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Tell whoever operates that MK to get new steering wheel pots in advance. Unlike Sega cabs, even the slightest wrong value will instantly throw a volume error, and if the four cabs are mid multiplayer game, every one of them will error.

I vehemently hate my Wangans and Mario Karts.
 
Tell whoever operates that MK to get new steering wheel pots in advance. Unlike Sega cabs, even the slightest wrong value will instantly throw a volume error, and if the four cabs are mid multiplayer game, every one of them will error.

I vehemently hate my Wangans and Mario Karts.

Thanks for the heads up! Will do!
 
After getting some lovely extended remotes from @invzim , I could finally dial in F-Zero AX.
Nice and bright with colors that pop! Taking pictures of 31khz is a lot harder than 15khz, but I think the result was pretty damn good.
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Today I went on a house call to @invzim. Two of his wonderful cabs needed some calibration and OCD-love. Good times!

New Net City

Chassis had been recaped and looked quite nice, but let’s make it OCD-sexy!
Before ( excuse the shit picture)
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Adjusted the flyback for better use of screen and focus + played with the convergence rings a bit. Used @invzim excellent extended remote for some fine RGB adjustments. Some geometry correction and a single convergence strip on the top right corner produced one hell of an image!

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Scanline-porn!
Happy cab uno!
 
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Aero City

Cab looked good, but why not make it gorgeous?
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Before
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Some of the colors was a bit over saturated and brightness was turned up a bit to much. This produced some unnecessary blooming when image went to a full white image. This tube is starting to get old, so I gave it a quick massage with my trusty B&K 467.
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After some sexy clean and balance everything looked good. ON THE GWEEEEN! (Neo Turf Masters… cough..)

After some RGB correction and making sure the flyback does most of the heavy lifting the Aero City is looking beautiful!

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Happy cab dos!
 
I have been experimenting lately with a new CRT-calibration method of my own design.
Should work with most CRT’s, but will have to experiment more with older tubes before I can conclude my findings.

It involves a lot of work, tools, time and fun with a 20x magnification lens, but I think the results speak for themselves.

Mmmm…. Pretty.
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Oooof!! We need to be best friends, and you need to live very close to my house!

Fine work!
 
Wow, nice work! I have around 10 MS9s here that really need some adjustments. Sweden isn't that far from Norway..... :D
 
Damn dood. Razors aren’t that sharp. Beautiful thing to see.
 
@BuddyC Do you have any tips for calibrating the Toei chassis found in the MVS-U2/4/6 cabs and others of the same vintage? Specifically the TC-HV25LMK but I think there are a bunch that are basically the same. I find it a bit "weird" to calibrate compared to the Nanaos I'm used to. Very difficult to get everything balanced.
 
@BuddyC Do you have any tips for calibrating the Toei chassis found in the MVS-U2/4/6 cabs and others of the same vintage? Specifically the TC-HV25LMK but I think there are a bunch that are basically the same. I find it a bit "weird" to calibrate compared to the Nanaos I'm used to. Very difficult to get everything balanced.
If I recall correctly, The TC-HV25LMK is a lot like the Nanao MS8 when calibrating.
Since it does not have a contrast adjustment, you don’t get unity gain control across all three video channels. This means you need to to adjust the cutoff and gain in harmony with the screen control on the flyback to achieve a decent calibration.
It takes time and shitloads of patience, but will look great if you give it a go.

I would start with a nice color bar. I primarily use a CPS2 test screen.

1. Turn down the R+G+B gain pots to about 50%/ middle mark
2. Do the same with R+G+B BKG pots
3. Do the same with brightness pot
4. Turn up the screen pot on the flyback until the screen gets too bright.
5. Carefully turn down the screen pot until the test screen background is full black again.
6. Adjust R+G+B BKG pot until every color is visable up until the ”2“ mark on the test screen.
7. Adjust the R+G+B gain pots so colors don’t bleed and look as uniform as possible.
Use the botton white bar as a guide. Should be white.
Not overly blu,green or red- white.
8. Adjust screen pot on flyback to achieve pure black. Most likely you need to turn screen down after raising gain and BKG.
9. Change to grid testscreen and adjust focus.

Hope it helps!
 
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Thanks, appreciate it a lot. Yeah it is similar to my MS8-26 but feels a lot more "touchy". I have it in an OK place right now but want to get it as perfect as I can and this will help.

Also, do you have any idea what the blue vertical mark is on the left in these photos? Only happens on very bright white-ish screens. It's not magnetism as degaussing has no effect (using the monitor's coil or a degaussing ring). Shadow mask damage?

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Also, do you have any idea what the blue vertical mark is on the left in these photos? Only happens on very bright white-ish screens. It's not magnetism as degaussing has no effect (using the monitor's coil or a degaussing ring). Shadow mask damage?
Thin, light or dark vertical bars are generally caused by bad video ram or other bad component on the game board. If it’s a MVS, try a different motherboard or another PCB to see if the problem persists.
It’s also probably smart to recap the chassis if this hasn’t been done in a while.
 
Today was house call - round 2.
The “patient“ was a lovely Naomi Universal with a Tosh tube and a recaped Nanao MS-2932 chassis.
Just to be on the thorough side, I hooked it up to my trusty B&K 467 to do some test.

Guns definitely needed som TLC even though the tube was from August 1999.
First time I have seen the red gun in better condition than the green and blue.
Lets give it a massage!
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After a quick clean and balance both the green and blue gun got a great boost.
Everything in the green with great tracking and no shorts.

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Hooked up the chassis and fired up a Naomi Testgrid.
Needs more OCD. Lets make it pretty!

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After Messing with the convergence rings, flyback and doing the colors from scratch, this Naomi produced one hell of a picture!
15khz will always looks sharper than 31khz in my opinion , but damn those colors pop!
Happy owner and a happy Naomi Universal for years to come.
Good shit!
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I got a lot of request lately regarding help with calibration of CRT's.

Since Norway usually is pretty far away from most people, I can also offer my services by facetime/Skype etc so I can assist you in real time.
Would love to travel to everyone and fix it for you, but as a family man I don't have an abundance of time available

I think most arcade owners can do a decent calibration with some basic tips & tricks, the right tools, practice and a friendly Buddyc to guide you through the process.
CRT Sherpa? Yup. That's me!

I can help you get started and answer most questions you have regarding CRT safety, monitor basics + more.
Send me a PM and we can work out the details together.


This quote fits both arcade calibration and my profile picture :D
"If you give a man a fish, you feed him for a day. If you teach a man to fish, you feed him for a lifetime."
 
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