Heat Set inserts - anyone using these for their 3D printed parts?

Have been working to level up my 3D printing game with better gear/finish/materials recently and one thing that seems to really help is heat-set inserts.

A lot of the "serious" projects with 3D printed parts use them for durability, and precision. I got the idea from this LDO guide
https://docs.ldomotors.com/guides/heatset_insert_tool_guide#

I'm loving the idea, but not so much the implementation Hakko FX888D has been EOL for a while now, and Aliexpress clones are clustered at the bottom end of the market.

Anyone else making parts with heat-set inserts? If so would love to know what you're using and how it works

Yes, I use this press:
FYSETC Heat Set Insert Press
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQ7xC5C

For the things I print, it works good and was cheap

I used the following for the first time inserting heat set inserts recently with my Hakko FX-888D and the tips fit perfectly on my iron:

ruthex 7x Soldering Tips/Heat-Set Insert Tips - for Thread Inserts M2 / M2.5 / M3 / M4 / M5 / M6 / M8 - #2-56 / #4-40 / #8-32/ #10-24 1/4" and Soldering Iron Adapter 900M / T18
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CDBSGSXY

ruthex M3 Threaded Inserts Short - 100 Pieces RX-M3Sx4.0 Brass Heat Set Insert for Plastic Parts - Metric knurled Nuts - Insert by Heat into 3D Printing Components
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZHSGHXD

ruthex M4 Threaded Inserts Short - 50 Pieces RX-M4Sx4.0 Brass Heat Set Insert for Plastic Parts - Metric knurled Nuts - Insert by Heat into 3D Printing Components
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MTTC7S9
ruthex M2 Threaded Inserts - 70 Pieces RX-M2x4 Brass Heat Set Insert for Plastic Parts - Metric knurled Nuts - Insert by Heat into 3D Printing Components
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088QJG676

Here's a related thread I created where I used them:

I use them a lot, probably a third of the things I print use one or more. I just use my normal soldering iron and eyeball it. It's not at all difficult to put them in straight, just make the tops flush with the surrounding plastic and done.

I thought about building a press but that only works if the bottom of the object is flat, so I'd probably end up eyeballing it anyway.

I use them SOMETIMES. in general I try to avoid adding parts to my 3D printed stuff. to me the perfect 3D print is one that is ready to use right out of the machine.

However, if you're building something where the screws will be added and removed regularly, or if you want to really torque down the screws because it's a high-stress item then inserts a good idea.

Also there are a lot of CRAP inserts out there, the ones I think are best are the ones that @kuze mentioned above and in his thread.

Yup, anything that requires threads gets a heat set or at least a nut on the other side.

I recommend this company for the inserts (you can buy direct):
https://www.spirol.com/product/threaded-inserts-for-plastics/heat-ultrasonic-inserts/
As the MFG, Spirol also has a substantial library of helpful information about heat set inserts.

I use a spare Hakko FX888 with these:
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/heat-set-insert-tips/

And I have grown in love with this pin vise to make things easier for small parts:
https://www.usagundamstore.com/prod...paign=Google+Shopping&stkn=2ca78127395a&gQT=1
They also make a handheld variant that can be very helpful.

If you're doing serious quantities, there are some excellent DYI heat set press plans online (mostly printed parts and t-slot). Then again, if I were doing quantities that required a press I'd buy something more professional.

I don't bother with a press, but I do use the actual insert tips for my iron, I think they make it much easier to put them in straight and also not get the conical tip stuck in them.

Yup, I use heat set inserts for a decent amount of stuff that I've designed. The JAMMA expander case I put on Thingiverse/Printables a while back used them.

Sometimes I would use a longer bolt and have hole in the shape of a nut on the other side instead in order to avoid inserts, mostly because I feel like they aren't that convenient if you intend to release the design for public use.

Overall, it's a useful option to keep around, although not all inserts a good as mentioned before. There are plenty of videos out there that explore the performance of different inserts like CNC Kitchen. View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-UF4tv3Hvc

Aurich said:

not get the conical tip stuck in them.

Click to expand...

Yeah this happened to me a couple of times until I learned the gentle touch. Gravity alone is enough force to get them to settle into place, any more and there's a risk it's coming out with the iron. Not ideal.

NFGx said:

Yeah this happened to me a couple of times until I learned the gentle touch. Gravity alone is enough force to get them to settle into place, any more and there's a risk it's coming out with the iron. Not ideal.

Click to expand...

Yeah it's not really a big deal if you're just trying it out, but it really is a lot easier to get a cheap pack of the proper tips if you find you're doing it more often.

I don't use them all the time but they do have their place. I made one a while back which was loosely based off of one of Vector3Ds earlier versions.



I used a linear rail on the front to give flexibility for mounting other tools.

I would definitely pick up some of the tips rather than a conical iron. They transfer heat much more readily and the smaller diameter helps to align the insert with your iron which is really useful whether you're using a press or not.

I use the type with the helical splines. They install beautifully I've never had an issue with them.

If you've got a lot of parts to make where the hole for the insert isn't naturally perpendicular to the iron then you can always make fixtures etc to align them, even something super simple like this makes inserting them really quick and accurate.



I found another use for mine recently by printing an adaptor bracket to hold a UV lamp for curing UV resin/glue.



TRON MUSIC INTENSIFIES

I made posts for my Jaleco Pony Mark IV to keep the two halves together using threaded inserts. Just a good ole soldering iron and a dream and I got those bad boys in. I plan on releasing the 3d file once I get the Pony put back together and test everything.