) and none of this made any difference, the only thing I didn't do is the new GAL (don't have the new chip for it yet). I...

Right, but as far I understand the previous discussion, I think no one actually has the GAL dump that is correct for this particular bootleg, so I would have to bodge in some wires to use the GAL that Softdrink used for the repair? Or has that changed since then?

Second time's the charm! That being said, I'm not sure what did I do differently this time - your advice about the serial monitor came already after I commited some desoldering crimes on the first attempt so we'll never know :P I also redid the joints that looked suspect the first time...

I found these posts interesting, because I seem to have the same problem - got a Ketsui bootleg that looks similar to this one, and it just boots into green garbage: I bought it like a year ago at this point, but I chalked it up to my shady aliexpress PGM motherboard since I didn't have other...

So I finally tried to make this one, but so far I'm not having any luck in getting this to work. Tried with every USB controller I own (two of which are explicitly listed as supported: Buffalo USB SNES gamepad and Logitech F310) and I'm not getting any inputs on the supergun side, no matter what...

I was thinking of trying to assemble this one, since it would be very handy for the Minigun I just built, but I randomly found the post in the HAS thread about the backwards transistor - am I correct in thinking that current Gerbers still have this problem? Is there an easy fix for this like an...

I'm happy to report I managed to build one as well! It was great fun, but it's actually my second attempt at it, the first attempt a couple of months ago was one of the first things I seriously attempted to solder and it didn't have a happy ending, although mostly due to a very silly thing. I...