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You always test against ground, so red on -5V, black on GND.

But the way you did it proves that -5V is there (you got a difference of 10 volts between +5V and -5V).
 
-5, +12 etc will be OK as you sound section is working. Those Voltages are for the AMP etc.

@stj I had a good supplier in UK for reel 60/40, gone now tho :( .. if you are desperate i have at least a reel spare from my last order as went a little nuts...

And yes, very busy here and won't be the quickest to reply.

You should probably walk away from repairers who don't repair this or that type of hardware.

if you don't think i'm good at repair click my youtube and see for yourself.
The issues here is TIME.

Here's the midway playlist for example:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x379HE9Z3W0&list=PLDYUHUj_xDEVzBG2inU95z6DHzvUd4t72
 
Hmm.. lead free should be easy to obtain , from what i was told it's LEAD that's the problem with the UK's shitty rules.
 
the lead ban is complex.
you can buy it if you want it - cpc has good 60/40 from qualitek
lead-free is stronger and lighter - so that 500g roll has much more on it.
the only problems with leadfree are 1: it will migrate(desolve) small amounts of copper - NiGe fixes that,
and it wont flow with traditional fluxes - but thats been solved too - krystal synthetic or HS10 rosin blended both work really well.
 
Yeah the lead - free i remember is from years ago when it was garbage, tons of heat req'd , poor flow etc... I'm sure it's improved now so maybe worth a look again :)
 
like any type of solder, there is good stuff and crap.
flux is as important as metal mixture too - as it creates the flow.
i try to stick with stannol solder because i know krystol and HS10 fluxcores are really good.
avoid solder with silver in it, it hates being re-flowed.
 
-5, +12 etc will be OK as you sound section is working. Those Voltages are for the AMP etc.

@stj I had a good supplier in UK for reel 60/40, gone now tho :( .. if you are desperate i have at least a reel spare from my last order as went a little nuts...

And yes, very busy here and won't be the quickest to reply.



if you don't think i'm good at repair click my youtube and see for yourself.
The issues here is TIME.

Here's the midway playlist for example:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x379HE9Z3W0&list=PLDYUHUj_xDEVzBG2inU95z6DHzvUd4t72
I like the ending.... What do you expect from the midway master :)

Music to my ears mate
 
Well the result of this one can declare the statement true of false.
Some say i talk shit, lets see.... ;)
 
Well the result of this one can declare the statement true of false.
Some say i talk shit, lets see.... ;)
I have faith mate, true legend if you can fix this board and save my machine from more emulation crap... Also post progress to this thread for us all to see your work.

Pm sent about the board hammy be on route this week mate
 
Plan of action :)
 

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What's the plan of action bro 🤔 replacing all of those or just reaoldering ?
 
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Red - Replace
Blue - Resolder

The row of rom sockets had blue corrosion, 3 of 4 cleaned up ok, the end will prob. need to be changed.

As you can see it's had the capacitors stripped and had a clean so it's gonna be a few days to dry and work will continue.
 
I'm super excited for this repair, following with great interest..
Are the chips easy to get hold of ? Time wise or are they from over seas ?
If this works I'll have the sound board and gun driver board for you to recap lol 😆

Thanks carl
 
What an absolute legend you are sir 🙏
You sir have made my Xmas keep up the good work 👏
 
So rumour has it our dear boy Hammy has fixed my rev x pcb.
What an absolute legend that man is
 
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