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Open Source USB2DB15 for Supergun adapter

Do you mean the file "USB2DB15-Adapter-schematic.pdf"?
In that drawing there are no Arduino-USB Host connections, in fact the USB Host shield is missing.
 
Zeroh said:
Do you mean the file "USB2DB15-Adapter-schematic.pdf"?
In that drawing there are no Arduino-USB Host connections, in fact the USB Host shield is missing.
Click to expand...
That's right, because the custom PCB won't need it. Just solder the USB host shield mini on top of an arduino pro mini. That's it.
If you need more info, look for Usb host shield mini on Google and you will find everything, it's open source.
The project follow the operational standards limits, for power and clock.
If you think our documentation and engineering is wrong or insufficient, i kindly ask you submit a pull request with your modifications or even fork for a new project. It's open source.

Thanks for your time checking USB2DB15.
 
Raph_friend said:
If you need more info, look for Usb host shield mini on Google and you will find everything, it's open source.
Click to expand...

Yeah, thats the reason I'm asking questions here, basically I did a Google search and found conflicting info.
Based on your reply I guess that connecting the other I/O lines won't cause problems.

Raph_friend said:
The project follow the operational standards limits, for power and clock.
Click to expand...

I did a quick check with the datasheets of the parts: The USB Host + Arduino Max power consumption is ~ 65mA.
That amount by itself (Plus there's the USB controller) is unsafe for some (old) computers joystick ports, so for chaining adapters an external power source will be needed.

Also running a 328P/16Mhz device at 3.3V is out of spec. On the Atmega 328/P Datasheet Summary on page 2 it says:
Speed Grade:
– 0 - 4MHz @ 1.8 - 5.5V
– 0 - 10MHz @ 2.7 - 5.5V
– 0 - 20MHz @ 4.5 - 5.5V
Click to expand...

It's possible that the devices will work, because nobody knows the real specs of the Atmel 328 clones that are sold on Ali/Ebay...
But is it reliable? Wouldn't be better to use 8Mhz?

Raph_friend said:
If you think our documentation and engineering is wrong or insufficient, i kindly ask you submit a pull request with your modifications or even fork for a new project. It's open source.
Click to expand...

I don't have a GitHub account so can't do what you suggested.
I'm not criticizing you, I though the people who did the design had already though about the possible problems and could answer some questions or explain the design choices, that's all.
 
Zeroh said:
Yeah, thats the reason I'm asking questions here, basically I did a Google search and found conflicting info.
Based on your reply I guess that connecting the other I/O lines won't cause problems.



I did a quick check with the datasheets of the parts: The USB Host + Arduino Max power consumption is ~ 65mA.
That amount by itself (Plus there's the USB controller) is unsafe for some (old) computers joystick ports, so for chaining adapters an external power source will be needed.

Also running a 328P/16Mhz device at 3.3V is out of spec. On the Atmega 328/P Datasheet Summary on page 2 it says:


It's possible that the devices will work, because nobody knows the real specs of the Atmel 328 clones that are sold on Ali/Ebay...
But is it reliable? Wouldn't be better to use 8Mhz?



I don't have a GitHub account so can't do what you suggested.
I'm not criticizing you, I though the people who did the design had already though about the possible problems and could answer some questions or explain the design choices, that's all.
Click to expand...
This project is made aimed on jamma PCBs and Neogeo, anything you use out of that is your own risk.

The AVR is well used for more than a decade at 3.3V and 16MHz, 8MHz was tested and turn the code to run much slower with some functions. The datasheet says that the AVR can be used between 2.7V till 5.5V and 16MHz "safe" operational is around 3.7V, that's why you won't get any issue with 3.3V, why we engineers work on a limit calculation, for USB2DB15 we are safe.
The 5V regulator has a current max of 1A MAX on the USB output (Vbus), won't necessarily will drain that, but if need, it's there's for usage.
Again, USB2DB15 aims jamma and Neogeo, the DB15 port won't give any power output, there's only INPUT, i know that the out serial DB 15 on computers has diferente pinouts, so i recommend you don't try it.

The project is open for criticism, and we love it, currently there's really few feedbacks and zero reviews in English, so i incentive everyone to check and test this project.

You can always create a GitHub account, there you will be able to submit bugs, suggestions, and even change the code via pull request.

There's the Discord as well, where you can have chat with dev team in realtime.

Thank you.
 
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No ticky... No laundry...

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Zeroh said:
Hello,
I want to buid one adapter with a spare arduino board I have; I've looked at the info on Github but I have a few questions that I couldn't find answers, please help me...

What pins are needed to connect the USB Host to the Arduino? Just the SPI (MISO/MOSI/CLK) and power ? What about SS and INT?

How much power/current (@5v) does the Arduino + USB Host combo need? I'd like to know because while it won't be a problem for SuperGuns, some computers/consoles have limited current capabilities on their control ports.

What kind of Arduino is needed for the project? From the GHub it looks like a 5V-16MHz unit is selected in the IDE, but if it's powered by 3.3V it's running out of spec (2x overclocked).

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Maybe you need to connect D9 and D10 between arduino pro mini and usb host shield , and max_rst pin of usb host shield need to connect to high voltage, at least I tried it ,if you don't connect them, the hardware can't work . 5v 16m arduino works well.
 
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I did a quick wiring test: I connected the SPI, power and D9/D10/RST and replaced the arduino's SOT23 5V regulator with a SOT223 3.3V regulator. So far it seems to work.
I've tested a Qanba RAP Q3 and it uses ~80mA/5V, which is IMHO good. However the stick works only in X360 mode, in PS3/Qanba is unrecognized.
 
After making a snap fit case for the MP07-IONA-US PCB, I decided to make one for the USB2DB15 as well.

The side walls of the case are very thin (.9mm), so it should fit on a Minigun Supergun. PLA should be OK since the snap tabs are much tougher than the ones I used on the MP07-IONA-US case, but I still recommend PETG for better temp resistance.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5267703

USB2DB15 1.jpg
USB2DB15 2.jpg
USB2DB15 3.jpg
 
Zepherino said:
After making a snap fit case for the MP07-IONA-US PCB, I decided to make one for the USB2DB15 as well.

The side walls of the case are very thin (.9mm), so it should fit on a Minigun Supergun. PLA should be OK since the snap tabs are much tougher than the ones I used on the MP07-IONA-US case, but I still recommend PETG for better temp resistance.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5267703
Click to expand...
Nice! Really awesome work - looks like you have the most recent version of the USB2DB15 with all of the components on the one board too, sweet!

Dont forget to cross post here for easy index and search
https://www.arcade-projects.com/forums/3d-printed-cad-cam-arcade-parts.68/

I'm loving the community and co-operation around this project @Raph_friend you have done a good thing
 
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