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Official Interest list for Namco NA System Multi by Hammy (PCB design by Caius Arcade Repairs & Engineering)

Hammy said:
5AM finish here, was way too late for me but did watch it all live whilst doing some other bits.
Nice to see some long ish play on it and also learned it's possible to slap the refs on tennis!

To answer a few things:

1: Glitch on emeraldia is known and is caused by bad PRG rom burns or bad contact on those 4, try re-seating them or re-burning just those.
2: Super world court was not on SNES but was enhanced slightly and released as Smash court tennis on the PS1.
3: 4 player mode can be switched on or off on most games, they all need setting up in the test mode. The 4th dipswitch toggles between "configs" so its possible to make blanket settings for 2 profiles. High scores saved so @rogersta now has a lot of ASS to beat, quite funny!
4: Hopefully the puzzlers grow on you, 2 player mode ramps up the fun a bit more, to be fair - most of the games on here are best in multiplayer.

5: Regarding update roms.... I was almost ready to send out the new set and then this got dumped:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJ8b5fy6nJg


Sadly it's not up and running yet so not sure if it can be included.
Click to expand...
Thanks Hammy, it was cool to really check out this Multi.
There's some pretty fine games on this unit.

I'll check the seating on the PRG roms. Thanks for the tip.
Nice note on the 2 Player settings.
I'll keep that in mind when I'm messing with the board this week and see how that works.

It's REALLY great it stores the scores for each game.
Also, on my stream I test to see if games have "ASS Protection".
It's a running joke to see if the censors in boards will kick the name back.
Rogesta certainly does have a lot of ASS to beat.
 
Hello guys, anyone knows what part reference are TR6 TR7 and TR8 on NA-1 Cosmo Gang ? It's a transistor that's failing on the green video line near the jamma edge, i'd like to replace it but don't know which one to order.

It's marked UT6

Screenshot_20220602-150050_Gallery.jpg



Found this reference but just want to make sure

2SC4555/UT6/UT7 SOT-323​

Cheers
 
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archimage said:
Hello guys, anyone knows what part reference are TR6 TR7 and TR8 on NA-1 Cosmo Gang ? It's a transistor that's failing on the green video line near the jamma edge, i'd like to replace it but don't know which one to order.
Click to expand...
If the transistor does not fix it i did a video about repair of the RGB section ages ago, the DAC / pallet ram can go bad too.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ciNZElzB35c
 
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OK, looking for advice on cleaning up the caps on a NA2 motherboard- specifically the solder pads. I swear these Namco pcb's make me feel like I have never soldered before. I don't know if it's the years of corrosion from the caps on the capacitor solder pads or what, but for some reason I am having a hell of a time getting solder to stick to even replace the damn caps. Even melting that old solder is tuff. I used Deoxit to clean the board and then went over it with ipo. I use mg chemicals 60/40 solder and some quality flux. On my first NA1 motherboard, I ended up f'ing some pads up because I couldn't get solder to stick- going over the pads with the iron doesn't take long to mess up the pad so there isn't anything left for the solder to stick to. On the pad(s) I was working on, I just can't get the solder to stick to adhere the capacitor. I have been soldering for years, but must be missing something with these boards. I really don't want to mess this 2nd motherboard up. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 
I have to agree with you, fuck Namco's choices during these years on caps and PCB design.
 
-Ace- said:
OK, looking for advice on cleaning up the caps on a NA2 motherboard- specifically the solder pads. I swear these Namco pcb's make me feel like I have never soldered before. I don't know if it's the years of corrosion from the caps on the capacitor solder pads or what, but for some reason I am having a hell of a time getting solder to stick to even replace the damn caps. Even melting that old solder is tuff. I used Deoxit to clean the board and then went over it with ipo. I use mg chemicals 60/40 solder and some quality flux. On my first NA1 motherboard, I ended up f'ing some pads up because I couldn't get solder to stick- going over the pads with the iron doesn't take long to mess up the pad so there isn't anything left for the solder to stick to. On the pad(s) I was working on, I just can't get the solder to stick to adhere the capacitor. I have been soldering for years, but must be missing something with these boards. I really don't want to mess this 2nd motherboard up. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
Solder wont stick to corrosion and if the board is too far gone that could be your issue. There's a definitely a trick to it. I had similar issues the first one I tried but I've recapped 8 or 10 of these boards now and got it down to a pretty easy work flow.

Start by removing ALL of the caps, even if they look ok next you want to completely cover the effected area with Flux. Specifically an SMD cleaning flux. I used RMA-223 or NC-559-ASM per the recommendation of some others here on the forum. put the flux down and heat it up, be sure to touch the pads with the iron so that they're heated. the flux will bond and lift out the corrosive elements. you'll know it's working if the flux darkens and starts to look like molasses. Clean up the flux and solder with solder wick, then you go over it with IPA to flush away the remaining dirty flux.

Repeat this process until the flux remains clear when heated, then you'll know you got all of the garbage out of it.
you can see this technique in action here (along with some much more advanced techniques)
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vx50YtEC2S8
 
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Excellent, thanks. That's the kind of info I was looking for.
 
OK, now that I am making headway with the caps, these SMD's at R29 and R30. Are they critical to the pcb working and what is their function? There are a couple traces between them that are not making a connection. Was considering replacing them and patching the connection(s if necessary). How do you spec them for ordering from somewhere like Digi-key?
NA2.jpg
 
yeah definitely meter out and confirm any and all suspect traces.

as for SMD resistors, I HIGHLY recommend buying yourself a "sample book" or two: https://www.amazon.com/Yobett-Value...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

it's only a few bucks more than buying a handful of resistors once you've paid for shipping and it's nice to have available when you need one.

just make sure you're buying the right (dimensional) size since SMD caps come in many sizes. https://www.newmatik.com/knowledge-base/KB-EN-00928/resistor-case-sizes
 
Thanks for the link(s)- placed an order for the 'sample book". Gotta love Amazon, should be here tomorrow. Yes, I have a couple traces in this area that are bad. Any specific type wire to patch these, or just the tiniest I can find? As far as the vias go, do I just do the same "cleaning" I have done with the caps, etc? So far, those are all making connections, but if I run into one that's not, is it the same "patching" as the trace work- run a tiny wire from the via to wherever it goes?
 
Does anyone have a list of the dip settings per game. Went through the entire thread but perhaps I missed it.
 
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