Ziggy Cheetos Dust
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Thanks. Much appreciated @rocolowithoutbrakes
Aero City - flooded, forgotten, found.
- Thread starter Ziggy Cheetos Dust
- Start date
Ziggy Cheetos Dust
Champion
Today I installed that stereo harness. Becasue of the excess harness diameter I had to pull out some adhesive clamps on the inside of the cab and put some bigger ones in. I attached the control panel tray and made a little bracket/panel to hold the amp and volume knob. I also put in the repro headphone board that’s available - but won’t plug it in - as my understanding is that it’s speaker level power coming in and too much for headphones. Hence my goal to make the transformer board to bring the speaker level down. I’ll get to this later though.
Here’s the tray looking mint.
Here’s what I made the amp bracket out of.
With mounting and volume knob holes drilled.
Here’s the tray looking mint.
Here’s what I made the amp bracket out of.
With mounting and volume knob holes drilled.
Ziggy Cheetos Dust
Champion
I snipped off all the through-hole legs and pins on the solder side to prevent shorting on the cabinet and stuck down a fat piece of adhesive foam.
Looking good here. The extra hole houses a tab that stops the amp from rotating inside the tray. I might cover it with a decal. It’s not centred because I might put something else in there one day.
With the knob. I’m going to get a nice aluminium one tomorrow.
And all tucked in nicely.
Looking good here. The extra hole houses a tab that stops the amp from rotating inside the tray. I might cover it with a decal. It’s not centred because I might put something else in there one day.
With the knob. I’m going to get a nice aluminium one tomorrow.
And all tucked in nicely.
Ziggy Cheetos Dust
Champion
The cabling pretty much sorted out.
Ziggy Cheetos Dust
Champion
I plugged the machine in and we have good 5v power for my little light tube. I’m now ready to clean up the crt and install it.
Stokers
Professional
The Aero is a great looking cab, great stuff.
Ziggy Cheetos Dust
Champion
Today I washed the tube. Using Nifty and Simple Green and depending on the area being cleaned I used a small art paint brush, a regular paint brush, a kitchen scrubbing brush and a cloth to remove the black grime. Afterwards I blasted air on it from my Aldi shop vac in reverse mode. I did this for about 15 minutes up and in the yoke area. I then left it in the sun for a few hours. I removed the chassis that works fine, but wanted to put in a refurbed one I got from Jomac while I’m doing this detailed resto. I’ve sent him an email because the neckboard doesn’t have a certain capacitor on it and I’m not sure if that’s a problem or something that was deleted on later boards? I also rotated the monitor 90° right. Hopefully that’s the right way for Raiden Fighters. I should have checked 
Ziggy Cheetos Dust
Champion
I also checked that everything is grounded okay, both power switches work and that I have good power - 100v, 5v and 12v. 5v and 12v were spot-on and I’m assuming 97.2v is good enough.
NFGx
Grand Master
In my Astro, the monitor only rotates one way. The two bars around the chassis are not centred on the tube, they're off to one side. So if you rotate it the wrong way, they're too high and will interfere with the back of the cab. So if you made it fit, you rotated it the right way, probably.
I'm not 100% sure they're offset on yours too, but based on the pics I'm like 64% sure.
I'm not 100% sure they're offset on yours too, but based on the pics I'm like 64% sure.
Ziggy Cheetos Dust
Champion
I know what you mean. It was the same on my Exceleenas with the MS9 - I even re-jigged the frame position so I could rotate the monitor the other way - but the Aero frame is more or less centred and it looked like it could put in in either way. I’ll have to wait and see when I do a test.
Edit. From memory there’s a switch to flip the orientation anyway.
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You’re in the home stretch! Great progress 
Mrhide
Legendary
Damn fine work.
Ziggy Cheetos Dust
Champion
Am I correct that in your resto thread the monitor was rotated the other way?You’re in the home stretch! Great progress
Yes, mine is rotated counter-clockwise. A majority of the vertical arcade games are rotated CCW. Namco games are mostly clockwise, though. Among others.
But it really doesn't matter if you install a yoke flip switch that changes the polarity of your yoke connectors. I have one in my tate Aero and my Windy and it helps a lot when swapping out boards that have different orientations.
Ziggy,
Did you happen to repro the sticker that goes on the base interior in front of the jamma connector? Same goes the the PSU button label strip?
Mine were damaged - it'd be awesome to get copies of these.
-Robert
Did you happen to repro the sticker that goes on the base interior in front of the jamma connector? Same goes the the PSU button label strip?
Mine were damaged - it'd be awesome to get copies of these.
-Robert
I plugged the machine in and we have good 5v power for my little light tube. I’m now ready to clean up the crt and install it.
Ziggy Cheetos Dust
Champion
Okay cheers. Looking at it today I thought there might not be enough room for the bottom (right) of the frame to fit against the prop for the glass screen - but obviously there is if yours is orientated that way.
Ziggy Cheetos Dust
Champion
I scanned one and took a photo of the other and then had them re done by Mikonos (Zona Arcade) in Spain as part of the whole machines art package. So I don’t have copies to send I’m sorry. Here are the links if you want to order them.
"AERO CITY CABINET" (SEGA) All Arcade Artwork Decals and Small Stickers in Zona Arcade Site
https://zonaarcade.forumcommunity.net/?t=63237781#entry468592366
"AERO CITY CABINET" (SEGA) All Arcade Artwork Decals and Small Stickers in Zona Arcade Site - page 2
https://zonaarcade.forumcommunity.net/?t=63237781&st=15#entry468648318
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Ziggy Cheetos Dust
Champion
Today was a case of two steps forward and one step back. I fitted the hinged front glass panel frame and hinged control panel and started preparing the glass to paint the black border on it again. That’s going to be a bit fiddly but hopefully acrylic enamel will stick okay. My bezel isn’t perfect and has a few cracks in the corners which I glued a while back. I’ve cleaned it as much as possible from years of having various bits of sticky tape and whatnot on it - as well as some scratches too. I polished it carefully with Novus 2 and it looked better. Then I gave it a wipe with some lithium grease to kind of soften the appearance - and it looked decent. I tried some silicon grease and that was even better. When I put it in place there’s quite a gap from the bezel to the screen. About 8mm. I can’t recall if it was like this before or whether there were washers packing it out and bringing the screen forward. In any case I’m going to want to pack it out with some washers because the gap is too big. Taking the monitor out again with the glass frame and control panel in place is just too awkward and risks damage - so I’ll do that when I’ve got more patience.
To finish the day with a win I cut some 12mm plywood to mount the game board on. I would have liked marine ply but it was too expensive - I had to buy a big piece that I didn’t need.
This is the glass with the black border removed. It was all funky from the original grommets deteriorating over time.
The glass screen frame and control panel housing fitted. They’re a tight fit where they join because of the powder coat but look good.
To finish the day with a win I cut some 12mm plywood to mount the game board on. I would have liked marine ply but it was too expensive - I had to buy a big piece that I didn’t need.
This is the glass with the black border removed. It was all funky from the original grommets deteriorating over time.
The glass screen frame and control panel housing fitted. They’re a tight fit where they join because of the powder coat but look good.
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No worries! Being provided a lead to maybe purchase them is great. I'll check it out.
Ziggy Cheetos Dust
Champion
Well today was a test. Who would have thought that restoring a Candy cab could be physically and emotionally challenging. A couple of bad decisions and some impatience led to a frustration and stressful day. It all worked out though and I learned some lessons.
To partly address the bezel gap I decided to put some door/window seal rubber around the edge that faces the monitor. It worked well, albeit the bends in the corners lifted. I ended up putting a tiny amount of super glue in the corners and it held. Forgive the dust. The cracks (glued at the back) I’ll have to live with. Anyone who has dealt with these bezels knows how flimsy they are.
To partly address the bezel gap I decided to put some door/window seal rubber around the edge that faces the monitor. It worked well, albeit the bends in the corners lifted. I ended up putting a tiny amount of super glue in the corners and it held. Forgive the dust. The cracks (glued at the back) I’ll have to live with. Anyone who has dealt with these bezels knows how flimsy they are.