Recent content by Slypty

I went in blind on this repair, to work with just the chassis and no cab or tube was a guessing game, and I guessed wrong. There were a few dead resistors and bad caps, but overall the board was in decent shape. The prior attempts to get the tube started had shown neck glow on the filaments...

I can minimize the moire effect, the only way I found works is find a decent contrast and bright level, some combinations will eliminate it. You must have the DPL version which is 100hz, the TOP version I have is 15khz. I think the moire may be partially due to an incorrect A+ voltage, but I'm...

A few screenshots. Any tips on getting rid or lowering moire?

Must be nice to have Grundigs with Toshiba tubes around, i don't think any consumer sets really compare after playing on the Grundig. I'll take a few pics tonight, I got in to the service menu and made some adjustments. Does yours' have any moire? Do you know a way to cancel it out?

Well that was a dusty debacle. I couldn't leave this Grundig chassis all full of dust if it's going to be a daily driver. It's actually a very cool design, a Philips IC with a Blast tube is a very nice match. Porsche IC might be behind the service menu options. Very bright and amazing...

Found this Porsche chip on the LCD board, it was behind the chassis under the tube. Not sure what Porsche had to do with a TDA (vid processing?) IC, a little odd.

Thanks for sharing that! I just ordered the TP760 from Germany a few days ago, so I can't check out what menus I have. In fact, I can't even adjust brightness yet, only volume and inputs. I'll report back once the remote arrives, thanks for sharing the vid I'd like to try it I was reading...

Maybe you're right. Just got hopeful to have a monitor that takes care of 15-31khz.. but it's a bit ambitious considering the majority of my gaming is done on 15khz content.

C'mon man a D-Series? I'd be downgrading a lot. I'm just hoping to run a MiSTerCade Jamma Kit in to it. I already own some high quality monitors. Anyways I won't bore you with my setup, I'm just testing the waters.

Just talked with the Blast chassis owner, he might sell it to me if the cost of repair is too high. This Blast needs a complete overhaul, so I had to give a high quote for parts etc. Anyways he's thinking about it. Here's some pics of the POTs, they have filament glow but no picture. I'm...

Note taken, won't try that. Thank you

I'd need to find my own MS-29 chassis, but wouldn't know how to turn it On with out a Cab and all the buttons and switches. Is there a switchboard one can purchase to go with an arcade chassis that delivers these options? This one's perfect but pricy Sanwa 15-31khz I'd consider housing the...

I'll check but might be a while. I'm torn between keeping the Grundig or getting a 15-31khkz chassis to use instead

I actually have a Blast City mainboard here I'm starting a repair for someone. I'm aware that the Blast is up to 31khz, would I risk damaging the Grundig's yoke if I threw the Blast board in it? I don't have the tube of the Blast so I can't just swap yokes right now. I could probably get the PSU

I've recapped a Blast City before and had success, but I did everything at home and it worked after install. So I'm not completely out of it but never needed to do a tube swap. Grundigs would be rare here, seems that there's at least 5 models that carry this tube. Maybe I just opened a...