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Hi Guys, i seem to have no audio coming out of my mistercade - i followed the setup guide, i get a perfect picture and everything is playable but no sound. I checked the volumes and turning to max on mister, the machine itself and in the OSD does nothing. Any ideas?

If i plug my CPS2 board back in it works fine so it doesn't look like it's the cabinet. It's a Sega new astrocity cab. Trying to get audio via jamma like normal.

Edit: Fixed - dip switch setting on mistercade. It looks like the default settings don't quite match the manual, no biggie.
 
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Yes, you can power via DE10-nano for now - 12V is only used for the audio amp and to generate 5V.

Just want to post a quick update:

I've tested the mistercade with the de10 nano power adapter, and the color saturation was the same, so I don't think is the PSU, anyway, I did some minor adjustments and I'm now happy with the picture.

Nevertheless, when my jamma extender arrives, I will try to make somo adjustments and will post the results.
 
Hi Guys, i seem to have no audio coming out of my mistercade - i followed the setup guide, i get a perfect picture and everything is playable but no sound. I checked the volumes and turning to max on mister, the machine itself and in the OSD does nothing. Any ideas?

If i plug my CPS2 board back in it works fine so it doesn't look like it's the cabinet. It's a Sega new astrocity cab. Trying to get audio via jamma like normal.

Edit: Fixed - dip switch setting on mistercade. It looks like the default settings don't quite match the manual, no biggie.
What specifically did you do differently? Can you post a picture?

I have a single mono-speaker in what is a new Namco-style cabinet which originally housed an iCade 60-1 board. I’m not getting a sound out of that speaker when connected via JAMMA and connecting to my monitor via analog VGA on the MISTercade. But when I connect to my monitor directly to the DE-10 Nano via HDMI, the sound comes out of my monitor (it’s weak, but you can hear it). The MISTercade volume know is rotated to max. Volume in the MISTer F12 menu is set to 100%.

Right now, I’ve just connected a powered speaker via 3.5mm to carry the sound to my satisfaction, but I’d like to figure out why I’m not getting sound out of my cabinet’s speaker.
 
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Just want to post a quick update:

I've tested the mistercade with the de10 nano power adapter, and the color saturation was the same, so I don't think is the PSU, anyway, I did some minor adjustments and I'm now happy with the picture.

Nevertheless, when my jamma extender arrives, I will try to make somo adjustments and will post the results.
I ordered this for my color over-saturation issues when connected via VGA (JAMMA):
https://www.axunworks.com/h-product-detail.html?goods_id=669521

I’ll post results when I receive It.

For now, I connected to my monitor via HDMI from the DE10-Nano and it’s running fine. The scaling is just a tad off when connected via HDMI versus analog VGA though, so some of the vertical games are stretched just a bit much left to right when run in vertical mode, so my preference would be to connect via analog VGA. It looks incredible (arcade perfection) when connected via analog VGA, but the color over-saturation makes some games unplayable.
 
What specifically did you do differently? Can you post a picture?

I have a single mono-speaker in what is a new Namco-style cabinet which originally housed an iCade 60-1 board. I’m not getting a sound out of that speaker when connected via JAMMA and connecting to my monitor via analog VGA on the MISTercade. But when I connect to my monitor directly to the DE-10 Nano via HDMI, the sound comes out of my monitor (it’s weak, but you can hear it). The MISTercade volume know is rotated to max. Volume in the MISTer F12 menu is set to 100%.

Right now, I’ve just connected a powered speaker via 3.5mm to carry the sound to my satisfaction, but I’d like to figure out why I’m not getting sound out of my cabinet’s speaker.

Two things to check:
1) Make sure that SW0 on the DE-10 Nano is switched towards the center of the PCB.
2) Make sure the AMP STBY DIP Switch is turned OFF.
 
Two things to check:
1) Make sure that SW0 on the DE-10 Nano is switched towards the center of the PCB.
2) Make sure the AMP STBY DIP Switch is turned OFF.

Those dip switches are set exactly as you described. I set SW0 on the DE10 Nano just exactly as you outlined in your YT setup video. And the AMP STBY dip is (as you can see) set to OFF.
 

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Those dip switches are set exactly as you described. I set SW0 on the DE10 Nano just exactly as you outlined in your YT setup video. And the AMP STBY dip is (as you can see) set to OFF.

AMP STBY is the dip switch i had to change, but mine looks to be set the same as yours.

Here are my dip settings, however i only changed AMP STBY the rest are as i recieved the board

mistercadejumper.jpg


Also the other thing i did as part of setup was copy the mister.ini and the other config files over from the mistercade github, so i'm not sure if the sound settings are set in one of those files (i just copied them all across). Also i'm using the 15khz mister.ini (renamed to MiSTer.ini and dropped into the root dir of course).
 
What specifically did you do differently? Can you post a picture?

I have a single mono-speaker in what is a new Namco-style cabinet which originally housed an iCade 60-1 board. I’m not getting a sound out of that speaker when connected via JAMMA and connecting to my monitor via analog VGA on the MISTercade. But when I connect to my monitor directly to the DE-10 Nano via HDMI, the sound comes out of my monitor (it’s weak, but you can hear it). The MISTercade volume know is rotated to max. Volume in the MISTer F12 menu is set to 100%.

Right now, I’ve just connected a powered speaker via 3.5mm to carry the sound to my satisfaction, but I’d like to figure out why I’m not getting sound out of my cabinet’s speaker.

A few questions:
1) The speaker does produce audio with a regular JAMMA board, correct?
2) Do you have a multimeter? If so, check for continuity on the two speaker wires between the speaker terminals to where they connect on the JAMMA harness (Pin 10 topside is speaker positive, and the pin underneath it is speaker negative).
3) Do you have the MiSTercade connected directly to the cabinet's JAMMA harness or are you going through a switcher of some kind?
4) Does the MiSTercade heatsink get warm after the cabinet has been on for 10 - 15 minutes?
 
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A few questions:
1) The speaker does produce audio with a regular JAMMA board, correct?
2) Do you have a multimeter? If so, check for continuity on the two speaker wires between the speaker terminals to where they connect on the JAMMA harness (Pin 10 topside is speaker positive, and the pin underneath it is speaker negative).
3) Do you have the MiSTercade connected directly to the cabinet's JAMMA harness or are you going through a switcher of some kind?
4) Does the MiSTercade heatsink get warm after the cabinet has been on for 10 - 15 minutes?
1) My mono speaker produces sound when the JAMMA is connected to the 60-1 board. It does not produce sound when the JAMMA is connected to the MISTercade.
2) Yes, my multimeter shows good continuity from the JAMMA harness (pin 10 + and pin underneath - ) all the way to the mono-speaker behind the marquee.
3) Yes, the JAMMA is connected directly to the cabinet's JAMMA harness, no switcher installed (presently).
4) I also own a MISTer in the aluminum case from MISTer Addons, the heat feels normal and no noticeable changes after 10-15 minutes.

I've added pics to hopefully help me make sense of this problem. NOTE: I can't seem to get them to show in order, but I've taken some pics to show the JAMMA attached to my 60-1 board and then finally attached to my MISTercade. Hopefully, it makes sense. And the Oontz Angle speaker is not connected to the MISTercade or 60-1 in any of these pics. To get some sound, I've been hooking that up to the 3.5mm on the MISTercade and it works for now until I can get this speaker issue sorted out. Also to note, the MISTercade volume knob correctly modulates the loudness of the Oontz angle speaker (when connected via 3.5mm) as intended.
 

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Three additional pics...
 

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Thanks for the answers and pics. It sounds like everything with your cabinet and speaker are in good working order.

Check and see specifically if the amplifier heatsink on the MiSTercade hat is warming up-it should be warm to the touch after 10-15 minutes. If it’s not then the onboard amplifier likely isn’t functioning and you’ll need to get it exchanged with @misteraddons
 
Hey everybody,

This is a bit off-topic to the above discussion but I figured I’d share here:

I’m working on a mounting bracket for the mistercade. As I remove and put on the jamma connector I’ve noticed the jamma end can feel a bit flimsy (especially if your jamma connector really likes to bite). I would hate to bend the board and crack it or damage traces over time.

I think I finally got all the right measurements for holes. The hope will be to add rigidity to the board and also make it easy to screw into the plywood inside a cabinet without needing extra PCB feet. I’ll post the results when the print is finished (8 or so hours from now). It’s a first draft, so it may require some additional tooling and bracing. Also this is my first real 3D model, so be gentle 😂

I also will be releasing the model on thingiverse with no strings attached when it’s ready.
 
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Thanks for the answers and pics. It sounds like everything with your cabinet and speaker are in good working order.

Check and see specifically if the amplifier heatsink on the MiSTercade hat is warming up-it should be warm to the touch after 10-15 minutes. If it’s not then the onboard amplifier likely isn’t functioning and you’ll need to get it exchanged with @misteraddons
This part is dead cold to the touch and I've had power to it for over an hour...
 

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Absolutely love this thing so far. Been great to play the available arcade cores and I can't wait until some additional ones start making their way to the library. Been reading about some really exciting platforms on the horizon that developers are working on, including PGM, CPS3 and Midway boards.

20211130_144704.jpg


The console stuff is wonderful as well. I have a Jammaizer hooked up to another Astro City so running consoles on a cab is nothing new to me but I do really appreciate the simplicity of this setup and how fast and easy it is to switch between games and cores. Having the controls already pre-mapped and ready to go off the bat is a huge bonus. Jammaizer is still gonna see plenty of use, especially for stuff which isn't supported (yet?) on MiSTer but this is probably my go-to for most of my console arcade gaming moving forward.

Huge thanks to @misteraddons for this wonderful device. One feature I'd love to see in the future as more arcade cores are developed is the addition of 3-4 player support (perhaps through the CPS2 kick harness) but I suppose it's still possible with the additional USB ports so there's hopefully at least that as an option.
 
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Second draft looks good! Feels very rigid. I’ll be heading to Home Depot today to grab some #4 screws and test attaching it to some plywood. As long as that goes ok, I’ll put it on thingiverse.

Would love an acrylic top cover for this to match all my other PCB's with cases
 
Absolutely love this thing so far. Been great to play the available arcade cores and I can't wait until some additional ones start making their way to the library. Been reading about some really exciting platforms on the horizon that developers are working on, including PGM, CPS3 and Midway boards.



The console stuff is wonderful as well. I have a Jammaizer hooked up to another Astro City so running consoles on a cab is nothing new to me but I do really appreciate the simplicity of this setup and how fast and easy it is to switch between games and cores. Having the controls already pre-mapped and ready to go off the bat is a huge bonus. Jammaizer is still gonna see plenty of use, especially for stuff which isn't supported (yet?) on MiSTer but this is probably my go-to for most of my console arcade gaming moving forward.

Huge thanks to @misteraddons for this wonderful device. One feature I'd love to see in the future as more arcade cores are developed is the addition of 3-4 player support (perhaps through the CPS2 kick harness) but I suppose it's still possible with the additional USB ports so there's hopefully at least that as an option.

Did you make that card with the MiSTer instructions at the top of the control panel?

Would love an acrylic top cover for this to match all my other PCB's with cases

Oooh that's a good idea! I'll need to see what that would take to do :)
 
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